Serpentine Belts

Yes , the 3.2 liter V6 engine in a 1995 Honda Passport is an interference engine

( according to the Gates website , they make timing belts etc. )

place a 15 mm spanner on the tensioner from under the car and rotate it clock wish to lift the tensioner then you can remove the belt

*NOTE: I didn't, but it would be safest to remove the negative battery cable for this procedure so there is not a possibility of the car starting and ripping your arm off. If you're not going to do that, at least pull they keys. I am not a professional - the following is my personal experience:

Well, it's a bastard. Took me all of an hour and a half. I believe there's a hole in the center of the tensioner that fits a 3/8 drive. There isn't enough room to fit a socket wrench in there, and I don't have a 3/8 breaker bar, but that might fit - it is very tight. I couldn't get enough grip to do it by hand, but I was able to change it by hooking my pipe wrench underneath the tensioner arm and lifting straight up then . . . with my left arm trembing from the strain, work the belt off the alternator pulley with my right. (Help would've been nice for that step.) Cuss. Remove pipe wrench. Work the belt off the other pulleys (cussing some more because although this should be the easy part GM seemed to think that if a mouse could fit in there your hand should be able to.) Work the new belt over the main and a/c pulleys first. Take a lot of time to cuss here too as you realize you inexplicably got the belt not only over the main pulley but also over some plastic piece behind it. Fix that. Cuss. Slide the belt under the tensioner pulley. At this point you should have the belt positioned on all the pulleys except the alternator pulley. Now . . . pipe wrench time again (or the correct damn tool if you have it), and lift that tensioner arm with all your might. Then, with your last ounce of strength, slip the belt onto the alternator pulley. Breathe. Cuss. Examine each pulley to make sure the belt is in the right place and not off to the side. (In my experience it's hard to get this wrong. The lips on the edges of the pulleys are high. If you have the belt between those lips, you're probably fine.)

Reconnect the battery cable and start they car. If something sounds weird or smells like Agent Orange, turn the car off and just cuss. If it sounds ok, leave it running and go take a look at the belt hopefully running nicely around the pulleys as it should. Close hood. Shut off engine. Have beer.

Good luck.

That depends entirely on which engine you have.

Buy a Haynes or Chilton repair manual from a parts store.

Here is the link with the answer:

http://www.oemwire.com/Help_Pages/Replace_Serpentine_Belt_2001_Lincoln_Continental

On the alternator belts, there is a pivot bolt that needs to be loosened located on the top of the alternator. There are also a lock bolt and a belt tension ajustment bolt located on the driver side of the alternator. As you loosen the ajustment bolt, the belts will come right off. The A/C belt uses an idler pulley accessed from under the car. That lock nut is in the center of the pulley, and the ajustment bolt is located on the side of the pulley. There is no pivot bolt for this belt.

have you changed any pulleys alt. etc.make sure they all have same amount of groves for the belt to seat into!some have6 some 7 check it out

Peter, I don't know exactly for a 1995 Voyager but I recently changed the tensioner on my 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan so they should be similar. You will need to get underneath the vehicle, preferably over a pit or have it jacked up nice and high. There is a bolt through the back of the unit that you access from underneath. Once you find the bolt and remove it the tensioner comes right off and the installation is just the reverse. It took me awhile to figure out how to do it but once I found the bolt it was very easy. .

Ron

I just changed the tensioner on a 1994 voyager with the 3.3 V6

undo the alternator retaining bolts and move the alternator out of the way

the exposes the tensioner and you can get a 15mm open end wrench on it.

you work mostly by feel

but it is a relatively easy thing to do with the alternator out of the way; darn hard to do with the alternator in place

I forgot to mention, when taking moving the alternator, you should disconnect the wires at the alternator(after disconnecting the battery of course) after you remove the bolts holding the alternator in place; you can move the alternator around to access the conections went the bolts are out. In this way you can get the alternator out of the way so you can work on the tensioner without taking the alternator right out of the car

Here's what I did.

I hate working under cars so I do it the hard way. Some tools you'll need will be a pipe that fits over the box end of a 15mm wrench, a 3/8 wratchet with a 13mm,15mm, and 10mm socket.

Use the 15mm wrench with the pipe added on it and put it on the nut that holds the pulley to the tensioner. Pull the tesioner towards you and use your other hand to take the belt off the most convient pulley. Take your 10mm socket and remove the bolts holding the coil pack onto the front end of your intake manifold, then remove the top spark plugs with the plug wire gromet and put the wires on top of the intake to keep them out of the way.

Next, dissconect the little hose at the joint right in the middle that goes to your windshield wiper sprayer and lay it out of the way. Also dissconect the drain tube and put it out of the way. Now take your 15mm socket and remove the bolt on top of the intake manifold that holds the alternator brakcet. Change to the 13mm socket and remove the two bolts that hold the top bracket to the bracket that the alternator is attache to. Use the 15mm to remove the alternator top bolt. Remove bracket. Now loosen the three 15mm bolts that attach to the front of the engine that secure the side alternator bracket. The bracket wont be loose until you have loosened the belt tensioner nut so be patient. Remove the bottom alternator bolt. You will need a socket and a wrench to get the nut off so the bolt will come out. Do yourself a favor and force the exhuast heat shield down with the box end of the wrench so the nut wont drop onto the back of the tranny, never again to be found. Put a pry bar in between the tensioner and the botom of the alternator and lift the alternator up far enough to get it free of the brackets, while shaking the top backwards and forwards. Once the alternator is loose lay it over and disconect the wire clip in the back, then use your 10mm socket to disconect the other alternator wire. Push the alternator out of the way a tad and shine a flashlight onto the back of the tensioner. get your 15mm wrench out and do what you can to loosen it enough to get slack on the alternator bracket.

Now pull the alternator out of the engine compartment and set it down. On the back of the alternator bracket is a pipe brace with another 15mm bolt that I removed, then pushed the pipe down out of my way so I could get my big hands and thick fingers into get at the tensioner nut. Now loosen the tensioner nut and pay special attention to not dropping the nut!!! Run some fine sand paper over the surface of the belt tensioner bracket to make sure it seats flush and install the new tensioner. Since the side alternator bracket is loose you will have to move it around to get the new tensioner bolt to go all the way through. Install the nut. The rest is pretty much the reverse of above

To put the belt back on, make sure the belt is on all of the pulleys except the idler, that is the one in the middle on the top. Go ahead and run it on the tensioner otherwise you cant get it over the wrench. Put your pipe on the wrench and pull it toward you and push down on the belt until it is under the idler. Get your flashlight and check to make sure the belt is on all the pulleys the right way. Go have a beer you earned it for having to work on a front driver cry-slur.

Which engine are we talking about?

In the '94 3.3/3.8L I just did, it was like Ron said above. There was a single bolt which attaches from the INSIDE, not the front. You need to get way under the car to access it. Once you get there, it comes of quite easily. You still need to relieve the tension on the belt 1st.

GL

DNO

thier should be a tensioner pully with a 5/8 bolt on it on the front of the motor if not i don't know

On the left side of the engine standing in front, you should see bracket with a square hole. That hole should be the right size to fit a ratchet with a cheater bar. You can even buy a serpentine belt change kit, but a regular ratchet will work. Pull the tension off the belt, and take old belt off. Check the diagram to see how the new belt goes on. A real easy job.

Look for the tension pulley. there is a square hole in the end. Stick a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a short 1/2 inch extension end into it and turn it to releave the pressure off of the pulley.

** THIS IS FOR TIMING BELT ** There is nothing for us as users to adjust. Tension is done by the auto tensioner. The timing belt spins the cams, and water pump on these cars. Maitanance scheduals of 60k and 120k are required. Change out water pump, belt, and tensioner. / / / / / / / / I'm wrong!! Oops! The serpentine belt that runs the alternator, AC, Power steer. To adjust the tension on this belt. There is an adjustment hex head screw. Located on the idler pulley. Turn clockwise to raise idler, tightens belt tension. SEE LINKED PAGE: http://www.stealth316.com/2-alt-drivebelt.htm Sorry for the initial mix-up. Da Moo

Vauxhall used to have 80,000 mile changes,but have revised that down to 40,000 for increased reliability.I believe this will apply to yours,although a quick call to your local vauxhall dealer would confirm.You should get it done for around

to change the belt ....there sould be a diagram of running route ...under the hood....you will have to drop the starter....no special tool ....flat heat screwdriver....socket to drop starter. GOOD LUCK, LISA No, you do NOT need to remove the starter! Are you kidding? That's like the GM Vega, having to pull the engine to remove spark plugs! Starter has nothing to do with the belts. You need a belt tensioner tool (up to 1990) to release the tension of the belt. Put new one on using the same routing of the old belt. Release tension off tensioner, and good to go. If you have the belt off, it is a good idea to also replace water pump belt, since it runs behind it. (up to about 1991... '92 and later use serpentine for water pump as well) Keep in mind, Tempo up to 1990 uses a different tool for the tensioner. 1991 and later, you can just use a 1/2 inch ratchet drive.

the belt diogram should be right there wher your latch hoock is when you open your hood

Something is mis-aligned. Check the mounting brackets to see if anything is bent. Make sure that the alternator and any other accessories are aligned properly and that all of the bolts are used to keep the accessories from twisting out of alignment. If the mounting bracket is bent you may need to get a replacment.

Get yourself an E Z OUT and a Helicoil. The E Z Out is like a drill bit that drills into the broken bolt and then when you reverse it, it grabs the bolt and will bring the bolt out. Take the broken bolt end to see what size you need. You can drill the bolt out completely but then you will need to tap threads into the block using a tap. AMKE SURE YOU DO NOT DRILL TOO FAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is a product call a Helicoil where you can drill out the hole and then insert a helicoil which threads inot the hole and then your new bolt will thread into the helicoil. All is not lost.......sometimes the biggest headache is getting enough room to drill and tap. When you get the broken bolt out, I suggest you use a torque wrench when you install the next one, and if the bolt and the block are made from different metals, I suggest some antiseize on the bolts threads to keep this from happening again.

On my '97 4.0 liter, it's a pulley below the power steering pump, to the right of the water pump as you look into the engine compartment. On my 92 2.5 L the power steering pump position is adjustable to tension the belt.

oil it or shoot a squealer

the serpentine belt has a ten-shun-er (sorry cant spell) that has a loaded spring in it. if the ten-shun-er is not working then the belt will be loose. the ten-shun-er keeps adaquitt pressure on the belt. if the belt is loose than look at the ten-shun-er

yes

The diagram is not on a decal under the hood or in the engine compartment.

There should be a sticker in the engine compartment to show u, or the owners manual or just go by the dealer and just ask someone just do it do not be afraid to ask someone they cannot say no and shout u too...TOUGH LOVE LARRY

Ok my b5 AFN engined Passat serpentin belt code 5PK1588. Would have posted a jpeg drawing but site wont let me.

With the Air-con belt removed, thread the new serpentine belt between the tensioner and fan first, with the grooves against the tensioner, and work counter clockwise i.e. crank, bottom idler, power steering. Then lever the tensioner away from the fan with a 15mm spanner and slip the belt over the alternator pulley, that way there's no need for the service position. Refit your air-con belt and your good to go.

You don't repair a serpentine belt. You replace the worn or broken belt with a new one.