VW Jetta

Need to no if it is missing Or misfiring.First i will say that the coil is bad.No that there are 4 signals that come from computor so you could have a wire tha is broke.There is battery voltage & ground at the coil to.But you just have one code.So it could just be the transistor in the coil.Needs coil first.

Umm, according to my researches, fingerless gloves can cost from $2.99 to $18.99, it actually depends on what the gloves are made of and where you purchased it :) x

The 2002 Volkswagen Jetta has a 5-speed manual.

Spray in dry graphite and work the key until it loosens up the lock (unless you have already sprayed in a liquid lube like WD40 which will only gum it up more)

If you've already made this mistake, try spraying a little brake cleaner in the keyhole to clean off the WD40, then try the graphite WD40 is not a lubricant, WD40 was invented as a WATER DISPERSANT henc WD, 40 represents the 40th attempt. WD40.

I had the same problem with mine. There is a metal piece in side of the exhaust pipe that can break loose and resonate (vibrate) with reving of the engine. The cheap and easy fix is to torch a small hole in the exhaust pipe and then weld the loose metal piece to wall of the exhaust pipe then weld the hole shut. Mines been good since.

Please post if this is not the problem.

It will be located somewhere in the path of the air that the blower motor blows.

It ain't easy.. My hand is bleeding, but I did it. Remove the nut on the top left of the housing completely. (hint : Before continuing, locate and loosen the hose clamp screw going from the rear of the filter housing to the intake on the engine, sliding the hose off the intake) Lift (filter) housing away from stem. On the air hose leading into the housing, pull back the tabs and pull housing UP and out toward you. A lot of wiggling required (hint: if you followed the hint above, a lot less wiggling is required - it pulls up and out pretty easily, and don't forget to un-clip the wires on the left of the housing). The filter is a cone shaped blue and white thing sticking into the housing. Good luck!

On the compressor itself. It has an L on the cap.

There are no major bolts for these calipers, you only need a 10MM socket to remove the slide pin and the caliper will remove easily. Job should be under 1 hour total for both sides. Make sure you read about the shims for the pads so they do not clatter when you drive. The new pads should come with a bunch of them in different thicknesses.

To remove the console shift knob on the AT 1993 Olds Achieva, first pry the cover from the top of the shift knob. Then, access the single screw inside the cover of the shift knob and turn it counter-clockwise to release the knob.

5w20

there should be a u shaped clip in the front of the knob, almost like a staple. pry that out with a screwdriver and the knob should pull off.

Low oil pressure is an indication of worn bearings, broken oil pressure relief valve or a worn or damaged oil pump. Since the oil pressure relief valve usually doesn't go bad and oil pumps usually hold together quite well, it's probably a problem with worn main/rod bearings. If the vehicle has run without an oil change as scheduled on a couple occasions, the bearings probably have too much clearance. If that's the case you might be able to change to a higher viscosity oil and squeeze a few more miles from the engine, but you'll be needing an engine rebuild soon.

for the passenger side follow these steps - there are two metal retaining clips that you need move out ot the way. They do not come off but are moved with a little pressure towards the outside of the cover plate. They must go up over a little nibs of plastic so a screwdriver can be used to pry them up slightly if it makes it easer. - Genlty pull the cover plate off by wiggilling it back and forth as you pull it off. - notice how the bulb is in the hole as it can only go in one way - the plastic clip holding the wires to the bulb runs perpendicular to the outside passenger fender - reach into the hole and you will find a retaining ring turn it about an 1/8th of a turn counterclockwise then gently pull it off - now gently wiggle the bulb as you remove it - carefully pry up the clip holding the wires to the bulb and remove the wiring harnes - have now removed the buld - I strongly suggest before you reverse these steps and install the new bulb that you practice once or twice with the burned out bulb as there are 3 channel keys that need to align and it can be a little tricky/frustrating if the bulb does not go in easily the first time. When you are putting in the bulb it needs to be pressed in slightly to make sure the rubber ring on the bulb offers a snug fit to the light housing. This does have the advantage of holding the bulb in place while you put the retaining ring back in place. - For the drivers side the steps are the same but you are very cramped for space so removing the battery cover is needed.

Ironically, they are called Strip Fuses. They are not carried by your big name auto parts stores like Auto Zone, Advance, or O' Reilly's. You need to get them from a VW dealership ( if they will sell them to you ) or your best bet will be to find a local foreign car part store to get them, which may be hard to find. Luckily most of these shops specialize European cars and VW's specifically because of VW's complex electrical systems and specialty parts. I just ordered one of these strip fuses for my Jetta today at a local foreign car shop, it ran me $4.50. I over answered the question but hopefully it saves you time.

Checking the fluid level is done from underneath the vehicle. There is a plug located in the side of the transaxle housing unscrew the setscrew and put your ginger in, if you can feel the fluid right at the level or a little comes out then it is at the right level, much below this then add some fluid.

I cant remember if a 1994 had a distributer or not. If it has a distributer, there is no crankshaft position sensor. That information is a calculated value using the input from the distributer stator(pickup coil). If there is no distributer, then there will be a crank sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley.

under the hood

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All seriousness aside, the latch is in fact under the hood, but the lever to actuate the latch may be in one of several places. On an old "classic" VW Beetle, the lever is located in the glove box on the passenger side of the dash board.

If the entire coolant system was drained or parts of it opened it is highly recommended to get the special tool which draws a vacuum then replaces it with coolant. This is because it is easy to airlock many parts of the coolant system.

Assuming your rear brakes have material, could be bad hardware...alot of brake shops offer FREE brake inspections...no obligation--with a written order of their recommendations...:)

Just an update, we didn't want to take the time in removing the fuel system so we held it to the side and unscrewed the 8 bolts holding the intake in, after that it was pretty simple to detach the intake manifold and "finagle" it out. However, i did run into a problem with the chosen header going in to replace the old exhaust manifold and had to grind the outsides of the intake manifold around the bolt holes in order to make the exhaust manifold fit correctly.

It will use a full synthetic oil that must have the equivalent of 502 VW Specifications on the back. Usually 5w 40w viscosity rating ,And 6 quarts will be the amount needed with oil filter change

it sits on the intake manifold on the right side looking at the car from the rear..its a black plastic looking box, attached directly to the intake.

under the steering wheel to the left you need to open that panel and you can plug into to scan your car. hope that's what your looking for.