Serpentine Belts

If you mean the serpentine belt that runs the pulleys on the front of the car, there is a tensioner pulley that you can turn with a wrench to release the tension. Make sure you remember the routing of the belt so you can put the new belt on the same way.

Gandu mujhe pata rahta to yaha gand marata

To replace the tension pulley on a 1998 Oldsmobile Regency, start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal to ensure safety. Use a wrench to relieve tension on the serpentine belt by turning the tensioner pulley, then remove the belt from the tension pulley. Unscrew the mounting bolts securing the tension pulley and replace it with the new one. Finally, reinstall the serpentine belt and reconnect the battery terminal.

Standard rh threads

I had the tensioner and belt replaced on my 93 saturn. Before hiring someone I looked into it online. My advice is that unless you have the tools and basic skills for mechanics (the basics yes, the tools no) I would suggest you take it to a mechanic and since you are doing that you might aswell have the serpinine belt replaced and tightened too. Good luck

Use a 15mm wrench on the pulley and turn it counter-clock wise. That is for the power steering drive belt. Now for the air conditioner drive belt you would loosen the 2 bolts on the tensioner pulley bottom side with a 1/2" socket on a 3/8" driver. Do not remove bolts only loosen them slightly. Then, there is a slot on the left side of the tensioner pulley. Insert a 3/8" breaker bar into the slot and then crawl under the car to pull downward on the breaker bar. This will take a lot of effort. But not as much as is needed for putting the belt back on. Have fun!!!!!! My hands are all bloody. I just finished.

if belt needs tightening, u need a new belt

serpentine belts use a tension pulley that automatically keeps belt tight until belt is worn out or stretched.

At the very least everything the belt powered will stop. This means your water pump no longer circulates the coolant so the engine may overheat. It also means the alternator will stop, thus the battery will no longer be charged and at some point will be too discharged to continue to supply electricity to run the engine, much less lights etc. It also means the power steering will stop, the car will be harder to steer.

There are probably other consequences I have not mentioned.

So the long and the short of it is put the belt back on or replace it if it is broken.

# get the correct door for the opening

# Judge the clearance you need under the door to clear carpet or tiles if they are there. # There are two sides to a door if its a hollow door the lock side is marked and it has a block inside of it to hold the locking mechanism. unless its been taken of this should be marked on the door. # place the lock side of the door on the ground and mark the door edge 200mm from the top and then the same from the bottom. # place the hinge on the middle of the door side of the mark and mark around the hinge on both the top and the bottom and center if required.and cut out the depth of the material the hinge is made of inside the lines

# now you have to make corresponding checkouts in the door jamb only start the first check out 2mm further down IE 202mm from the top of the door jamb then cut out the rest of the check outs. # hold the door in place and screw in the hinges.

...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the local library should have a professional shop manual available, to make copies of, in the Reference section...good luck:)

Go to AutoZone for a Pic.

don't know about belt; but the noise might be water pump or AC compressor (if installed). Mine has same.

hi there mate I'm a Toyota tech. you need a need belt and tensioner its hydrolic therefore not adjustable.

I got my 92 MPV manual on eBay I think I paid about $10.00 but I forgot

Only about 10 minutes providing you still have the routing diagram attached to the engine compartment and a tool for the tensioner on hand.

You will need a ratchet and a strong friend. Put the ratchet on the bolt on the pulley that moves. You will know which one it is because when you turn it the belts wll loosen and tighten on the pulley. have some one hold the ratchet down so you can remove the belt from the pulley... pull it off. Remember how it came off to put it back on. Once you pull the belt off you can let the ratchet go. Put the belt parallel with the pulley and pull the ratchet down. WHen it loosens the pulleys slide the belt on and let the ratchet go. ZRemove ratchet. Don't start the car but tap the key forward 3 to 4 times to make sure the belt is on track. Then start it up!!

very simple, there is a tension pulley on top of the AC/Compressor loosen the center bolt on the pulley and the adjusting bolt on top of the tension pulley and simply push the pulley down until the belt comes loose.

First of all, you will need to locate the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt tensioner pulley. There should be a belt routing map under the hood.

If you have a 6 cyl 3.0L engine: the drive belt tensioner is located between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley and the drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator (or generator) and power steering pump.

If you have a 6 cyl 3.8L engine, the drive belt tensioner is located at the very back of the engine (if you follow the belt back from the alternator, the first pulley you come to will be the drive best tensioner) and it's very inconvenient to get to. The drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator and the power steering pump pulley.

Per Chilton's manual, use a 15mm wrench on the bolt of the drive belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension. Remove the belt from the drive belt tension pulley. When installing the new belt, make sure that the drive belt is routed correctly and note the position of the indicator mark on the tensioner.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

NOTE: The above, is mostly correct, with the exception that the tensioner pulley is NOT between the alternator and power steering pump on the 3.8 litre. The power steering pump is located on the forward most portion of the motor, on the passenger side of the vehicle. The only pulley close to being in between both of those pulleys is the idler pulley, not tensioner. The tensioner is however the furthest towards the firewall of all the pulleys, as stated above.

To state that the tensioner pulley is located in an area that is "inconvenient" is an understatement to the extreme. There is barely enough room to get your arm in there and if your a big man, forget it. Find someone with thinner proportions. Or, get a REALLY long 15mm wrench. When I say that, I mean something along the lines of 3 ft. in length. That does not have an angled box end.

Failing that, and as an aside, I would like to share a "mechanics technique" for applying leverage, when you don't have enough, and are working with limited space that do not allow for sockets, and you don't have a breaker bar that will fit over the end of the wrench, as I discovered mine would not.

What I did, in this instance, for releasing the tension on the belt pulley's, as I needed to replace the alternator in this case, was I placed the 15mm wrench on the tensioner bolt. I feel it is important to note, that I was using an angled box end to do this portion of the job, which is NOT the best choice, but it was what I had. I had the open end facing up, and the angle head was placed in such a manner as to have the open end leaning towards the distributor. I then took a large (1" open/box end) wrench, which so happened to be about a foot long, and placed open end horizontal and slid it into the open end of the 15mm. There was no room to do this in the traditional manner, which is to actually hook the box end around the open end, in such a way as to make two wrenches extend and become one. The hood sill is in the way. So I placed the two open ends together.

When I pressed downwards on the box end of the 1" wrench, it gave enough extra leverage, that I was able to rotate the tensioner and release the belt. You MUST push down on this enough to come close to the alternator itself, for this to work, but the combination of wrenches is a viable solution, if you can't just go out and purchase a crowbar, or don't have the proper length of 15mm to give you the leverage that you need. This technique will also allow you to work with your free hand to remove the belt from the alternator. When you release your tension again, the end of your 15mm should rest against the A/C hoses at the firewall. This is fine, as the tension this creates will keep the tensioner pulley available and you can remove the larger wrench from the equation temporarily, until you are ready to place the belt over the final pulley. Or when you are done replacing the alternator.

As a note of caution, if you are using this technique, do be aware of your angles. If the leverage wrench slips, the belt will snap instantly back into place. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE PULLEYS and be MINDFUL of your steadiness when working this leverage technique. It ISN'T the most stable. The tensioner clamps down with enough force, that you CAN lose fingers... Or at least have them crushed. I don't want that happening to you.

I people with a creative solution to tensioner pulley leverage issues. It is simple and very effective, but caution is warranted.

The forum is working! The info provided for changing serpentine belt on 95 Ford Windstar was invaluable to my success, albeit I have a 3.8L 1996 Windstar. Thanks for participating people! As an addendum that someone might find of use to remove/replace belt as the solution was different from anything I found�

Pulley locations: Looking across engin from passenger side(Failed to maintain formatting of poor man's diagram. Check on hood for belt ID and layout; found one on internet as well:

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small0900823d801d2c16.jpg

Refer to above link for pulley IDs as I reference them by number.

Finally determined the drive belt tensioner pulley (#4) gave up the ghost causing belt to pop off. As of Sept 05, Ford dealer: ~$33.00. Internet: ~$16.00, but when you can�t wait for delivery�Ford dealer (tried Pep Boys & AutoZone, didn�t have).

1)Replaced #4 pulley (comes w/mounting bolt) using an 18mm ratcheting combo wrench made by GearWrench and purchased from Lowes (~$10). Chose this as the ratchet side is as thin as the crescent side (too small a space for normal ratchet w/socket).

2) I routed belt per drawing on vehicle leaving belt off #4 and using someone�s forum suggestion, I taped belt to #6 pulley w/only masking tape which worked well enough to hold belt in position.

3) Purchased a 14 inch crowbar (called a �construction tool� by Lowes) for $9.00. One end flares out at ~45 deg., other end heavily curves to 90 deg. in opposite direction of 45 deg. flare. The key to success w/this tool is the curvature providing excellent torque/rotation through a smaller distance than anything straight. I placed the 45 deg end in a notch on the right side of drive belt tensioner (mounted to the engine block and attached to #7. Applied downward force on crowbar until 90 deg. end barely made contact w/generator. I was then able to hold in position w/one hand and slip remaining belt on pulley #4. Belt placement took 5 minutes!!

4) Final note: #7 along w/attached part (not sure what this is called: spring loaded idler pulley?) to engine block is a self-adjusting tensioner. It naturally wants to rotate toward firewall so rotating it toward the front of the car releases tension and when released automatically tightens belt aligning markings on �spring loaded idler pulley�. I originally tried to use #7 as others suggested, but I found the work space too tight. I also slid an extension pipe over the 15mm wrench to increase torque, but the pipe I used was too long such that when I relieved belt tension the pipe prevented easy access to the belt on #4 as the two pulleys are aligned.

Oh thank you. I had success using the crowbar technique. I had to replace the idler pulley (item #4) on my 1996 Windstar as the old one lost all its bearings and was sparking. The replacement was plastic and not rounded making it difficult to slide the belt on. I almost ran to a different parts store to shop for an identical replacement. 60 seconds to replace the pulley. 60 minutes or more fighting to get the belt on. What finally did it for me was the crowbar. I found that pushing the crow bar down past the alternater, it put pressure on the belt. I had to start with the crow bar through the belt, into the notch of the tensioner. It was a tight fit, but when I cranked the crow bar down, the last time (of course the 30 times before it wasn't just right), the belt slid on. Good luck to the next person who reads this. Hope this helped, or at least encourages you, even more.

Facilitated!

Answering "Serpentine belt diagram for 1992 Mercedes Benz 300e 2.6?"

I can send the instructions to you by mail

100,000

The Scots of course made tartan thats why tartan is a well knowing thing when others talk about scots

Happened to me once... was old and worn, is a very natural thing, just doesn't happen to everyone, so not many folks realize it.

Belts are soft and pliable. after a while they just wear out.

forged or machine turned depends on its job and quality

The tensioner is a moving part and can wear out like any other mechanical part, however, there is one bolt in the front of the tensioner pulley (15mm) that holds the tensioner in pace. Make sure that it is tight, no play in the part.

There really is no "tightening" of the belt because that is the tensioner's job. If your belt is loose or squeaking you may want to replace the part. That is what I am doing. I have a 2004 Ram 2500 4x4 w/ 5.7L HEMI and am replacing the tensioner. There are 80K miles on the rig and I maintain it meticulously. Troubleshooting the consistent squeaking after the belt r&r I decided it is the tensioner and my mechanic conferred.

Oreilly's has the OEM part for $45 (DODGE HOUSE IS $75.00) and it will take 20 minutes to change the tensioner and reinstall the new belt.