Serpentine Belts

There are many different variations on equipment that determine different routings for the belt. What size engine and what equipment is on yours? Power Steering? Air Conditioner? That kind of stuff.

On the chance it might be a 5.7L (350 cubic inches) V8, with P/S & A/C and has an alternator and P/S pump on the driver side, the A/C compressor on the passenger side, here goes:

If you're facing the van, standing in front of it, driver side on your right:

The crankshaft pulley is the bottom most pulley and is in the center. Immediately above that is the water pump and slightly lower and to the right might be the P/S pump. Up top on the left is the A/C compressor pulley, the tensioner is in the center and the alternator is on the right.

One thing to remember: you have to use a long handled socket on the tensioner to get the belt to fit. It's best to route the belt all the way around all the pulley's except for the alternator and save it for last. Then while applying a lot of pressure on the tensioner, you can place the belt over the alternator pulley. A picture would be easier, but I don't have access to do that right now.

The belt goes around and under the crankshaft pulley. Starting with the right hand side of the belt coming from the bottom of the crankshaft pulley, the path goesto the left of the water pump pulley, around the top of it and down under the power steering pump pulley, all the way up and to the right of the alternator pulley and over the top of it, then down under the tensioner pulley and over the top of the air conditioner compressor pulley whereupon it returns to the left side of the crankshaft pulley.

From the front remove the brush cover on the bottom of the truck. You will find the two tensioners for the two belts. You will have to loosen the center nut(i think it is a 14mm). once loosened there is a 12mm bolt, loosen that and the tensioner will open. remove the belts and replace with new ones. Be sure to write down the routing, draw a sketch, or a take a picture. Reverse order to tighten.

Look under the alternator , as your standing , facing the front of the engine , to your left follow the belt down . It has a 3/8 square in it so you can use a ratchet to take the tension off the belt for removal. Easy to replace attached by one bolt to the engine and is sold as a unit (arm , sprng assembly and roller) for around $20.00. Just alot of stuff to reach through to get to it.

there is no fixing the tensioner. It needs to be replaced. it is not difficult to do. use a belt tool to release the belt. Remember to have a drawing of the belt pattern before you remove it. in most cases it will not have to be removed unless you are replacing the belt as well. There sould be one bolt that holds it in place. loosen the bolt and remove. If you lhave a digital camera tthis is a good time to use it. pictures make it easy to put things back on. Most parts stores will either have the part or can get it for you. it is also possible to find them at salvage yards. hope it helps. duboff Actually you need a 14 mm wrench to remove the belt. The tensiner is held on with 2- 10mm bolts one at the top and one you need to access from the side Remove the drivers wheel and the engine shield to acces it Thye top one is much easier if you remove the engine mount and support the oil pan

A belt diagram for a 1991 Honda Accord can be found in the cars maintenance manual. Sometimes there is a sticker under the hood with a diagram as well.

hat is the serpentine belt routing for 1990 ford 150 4.9

Its 15mm on my '97

Sometimes you simply cant guess what size you ought to use because the way the AC compressor is layed out doesn't allow you to run a serpentine belt as it may be in the way of the belt. However if you remove the compressor you can sometimes use the non-AC part number for the belt providing none of the other ancillaries that are run by the belt have been moved around in order to fit the AC compressor. Some garage computer programs provide the drawings of the positioning of the different components that are driven by the belt. There you can compare if all these components remain in the same locations as in your vehicle. If this is the case you can install the non-AC belt prior to removing your compressor and see if the correct tension is maintained. Hope this helps.

PS: Do not run an engine on a faulty compressor as if it seizes it could potentially destroy your engine (common fault on Renault clios)

Well, there is a diagram inside the hood of the car.

My alternator stopped recharging my battery but I can't take the tension off my serpentine belt to put my alternator back on.

A water pump with bad bearings can cause this. I just experienced this on my 2003 Buick. All other belt driven components, i.e. a/c, alternator, power steering unit, tension pulley, etc were free turning. Water pump shaft was locking up and threw belt off.

This is located just left of center halfway down the pulley side of the engine. For an even better idea, look at the belt mapping sticker under the hood of the car, it will be pointed out as to it's location. To replace, pull the front right wheel, remove the 2 piece mud guards behind it. You'll be looking at the bottom bolt which you can remove very quickly. The top bolt you will have to work a bit more for, it's above. I removed mine working from the top down with an offset metric box wrench. Once it was broken loose it spun free by hand. Good luck.

Any Haines or Chiltons manual. Located at most parts stores for under $25.

hi need to know how easy or hard it is to replace the serpentine belt ,thanks

Hi, its not to difficult to change. The answers I have found on the net are all inaccurate. I just replaced mine so I will tell you what I did.

First you will have to loosen the bolt on the tension pully with a 15mm socket or a wrench if there is no room.

The tension bolt is on a bracket that is attached to the smooth pully and will be the closest bolt to the top. You will also see a 3/8 square hole on the bracket so you know this will be the correct bolt.

Once you have loosened it, you will need a 3/8 breaker bar. This will go in the square 3/8 hole on the bracket. You will then turn the bar counter clockwise and this will release the tension for you to put the belt on. Once done make sure to tighten the bolt back on and you are set to go!!

I had to do alot of the work from under the car because of the space limitations from the top.

Good luck and make sure to use jack stands if you are jacking up the car!

Just click this link and print the diagram out and put it on that way. When you loosen the tensioner pull the ratchet away from the vehicle and you will need a 19mm socket. Good luck. http://www.search-autoparts.com/searchautoparts/data/articlestandard//motorage/162005/155700/article.pdf

Two bolts on the alternator, one on top 12mm in the slotted hole, one on bottom of the alternator being a 14mm (just loosen both of them). The one on the bottom is the pivot point. Rotating the alternator will adjust the tension on the serpentine belt. Leave about 1/2" play in the belt. If it squeals later may need a bit more tension. Don't overtighten.

Notice the arm at the top attached to the alternator (the arm with the slotted hole) has a cast bolt midway on the face toward the engine. This makes a nice leverage point for sticking a screwdriver in between this bolt and the alternator (holding srewdriver vertically and pushing forward) for tightening.

usually u get a breaker bar or ratchet and put the right socket on it and pull to the left to loosen it will pop back in place and when u put belt back on just pull to left again

the belt is ether too old, or a faulty component that is being driven by the belt.

This applies to the L6 4.0L 2000 Jeep Wrangler.

In the middle of the belt tensioner located below the alternator there is a 1/2 inch square hole. Insert the square end of a 1/2 inch breaker bar or socket wrench into the hole and turn the tensioner clockwise as far as it will go. The belt will easily slip of the idler below the tensioner.

Not that the hole is between the bearings in the center of the tensioner arm.

This is not documented in the Jeep service manual.

I know I saw a routing diagram in the engine compartment of my 2000 Chevy Malibu. Yours should have it too unless too worn. I think it is near the belts/front of car.

The tension of a drive belt on a Peugeot Partner Diesel Van can be determined by using a tension gauge, which can be used to measure and adjust the beltÃ?s tension. To replace the belt, open the hood, remove the screws to the air filter cover, and then remove the filter. Next you will need to remove the engine cover and begin to remove the starter. You will need to have the vehicle raised to gain access to the belt and may need to remove other parts to get a clear reach.

ok buddy , i am talking about 1993 Mazda mx6 4 cyl. when you look down you can see the one side of the alternator . put your hand on the back side which you can't see you will find a mounting bolt .you will feel it with your hand . that needs to be loosened first before you can loosen that the long tension bar . good luck , i just replaced the drive belts today ...ouff

azzaro

First and foremost, make sure you have a diagram before removing the old belt. If there isn�t one under the hood, get out the pencil and paper and draw it out labeling the pullies and arrows pointing to the direction the belt travels on them. Save this paper in the glove compartment when the job is done for future reference. As far as replacing goes, it depends on the engine. Believe it or not, they are different amongst manufacturers, makes and models, so Bclear! If there is a spring loaded tensioner, you�ll need to turn the tensioner back to relieve pressure, and slide the belt off the tensioner pulley. Depending on the tensioner, you may be able to use a socket wrench with the right socket, 3/8� drive with socket wrench, or in some cases, you�ll need a tool that is meant for just this called a belt tensioner wrench. After it is relieved of tension, the belt can be removed. The new one gets routed the same, if you can�t remember, refer to your diagram. If you didn�t make one and can�t remember, listen closely and you�ll hear me laughing at you. Some belts require motor mounts to be removed and some are just plain nasty, such as the 1.9 motor found in ford escorts. If there is no tensioner. Look for a bolt going through a bracket that the alternater or power steering mounts to. Loosen the bolt, pry back whatever components keeps tension, and replace the belt. Make the tension respectfully taunt and tighten bolt back down after the belt is replaced..

It is more involved that most vehicles. Just finished doing this on my 2002 Stratus 2.4L. You pretty much have to remove the passenger tire and wheel wall to do it, but I was able to do it myself and am not a mechanic.

Note: I offer this solely as a description of how I accomplished it on my own. It should not be taken as me advising you or anyone in any way on how or whether they manage to repair their own vehicles.

1) Engaged parking brake, loosened lugs on passenger front tire.

2) Jacked-up and placed jack-stand.

3) Removed piece of black under-carriage which surrounds the oil filter and attaches to front bumper. There are at least 10 plastic push-pins to remove and I managed to destroy half of them in the process.

4) Positoned belt over lower pulleys and tensioner (as best as possible) then used a bungee to hold the top end of belt up while I worked under the car.

5) Used a 3/8 ratchet and inserted into square hole attached to the tensioner, disengaged the tensioner (moves clockwise) then used a brace to keep the ratchet handle in that position. (Or line up the holes in the tensioner arm and back late and insert a 4mm drill bit to hold the tensioner off)

6) From top, removed bungee and finished placing belt over alternator, checked the position of entire belt, reengaged the tensioner, and replaced wall and wheel.

1st the front motor mount needs to be removed from the motor,but not out of the car completely.Good luck with the routing of the belt!!!!!!!!!!!