Pulleys

I found instuctions at autozone.com, and at my library in Chiltons in the reference section.

well trans fluid in all the cylinders will work or a rebuild

You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with the right info...make copies as they are usually only in the REFERENCE section....good luck:)

Unbolt it, pretty easy just one bolt in the middle of the arm...

Steeda hands down. They actually worked hand in hand with Ford to develop these, so they are made to work perfectly. There is a lot of other aftermarket pulleys out there, but they can cause the belt to miss align, which can cause a check engine light or damage to the crankshaft

This reply will begin by letting you know there is a lot more info about Timing belt issues included in this response. If you are removing the crank pulley, use this extra info as well. The way to remove the pulley is with a special tool called a "crankshaft pulley puller" available for rent or purchase from auto parts stores ($20-30). There are two bolts you thread into the two holes (10 mm?) in the spokes of the pulley, then the large center bolt is tightened against the crankshaft (protect the crank threads if necessary) until the pulley slides off. You can also use a three-jaw gear puller, which is commonly available, but requires a bit more skill and caution to avoid damage to the pulley. Clearance may be an issue with a large puller.

That being said, the most challenging thing is getting the bolt loose that holds on the pulley. It is tightened to a torque of 87 footpounds or so and isn't going to just loosen up easily. This is accomplished with an air or electric impact wrench and a 17 mm impact socket. If you do not have an impact wrench, you can use a large strap wrench (not a pipe wrench or other tool that could damage the pulley) to hold the pulley (all other belts need to be off for this) while countering the breaker bar and 17 mm socket (highly suggest 1/2" drive). I just did one of these today using a large U-bolt over the pulley (well padded to protect grooves) tightened to a two foot piece of slotted Unistrut. The U-bolt was for 5" pipe, therefore it had an open span of 5 and 5/8". The pulley is just under 5 and 1/2", so this was perfect. You could also use a two-hole strap for 5" conduit or Iron pipe bolted with lag bots to a 2x4. Either way yields a tool that is shaped like the letter "P" and you just let the tail of the "P" rest against some sturdy engine or body component while you use two hands on the breaker bar. After removing the pulley, CAREFULLY INSPECT THE TIMING BELT SPROCKET BEHIND THE BELT GUIDE. It can be failing by slipping on the crank and causing timing problems. If there is ANY play in it, REPLACE IT! (You may have to order this from a Toyota dealer. When I needed one, it was not in common stock). Install new timing belt tensioner and belt on sprocket with Crankshaft and camshaft(s) properly aligned. Tension belt properly, double check alignment. Install belt guide on crankshaft, then pulley. When reinstalling the pulley, be careful not to damage it with a hammer. use a block of wood across the face to protect the pulley as you coax it into place by tapping. Torque bolt to spec. Hope this helps!

I don't know about a 92, but my 90 GM GS has no tensioner. Instead the alternator functions as the tensioner. Loosen the top bolt and slide it to the left.

Between the power steering pump and the water pump. The only one of two pulleys that is smooth versus grooved.

The answer in a nutshell is... NO !! Knocking indicates excessive clearances between the rod bearing & crankshaft journals. These two areas will develope an out-of-round condition, wich MUST be machined back to acceptable tolerances. Any competant auto machine shop can perform this for you, & fit new bearings that will last a long time. Just putting new bearings will quite the engine for a short time, but will fail quickly, putting you right back in the same situation in short order! The time and money spent on just new bearings will have been wasted.

Try to replace only bearing #6203 2Z inside of pulley.

remove the window washer and radiator fill bottles by pulling upwards and lay them aside. Remove the serpentine belt. You will see the water pump connected to the large hose going to the radiator. remove and replace.

3 bolts above your oil filter may have to move belt a

Your alternator did it come with a pulley installed ? Or did you have to switch the pulley from the old unit ? Is it the same alternator as the old unit? ( size , number , identifcation markings ) if not this can be your problem .

On some cars, the idler pulley {usually on the belt tensioner) can squeal. If you squirt some WD-40 or similar lubricant on the front of the bearing (engine off), and the noise goes away, it is probably the bearings in the idler pulley. If this is the case, replace the idler pulley, because the noise will come back after the lubricant gets slung out of the bearing.

I'm assuming that you mean the Harmonic Balancer on the Crankshaft?? If so, You have to use a Chain Wrench to hold the pulley from turning while you loosen the bolt. Wrap duct tape around the pulley to not damage the pulley with the chain. Once you remove the bolt, use at least a 5 or 6 inch gear puller. Remember to put the bolt back in a few turns so you have a resting place for the center bolt of the gear puller. Caution: Don't allow the pulley to turn CCW at any time.

Removing the radiator makes life much easier for this job.

It's located on the front of the engine. It's belt pully that isn't "driving" anything. It's just chillin' spinning freely..

Pry up on the tensioner pulley.

It probably is the compressor that is locked up. If it is ok until the a/c is turned on, the compressor is locked up. If it is just the pulley bearing a special puller is required to remove the pulley and bearing.

go to a chevy dealer and im sure they will tell you, for no cost ! maybe they can tell you at auto-zone etc.

You need a special puller for that.Can get for about 25 bucks at an auto store.

While this answer is correct, you probably need more information. For an amateur, which you are or you'd not ask this question, the difficulty level of accomplishing the task may defeat you.

1st, three special tools are involved. The pulley puller, as mentioned, a line wrench (don't attempt to use a plain open-end wrench, it probably will ruin the fitting) to remove the high pressure fitting, and after the pump is back on the vehicle, you will have to have another tool to press the pulley back onto the pump shaft.

For the two tools to remove and reinstall the pulley, try going to Auto Zone for their loaner tool program, O'Rileys' and Pep Boys may have loaner tools, I don't know.

Good luck.

A system of pulleys is called a block and tackle

While it is a bad practice, it is not particularly dangerous for very short distances.

If the alternator is not turning properly, the battery will not charge, so you could be stranded, and jumping the battery really won't help unless you keep the two cars connected for a while. If you have to operate it like that for a while, then you should connect it to a charger every chance you can.

Now, if the water pump isn't operating correctly, the engine will likely overheat, and especially when idling. But if you must operate the car in this condition, be sure you keep an eye on your temperature gauge.