Pulleys

The belt tensioner is right in front of your alternator. You will see a big long screw going down in front of the alternator and to the left and underneath the screw you will see a bolt. Loosen the bolt and then loosen the screw and the belt should come off when you loosen it enough. Just did it not long ago on mine, very simple process.

I have the same situation with mine.The only thing I can narrow it down to is that the fuel pump is making that noise.Mine has been doing it fir four years now and it seems to be an inconvience instead of a problem

Remove belt.

Remove the bolt and then pull the pulley off.

Put new pulley in position.

Put the belt back on.

step 1 disconnect neg battery end. 8mm wrench will work perfect Step 2 jack and support pass side front so you are able to remove pass side front tire .remove tire,you should see a plastic shield with two Phillips screws (plastic) remove them step 3 remove serp belt, once belt is removed use an impact to remove crank bolt.once crank bolt is removed, you will need a balancer remover tool (can rent from parts house or buy) install crank puller and use impact on bolt end to pull crank pulley off p.s. use some wd40 to help things move better and take your time good luck

I have a 98 Nissan SX that should be real similar. You have to first take the other belt off by loosening the top reae pulley and letting it slide down to release tension on that belt. The tensioning belt is on the firewall side. Once that belt is out of the way you can start on the alternator belt. Loosen the center bolt on the tensioner pulley, located high between the alternator and the crank. Then you should find the tightening bolt in front, below the alternator. I believe it's a long 5/16 bolt sitting at about a 45 degree angle. Back that off to let the pulley go up and release the tension on the belt. Then it should slip off and the new one should slip back in place. Then just retighten everything. Hint - to get to the pulley center bolt you will probably need to pull the passenger wheel and plastic splash guard.

On my 1990 Tercel it turns counter-clockwise. It's in there tight, but mine came out. Spray some penetrating oil on it first and let it soak. You don't want to break it off when it comes out. Especially if it's been in there for awhile.

No. But it's tight.

it would be a 19mm or a 22mm

These belt/tensioner questions sure come up a lot! I can't tell you exactly where the tensioner is on your car, but it's usually easy to find. It will probably be the only thing that looks like a pulley that has a smooth, polished finish. On my '96 2.2L, it's located to the rear, and slightly down from, the alternator. It's been suggested here, that if you push on the belt (I'd guess wherever there is a long run between pulleys) you can see the tensioner deflect. I haven't tried that yet. I hope this helps a little! FriPilot

no.

remove neg cable remove sensor that is located on top of alternator, move to one side still connected. remove power and reg cables on alt. loosen tension bolt remove bolt at bottom of alt. can do it from top behind alt. rewmove tension bolt and belt,work altr loose thru top between gas line and sensor that you moved, replace the same way

Lots of noise or the belt jumping off.

This all depends on what type of supercharger it is. If you have an Eaton supercharger it is possible that it might be a pressed on pulley. If this is the case then you will need a pulley puller. If the supercharger is a Vortech, Paxton, or ProCharger they all use key ways. So all you need to do is take the bolt off and the pulley might come off. Some times the pulley will not slide off so a pulley puller will work. Or you can heat up the shaft which will cause the pulley to expand and it will then slide right off. DO NOT use a screw driver or any force to pry it off. This can cause damage to the bearings.

This is located just left of center halfway down the pulley side of the engine. For an even better idea, look at the belt mapping sticker under the hood of the car, it will be pointed out as to it's location. To replace, pull the front right wheel, remove the 2 piece mud guards behind it. You'll be looking at the bottom bolt which you can remove very quickly. The top bolt you will have to work a bit more for, it's above. I removed mine working from the top down with an offset metric box wrench. Once it was broken loose it spun free by hand. Good luck.

1- telescopic boom

2- lattice boom

You can purchase a puller used for this purpose from most auto parts stores.

The easiest thing to do is use and impact gun if you have the space (and the tools). That should break it loose without having to hold the pulley. There is also a tool that plugs into the bell housing with a tooth that catches the fly wheel

If you don't have an impact wrench or the above mentioned tool, a method I have used is to take nylon rope and loop it around the crankshaft pully in a way so that it cinches tighter when it is pulled on. Then I tie the end of the rope to anything solid nearby. When you crank on the bolt with a breaker bar, it tightens the rope, holding the pully in place.

If the pump has a removable pulley, then you can replace it.

With an impact gun.

It must be pressed off. Any machine shop will be able to do this. Although there is a relatively cheap tool on the market for pulling pullies from PS pumps (yes, the tool is that specific), most auto-parts places will lend you them for free if you leave a deposit, return it undamaged and in a reasonable amount of time. They do not always work, especially if the pulley is seized on (spraying it with WD 40 a few times over the course of 24 hours prior to the removal helps). Also, the center bolt on the tool is about 8 inches long, and when in the tool, the overall length is over 10 inches. In some vehicles, especially snub-nosed vans, you might have to remove the rad to have room to use this tool. Cutting it off becomes a feasible option; if you wind up having to cut this thing off, a replacement pulley is about 20 bucks.

You will need a gear puller to pull it off . Sometimes you can take a hammer and tap it off but usually will not work .

Get yourself an E Z OUT and a Helicoil. The E Z Out is like a drill bit that drills into the broken bolt and then when you reverse it, it grabs the bolt and will bring the bolt out. Take the broken bolt end to see what size you need. You can drill the bolt out completely but then you will need to tap threads into the block using a tap. AMKE SURE YOU DO NOT DRILL TOO FAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is a product call a Helicoil where you can drill out the hole and then insert a helicoil which threads inot the hole and then your new bolt will thread into the helicoil. All is not lost.......sometimes the biggest headache is getting enough room to drill and tap. When you get the broken bolt out, I suggest you use a torque wrench when you install the next one, and if the bolt and the block are made from different metals, I suggest some antiseize on the bolts threads to keep this from happening again.

The pully is pressed on, so you will need to remove pump from vehicle and have the correct tools to remove the pully from the pump.

I just did this today. I have a 1994 F-150 300-6. I purchased a pulley puller from an auto parts store and pulled the pulley off before removing the pump (took 2 people for me!). This also required removing the radiator fan shield to get clearance for the puller. You cannot remove the pump first because there is not clearace to remove the bolts. I chipped the pulley in a few places fighting the bolts, so be gentle. I didn't get an installer, so needless to say, I haven't put the new pump on (as far as I can see, its impossible without one). I'll update as soon as I get it on! As a side note, the pulley has to be ordered from Ford directly (unless someone is better than me...can't find it online), so again, be gentle.

I think Ford does the same as everyone else, in that the shaft is threaded, in which case you can just run a bolt, and tighten it to re-install the pulley. If not put the pulley on first, and find some very thin wrenches to tighten those bolts. In 30 years I have never pulled the pulley off on the car, so, I know it can be done. If need be bolt the brackets onto the pump before installation, then install pulley, then re-install pump.The reason you have to order pulley from Ford, is because it is not supposed to be taken off. If you want one cheaper, and quicker, go to your nearest high performanbce store. We run custom pulleys on race motors all the time. They will probably have one in stock. Dont overcomplicate things.

this seems to be a popular problem, so please check some of the boards with the same name, atleast one of the 140 must have an answer for you