Turn Signals and Hazard Lights

Go to Autozone.com and you can find out what flasher, and where it is located. :)

I had this problem, you have to replace the indicator arm, switch. Look for one on e bay as they are expensive. Easy job to do, steering wheel off. unplug the wires and remove unit , two screws.

It is behind the ashtray, You may have to remove the ashtray mount to see it on the left in a half moon metal holder. KEZZART:

remove the entire ashtray assembly by removing the 4 easy to see hex screws, 2 at the bottom corners and two you can see at the top corners when the ash tray is opened - the cig lighter will still be attached by wires so be careful not to pull out the ash tray too hard or too far - the flasher is inside the ashtray hole to the left and may be held in place by a small clip which often comes loose so it may just be laying loose at the end of a long wire - the flasher is a squat little silver cylinder that just unplugs - remove the clip if it is still attached to the flasher and put it on the new flasher and plug in - then clip it all back in place though i just lay it loose and dont bother clipping it - i sure wonder what jerk designed it to be so hard to find and replace

Its hidden under the dash.

its one off those things that is tricky to get to. and cant just really see it unless you use a mirror.

but where the fuse box is, its beside that. but have to enter from underneath and reach around for something round

Sounds like an electrical problem, check your battery, alternator, and fuse box, and light wiring.

Your blinker is bad, it is located under the center of the dash, get to it by taking the driverside lower panel off. There are two one for the turn signals and one for four ways. Blinkers are not that expensive, i got mine at ace hardware

Fuses blow because there is too much current. This is typically caused by a short circuit, but it can also be caused by too much load, perhaps from adding extra lights. It is also possible that corrosion on the fuse connector can cause heat, which would also tend to blow the fuse.

Check each of the light assemblies and make sure the bulbs are OK and that the wiring is not crimped, cut, or corroded. Sometimes, a wiring harness may go around the edge of a piece of metal and the insulation gets cut, causing a short circuit. It is also possible that the turn signal switch is bad.

It is under stering wheel column on the far right side right by the radio, there is nothing else there. If have trouble finding it unscrew the panel and turn the flasher on and off, we will be able to hear a light click from the flasher even if it out of order.

brake light switch bad check for continuity at the fuse then the switch, but yeah bad switch. Kongkit Raggan-Supatanampon

Probably the turn signal/hazard flasher went bad. On some vehicles they are separate units, but on some vehicles they are the same unit.

Turn Signal Troubleshooting (check in this order):

· Check Fuse

· Check Bulbs

· Check Flasher Relay

· Check Turn Signal Switch in steering column

· Check switch on brake pedal

· Check license plate light bulb and wiring

· Check all wiring harnesses and wiring for shorts

Most likely its the fuse or a burnt bulb breaking the circuit. See sources and related links below for bulb information. Sometimes the license plate and/or the trailer hitch is wired into other circuits and can cause issues in other areas. Sometimes its wires grounding out somewhere on the vehicle. See sources and related links below for bulb information. See owner's manual for location and identification of fuses.

No, you have to move the little lever on the side of the steering wheel.

Seriously, though, there are traffic signals that are on cyclical timers (going on and off in the same pattern endlessly), and others that are connected to sensor loops in the pavement. You can often see where the pavement has been cut with slots at two locations: one at the stopping point, and another at some distance from the intersection (e.g., where the left-turn lane starts).

More:

Traffic signal detectors check for the presence of cars, not their motion. There are two main kinds in use today.

1. Loop detector. These are giant versions of the metal detector you use to find quarters at the beach.

2. Television Detector. These are cameras mounted over the intersection and aimed at the approaches. They can monitor several lanes at a time. Optical recognition is used to recognize shapes.

Note that the signal with detectors changes when the street with the green runs out of cars, or when a preset maximum time expires.

If you are on the street with the red, there is nothing that you can do to make the green come faster. But if you creep up too far, you leave the detection zone, and the light will not change at all.

I could not be sure about your particular problem, but I had to replace the Multi-Function and Turn signal switches in a 96 Lumina for similar strange problems of Brakes and signals not working in particular scenarios.

Look in or near the fuse box Probably left side of steering column near the firewall

if stock one its fried. if aftermarket may be fried, wires crossed or fried speakers

I copied this from an earlier question:

What could be wrong with brake lights, if not the switch, bulbs, or fuses?

The brake lights have stopped working in my Ford Explorer. The bulbs are new, the brake switch is new, the fuses are not blown. What else is there to check?

by Paul @ Bundy's Auto (becker@ThisisToPreventSpam-VKW-RemoveThis.wzrd.com) contributed on November 08, 2003, at 7:26pm. Last updated on November 10, 2003, at 12:26pm. Sounds like you've been doing some guessing! You need to find where the power stops. Use a test light at the sockets. If no power, go to the wire to the socket. When you find where power goes in but doesn't come out, you have your answer. Assuming there is one answer. There is also a possibility of a ground problem. Good luck.

It could be one of many possibilities. I had a brand new s-10 that I was working on and it would blow out the fuse at weird times. I ended up chasing it down to a bolt that was left under the carpet from the factory. the bolt had rubbed through the wire and would short out and pop the fuse.. sometimes electrical problems can be a bear......

I'm not sure about a 1990 model, but later model fords have the flasher unit incorporated within the hazard flasher switch. Try the WD-40 fix, it might correct the problem. Spray WD-40 around the switch and pop it up and down a few time and wiggle it around a bit.

also....from my experience, this could be as simple as a burned out bulb not allowing for a completed circuit !

grip it firmly and pull it straight out,new one pushes back in.

The front and rear windshield washers operate independently of each other. They are two completely separate units. Check your fuse box first to look for a blown fuse. If not, the pump is at the bottom of the windshield washer fluid container located in the front corner of the engine compartment.

I had the same problem. I started trouble shooting the system (Fortunitly I have a factory service manual). I diconected the steering column connector and examined the pins . plugged it back together and hasn,t been a problem since ...... except I found I had to put a larger fuse in like a 25a ? BOB

The turn signal and the flasher use separate flashers. If the dash indicaters come on, do the lights come on but not flash? If yes, probably the flasher. Should be near the hazard flasher. If you don't see it, turn the hazards on and listen for the flasher to click.

two smaller wires on positive battery cable are not making good contact behind the bolt on the cable-probably corroded brass washer At first this answer didnt make any sense because you would think that the flashers would be powered from the fuse box. It's almost like when the built the car they forgot to put flasher on it and added them later. I cleaned the connection and they now woek fine.

You do have to take the steering column apart including the air bags. Due to the possiblilty of deploying the air bags and the complicated steering column, I suggest you take it to a garage.

I had the same problem. I found a ground contact failure in a rear light bulb socket.

If you check this connector your problem will be solved.

It's a 3157 bulb... dual filament, EXTREMELY common for this application among several auto manufacturers.