Nissan Pathfinder

Directly under the throttle body.

not positive about this but you may want to check the grounds where they are attached to the body. you may have to replace the wire ends on a clean spot (bare metal) and re-screw them down....

1. jack the vehicle up on both sides, use jack stands if possible.

2. Remove Passanger front tire, along with plastic splash shield

3. Drain coolant

4. With serpentine belt still installed, loosen the 3 bolts on the water pump pully, don't take them all the way off, just loosen them.

5. Use a 14mm wrench to reduce tention on the serpentine belt enough

so you can slide the belt off

6. Remove the water pump pully bolts, remove pully, or let it rest on the

pump shaft.

7. Remove water pump housing bolts (6 of them) and discard the gasket

8. reverse procedure to reinstall new water pump

remove serpentine belt center bolt in idler remove, and install new pulleyand rplace belt the way it came off

usually 5 years

You need to get your control arms/bushings replaced. It sways at speeds on or above 60mph. I just had it done to my 97 pathfinder. It is a problem that they have. boo :(

Buy a split boot from the parts store- that way you won't have to remove the shaft.

As long as you have the half shaft out, why not replace it since there is probably some damage to it from having a damaged boot?

I AM GETTING A OBD CODE ERROR FOR MY 2000 NISSAN QUEST , PO141 AND PO325 ??? HOW DO I FIX IT..

Probably at the lower rear section of engine - follow the + battery cable Probably at the lower rear section of engine - follow the + battery cable

This refers to the second oxygen sensor on Bank 1. Bank 1 is the same side of the engine that cylinder 1 is on, the very front cylinder on the drivers side. It could need to be replaced, or there could be a short to voltage on the O2 signal circuit, or it could also be that the connector has been corroded, and needs to just be cleaned. I believe this code is the same for all vehicles.

The light comes on when the computer senses a problem. You have to check what code is stored in the computer and go from there. Some auto parts stores will check the code free for you.

To change the oil pan gasket, jack up the car and make sure it is secure before you get underneath, look to where the oilpan is (look for the drain bolt) all around the upper of the oilpan there are bolts (approx 8) empty the oil thru the plug, then remove these bolts, the pan will come off and there is the gasket on the outer edge of the pan. you must also remove a section of the exhaust to drop the oil pan and there is also a crossmember that runs front to back on the car you must remove

actuall, it may depend on the engine you have. on the 3.3 there are 4! one on each side, fairly easy to get to, in the collecter area of the exhast manifold. another on each side after the small catalytic convertor, and before the two pipes come together.these are up behind a frame type crosspiece, and very hard to get to.

Not a terribly difficult job, but takes a while to get to. You'll need a power steering pump pulley puller and a combination of metric and standard wrenches, sockets, and a set of vice grips. Parts needed are a water pump and gasket, any additional hoses and hose clamps if you're replacing those, and a new thermostat is you are replacing that (good idea to replace it all since you're already in there, especially if the car has overheated). Parts price list: Water Pump : @ $40 new Throttle body gasket : @$10 Thermostat : a few bucks gasket sealant : a few bucks Replacement hoses and clamps : $20-30 depending on what you replace. New coolant/radiator flush kit : $20 1. Drain the system of coolant using the petcock located at the bottom passenger side of the radiator. 2. Unscrew the air intake assembly from the throttle body and the airbox and remove from car. 3. If you don't plan on replacing the thermostat at the same time, skip this step. The thermostat housing is located directly below the throttle body and is a paint to get to unless you remove the throttle body. Remove the cover to the throttle cable assembly, disconnect the throttle cables (there are two of them), and unscrew the throttle body. Remove any hoses attached to the throttly body and remove it. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the two bolts from the thermostat housing and lift the housing to expose the thermostat. The new thermostat just drops in where the old one went. There is no gasket, as this thermostat utilizes a rubber seal. Reattacht he thermostat housing. 4. Remove the drivebelt. After you have removed the drivebelt, remove the belt tensioner as well as there is abolt behind this that you will need to access. 5. Remove the power steering pump pulley with the puller. Also remove the pulley on the water pump. Since the pulley will turn, it helps if you have an oil filter strap wrench and a friend to keep the pulley immobile while you lossen the bolts. 6. Unplug the spark plugs (taking note of where they go) and unplug the electrical connectors from the coil pack assembly. Remove the bottom coil pack to access a hidden bolt to the power steering pump bracket. 7. Remove the power steering pump bracket. This will come off as one piece with the coil pack assembly attached. 8. Remove the heater core bypass hose that goes to the water pump. 9. Remove the water pump. After you have removed all of the bolts, you may need to persuade the pump by tapping it with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, you can place a block of wood on the pump and hit the block of wood with a hammer. 10. Clean the engine where the water pump will attach of any residue and gasket material. Be sure not to scratch the mating surface here. Carb cleaner and a rag works well for this. 11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Now is also a good time to flush your radiator, replace the hoses with new ones, and also inspect and replace (if necessary) the coolant temperature sensor located directly behind the coil packs. I think that covers just about everything you have to remove. Might have missed an inconsequential item here or there. Make sure everything is plugged back in (coil packs, coolant temp sensor, IAC valve, TPS sensor) and that all hoses are reattached correctly. When you refill the system, let it run for awhile with the radiator cap off and the heat blowing full blast to remove any air bubbles from the system. Keep an eye on the temp gauge.

there are two horns. they are behind the grill assembily. you have to take the plastic pieces off above the grill and its down in there. hope this helped

I changed the ATF on my 2004 Odyssey without much labor. Fortunately, I have a lift in my garage. The drain plug is a 3/8" drive socket, so no special tool needed for that. The plug was magnetised and had some filings on it, probably the first time it was changed (68,000 miles on car). Once drained, replace plug, no filter to deal with (at least that was what the dealer told me).....The dipstick hole is quite small, unlike the big filler tubes on the older transmissions, and quite unaccessable, even if you did pass a thin tube down with a funnel, the dealer said that was not a good way to add or replace fluid since it may introduce air into the trans. Down behind the dipstick where the brake lines converge is an 18mm hex bolt, up close it has a stamp right on it "ATF" (good clue) You need a long extension with a universal joint socket and remove that plug. There is a thick washer under it. I used a regular transmission type funnel which I added a length of clear plastic tubing (left over from a medical chest tube) and connected it to the funnel with a Christmas tree adapter ( I love creating stuff like this). Again, the dealer sold me 3 qts. of Honda(matic) ATF, the info with the vehicle says it will take 3.5 qts., I added the fluid, ran the motor and checked the stick, it was barely up to the first dot (of 2), I went back to the dealer and got another qt., I added 1/2 qt., it barely moved the marking on the stick. You don't want to overfill the trans either. Don't forget to reinstall the plug and washer!

lift the boot, and grab a screw driver and unscrew the light and then at the back of the light twist the bulb out and replace and twist it back in afterwards.

Fuse, relay, broken wire, switch, with fuse most likely.

The Nissan 370z is rear wheel drive.

Mazda recommends replacing the timing belt every 60,000 miles. If you didn't do it at 60,000, DO IT NOW. Not sure if this is a zero-clearance engine, but I don't believe it is.

The cost of a Nissan Sentra clock varies slightly by the year of the car and retailer. As of 2014 the clocks range in price of 24.99 to 49.99.

Sounds like the compressor is shot and it would be best to replace both. Unfortunately when the compressor goes bad it sends metal trash throughout the system. If you replace the compressor with out having the system flushed clean (which is almost impossible to do) the trash in the system will eventually destroy the new compressor.

There are probably a million reasons why your pathfinder won't start. One that I ran into was a faulty key. Each key is microchipped to work with the computer. Mine wasn't "flashed" properly.. The truck would turn over but not start.

ok..first off, this is much more difficult that it should be. I was quoted $550 to have a mechanic do this job. Considering that the starter itself is only $100, that means the labor alone would cost $450. I laughed at the machanic and told him that I would do it myself. After about five hours under the rig, I began to wonder if the $550 would have been a bargin. ok, lets get to it...Do yourself a favor. The day before you start this job, get a can of PB Blaster and spray the hell out of the exhaust manifold heat shield mounting bolts. This heat shield must come off. The bolts are probably corroded/rusted in place by years of high temperatures and filth. Before you start the job, start the rig up and let it get warm. This allows the manifold to expand and the PB Blaster to penetrate the bolts holes. IMPORTANT: You DO NOT want to break these 10MM bolts! Once you have removed the exhaust manifold heat sheild, you can get to the starter solinoid and the electrical connections. First, disconnect the battery and then the two wires that connect to the starter. Next, disconnect the wire that connects to the oil pressure sending unit. (located just above the starter and to the left of the oil filter.) Next, you must remove the exhaust pipe heat shield. This is a real sun of a bittch..There are three hose clamp like devices that hold the two halves of the shield together. Chances are, the heads of those 10MM bolts are facing the firewall making it impossible to access with a socket. I got mine out by using a 10MM open end..having to turn it over each time I gripped the bolt just to get about a 1/16th of a turn each time. Finally I was able to get them loose enough that I was able to spin them around so I could access the bolt heads a little easier. The remaining mounting bolts present only a small amout of discomfort and frustration.Once you have this shield off, you can get to the upper starter mount bolt with a 14MM socket and swivel extention. the transmission cooler lines and the transmission linkage will fight you each step of the way but it can be removed. The bottom starter bolt is a touch more difficult as the crossmember and the cooler lines prevent you from getting a socket on the bolt. I used a 14MM offset box end wrench to get it off. You will probably need some sort of breaker bar to gain leverage because the bolts are on tight! Next, drain your oil and remove the oil filter because there is no way to remove the starter with the oil filter in place. (this is ignorant and whoever designed the way this is set up should be executed). Once you have completed all of these steps, you can then snake the starter out of the vehicle from the top. You will need to wrestle it past your fuel filter, your fuel lines and various assorted bullshiit to get it out but it it can be done. If you can get the dammmed thing out, it becomes obvious what it takes to get it back in...basically just reverse the tasks and you'll have it..Good luck!...and have fun making up all the new cuss words that you will use while doing this miserable task...