Pulleys

Speed and accuracy.

There is not A belt that does that. It will be on the alternator too. If it is in the orriginal vehicle A parts store can get it for you by make, model, and options. If its not orriginal You will need to just try some different sizes.

The forces that could occur in a pulley system are the force of gravity (due to the pulley's own weight), the tension force (of the rope), and the applied force (the force pulling on the ropes, i.e. a person pulling on it, or a load on the rope).

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check the idle control valve not that hard to replace and inexpensive

its real old lookin

The pulley was used by the Romans to move large pieces of equipment and to create buildings. Pulleys were also used in the creation of weapons.

Remove air box, pulley is located just under attached to engine block. Should remove bolts take off belt, and replace pulley and belt.

there is no Dominator products in Sri Lanka

There is no spring loaded tensioners on the Mercury Villager. Look for manual adjustments, loosen the nut in the center of the adjustment idler's and then move the adjustment bolts toosen the belts for replacement. Since this vehicle does not have just one long serpentine belt the routing is fairly simple to figure out. If the belts are still on the vehicle you can draw a quick sketch of the routing to help when re-installing the belts.

It may be one of two reasons one: it is the blade in the fan slowing down.
two: it maybe the blade on the fan moving due to wind.

you need to buy a tool, but ill recommended to you that take it to mechanics!

you can purchase the tool online!

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_9602_67/powerbuilt_50mm_honda_crank_pulley_tool_10mm_valve.html

Navid.E

what year? E30? E36? E46? E90? Adam (adam.francis@snowsgroup.co.uk)

Yes.

But running without a thermostat will cause the engine to be overcooled, because the restriction normally provided by the thermostat on the flow of coolant from the radiator around the engine has been removed, so too much coolant will flow and the engine will run too cool.

If the engine is not up to temperature it uses more fuel, will produce less power, will wear more, and will not heat the cabin heater as well. So it's not a good idea to run without a thermostat.

It is acceptable to run without a thermostat in an emergency, e.g. if the thermostat has failed and doesn't open, causing the engine to overheat. Just make sure you replace it as soon as you can.

Running without the thermostat may also trip the check engine light to come on.

I have taken the alternator out of a 96 montecarlo with the 3.4 motor successfuly without dropping the engine cradle,disconnecting the steering gear or moving the exhaust like described by many. undo the baterry. unbolt the lug nuts and the axle nut with a 36mm axle socket and breaker bar.remove the splash guard and plastic inner fenderwell.remove the brake caliper and mounting bracket.hang caliper out of the way without stressing the rubber brake line.most likely need to torch out the bolts with a breaker bar for the caliper mounting braket.torch the metal around the bolt as the heat will make the metal expand helping to loosten the bolts.remove the brake rotor. unbolt the four mounting bolts for the wheel/hub assembly from the rear pocket of the steering knuckle. make sure your ratchet does not sit at an angle when removing the bottom two bolts as this will snap the heads off.disconnect the two plugs from the wheel speed sensor. the sensor is pinned in to the back of the steering knuckle and wheel hub assembly, pinning the knuckle in between the sensor and the wheel hub.once the wheel hub bolts have been removed pry the assembly loose from the knuckle working carefully to pry the hub from the sensor pins.unbolt the sway bar end fom the control arm. loosten the control arm bolts. remove the cotter pins and castle nuts off the ball joints and tie rod ends. place a ball joint/tie rod remover(pickle fork)in between the tie rod/balljoint and the control arm.hammer the fork until they break free and the control arm drops. use a two or three jaw puller to separate the wheel hub assembly from the axle halfshaft. the steering knuckle and shock tower are one unit and can be removed by posistioning a jack or support under it to support the unit as it will drop out after unbolting the assembly from the three bolts located under the hood take note of posistion of the strut tower and cover. drop the tower assembly down from the car and remove the shield from the trans that sits above the axle. use a slide hammer and adapter to remove the axle from the trans by fist putting the adapter behind the axle in between the trans and then screwing in the hammer and hamerin out the axle. release the tension on the belt using a serpentine belt tool and remove the belt. undo the top mounting bolt for the alternator using the serpentine tool to break the top bolt loose continue removing from the underside.undo the bottom pivot bolt,pull bolt out to fender and slide the alternator to the left as there is a slot cut in the mounting braket to allow the bolt to be removed. be carefull not to loose the spacer and take note of its location prior to removal.lower the alternator carefully supporting it as you unplug and unbolt the connections.maneuver alternator out as well as the cooling duct attached to it. if there is no cooling duct this could be the problem because of the location of the alternator its is imparitive that it is cooled down and not overheated by the trans or engine

Usually the bronze bushing found on the replacement idler pulley and the bushings in the rollers are impregnated with softer metals that act as a lubrication. I've repaired appliances for several years and have yet to find a lubricant that will last. Once th rollers or pulley start to squeek, it is only a matter of time before they will need to be replaced. In the amount of time it takes to regrease the parts, with a little expense, you can change the parts and solve the problem.

i just got mine done u will have to unmount the engine and lift the engine with a jack. its on the passenger side of the engine

1st remove belt

you will need a power steering pulley puller can rent from your local parts store

follow instructions supplied with puller

finally reinstall belt

The belt is accessible thru driver side tire wheel shroud. 1. Park on a level road and put stoppers at the rear tires. Apply e-brake and jack the passenger side. 2. Remove the screws and remove the shroud cover. 3. Loosen the belt tensioner screws and take out the loosen belt. 4. replace the belt and tighten appropriately.

On my 1.6L Elantra there is a hole in the inner fender that lines up with the crank shaft bolt. Remove the front tire. A half inch drive extension bar will fit right into the recess in the crank bolt. I used my impact wrench and a 1 foot long 1/2" drive extension and the bolt came right out. A 1/2" drive ratchet or breakover bar would work just as well. My problem now is I can't get the crank shaft timing belt gear off. It moves about 1/4" and then hangs up.

There is only 2 tensioner pulley on a Dodge Shadow 2.5L and that's right above the belt that drives the water pump and alternator... that tensioner pulley opperates the AC Compresser and the other one goes for the timing belt.

in place of the existing one,assuming it is equipped with one

I know that the torque on the 1991 4 Runner V6 is around 180lbs of torque and the threads have adhesive applied to them. HOWEVER, in my case my problem is just the opposite. My truck lost the bolt and trashed my radiator and I now have to order a new one. - You might find out by calling a dealership if the bolt is LH or RH... This might make a difference... NOTE: Make sure you put set torque properly when you replace it and put adhesive on the threads... If you don't it spins out and slams into your radiator at high speed...