VW Jetta

Use a loose flowable lubricant like WD40 and lubricate the door half of the latch mechanism, use your hand to cycle it through a few times and it should start moving freely.

Begin by removing the heater control cover. Take hold of the lightbulb, push in and turn at the same time. The lightbulb will come out and can be replaced in the same manner.

It depends on what engine you have. Get a manual on your car from the parts store.

it is on the passenger side of the motor near the harmonic balancer you have to take the passenger wheel off and remove the splash panal to get to it

14.5 gallons/ 55 liters. The information is listed in the technical data booklet that comes with your owner's literature.

GO TO THE AUTO SHOP GO TO THE AUTO SHOP

Almost all the Japanese cars! ;D

no

Actually it depends on the year. there are 5 speed manual trannys in Mk4's and before.

This depends on which 2.5 TDI form which model you mean. There are alo different types of 2.5 TDI, for example with 5 cylinders in a row, V6, different injection systems and so on. Generally, the range is from 65kW/88PS (Transporter T4, 5 cylinders, without intercooler) to 132kW/180PS (Passat 3BG, V6 TDI 4Motion).

That's easy the 02 Jetta has a sealed transmission. You can not check it. YOu have to go to your dealer and have them look at it. They are the only ones that can. I work on alot of these as well as many other cars. If this does not help go to an oil change shop and ask them they will explain it better. Hope this helps

If I am not mistaken it is on the firewall behind the washer fluid holder. My went bad and I just wired a toggle swithch direct from fan motor, under the dash. It works fine just have no speed control, always on high when switched on

Save your self $2000 dollars in labor, order a camshaft sensor on eBay, for your car there $20. Please have some mechanic background or a friend that's familiar with the importance of timing. This job DIY will take you 2 hours, 8 hrs with consumption of beverages.

Step

1. Jack car up, take passenger side splash guard off using a flat screwdriver (for speedclips) and a torq bit to remove cover showing your harmonic balancer

2. take manifold cover (10mm) off and take out oil dipstick.

3. Take Timing belt cover off (2 clips) don't even need to take small intake hose off.

4. use an 18mm wrench to move camshaft clockwise to match timing mark on camshaft and arrow on engine, point a flashlight down at the harmonic balancer. you should see timing mark there as well. Now crawl under the car and scribe another mark, just to be sure, your timing is put back exactly the same.

5. Using a 13mm wrench loosen timing belt tensioner ( i used a small Allen wrench with vise grips) and spin the eccentric clockwise to lossen tension.

6. take belt off.

7. Using a strap wrench and an 18mm socket remove your camshaft.

8. using and Allen wrench and a 12mm take off your camshaft sensor and bracket. Now install your new one.

Using steps in reverse, to put everything back together, a few pointers. You may notice your a tooth off when tension is put back on, this may take a few tries. you marks have to align or your engine will not run good. Note which way you need adjust your belt and do so accordingly. Also theres a lever in the back of the tensioner that you can push clockwise using vice grips and a small allenwrench, i pulled the eccentric counterclockwise (theres 2 holes, you'll see them) while pushing this lever clockwise. I also noticed my old sensor was magnetized, from rubbing the vanes on the camshaft. i slightly adjusted the vanes on the camshaft evenly by bending them very gently and evenly so the hall sensor was not rubbing and had clearance. I hope this saves you money!!!

make sure and check all the relays and fuses,worse case bring to the dealership or a garage to get it hooked up to a computer.

Is this an automatic or manual transmission? If its manual there should be a fill plug usually in the side of the transmission case. Just fill until it starts to come out the fill hole and re install the plug. If its an automatic, you need to run the car in park with the 5mm hex plug removed from the bottom of transmission pan. If there is fluid coming out while running (make sure car is up to operating temp), then it is full. If not, remove the red cap from the transmission ( easier to do with skid pan off, 4 17mm bolts hold in on I believe), then take out the plug and fill until it comes out of the hole that the 5mm plug was removed from. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE PROPER VW TRANSMISSION FLUID!

Bottom. Run up on a curb-stop at speed then look for where the oil leaks out of the engine.

Or if you wanna do it the easy way..... jack up your car and its the big metal pan on the bottom

MR. Vdub writes....... To all in question about your radio unlock code, stay in question! There are a few codes that maybe universal however none of them have ever worked for anyone i know. The best thing to do is to look on the back of your head unit and retrieve the unlock code it's there! it's only 4 digits and there are only (2) 4-digit numbers on the back of the unit! It's one of them. Mr. Vdub says keep us alive and keep it rollin!!!

Try this code--#0623--non universal code but I just got this code 3 mos ago for my 96. Try looking on the top of the radio or in the trunk in the spare tire well!

Your local dealer has to pull the radio and hook it to a computer to find the code. It cannot be done with the radio in the vehicle.

Low gear oil level might do that, or contaminated or dirty gear oil. Get the tranny hot by a 1/2 hour drive and change the oil out for fresh. You may have to do this a couple of times to get all the "badness" out of the tranny. If it doesn't fix it, assume the input shaft bearing has failed, which is not good.

It's a German Vehicle

What you are probably hearing is one of the doors for the ductwork squeaking as it opens/closes due to applied vacuum coming from a freshly started engine.

I just did a 1999.

I am sure these instructions are not complete. Read through and decide if it something you think you can handle. It helps to have an extra set of hands and someone to talk to during this job.

1. Disconnect battery.

2. Remove lower dash driver's side.

3. remove glove box.

4. Remove center section that holds radio/heater controls. (there will be 4 screws behind the trim piece for the heater control. Remove these and leave heater cables attached. (You may have to remove the center console/shifterzperiodz Center console was broken on the one I bought)

5. Remove metal panel at driver's knee.

6. Remove screws for fuse box, nuts that hold relay panels (under dash) and light module.

7. remove trim above and around steering column,

8. remove air bag D S

9. Remove steering wheel.

Note: I was able to skip steps 8 and 9 because I was willing to cut the bottom plastic on the corner in 2 places by the fuse box which made the bottom section flexible enough to continue.

10. Remove instrument cluster.

11. Remove upper dash.

12 remove 2 bolts going up and drop steering column.

13. Remove 1 bolt going horizontal to finish dropping column.

14 Open hood. Disconnect heater hoses.

15. Remove windshield wiper arms.

16. Remove cowl.

17 Remove windshield wiper motor assembly.

18. Remove 1 bolt behind wiper motor assembly for tubular support inside cabin.

19. Now see if you can find all the nuts and bolts that hold the heater box to the firewall. I took out 8 there was still some left because it did not move freely.

20 back inside car remove bolts that hold tubular support (2 on each end and 2 on each side of center console. Watch the ground wires, air bag harness for passenger side and all other wires. (now my turn signals are not working not sure if it was me or if it is the switch) you may have to remove some or all of them.

21. Now you need to remove the duct work. It just snaps in.

22. This is where it gets interesting.

You have numerous choices on how to get the heater box out of the car.

A Discharge A/C system if equipped to do so and if you got all the bolts out, disconnect A/C lines and remove box.

B Remove metal clips that hold the 2 halves of the heater box together (the ones you can see) and pry heater side of box away for the firewall hoping that the clips on the back of the box will pop off. (This is the method I used and got lucky nothing broke)

C Any combination of sawz all, hammer, cutting torch that you feel the job deserves.

When you get the heater box out far enough you can remove the screws in the top and pull the heater core out.

This is by far not the worst job I have done but it is very frustrating and time consuming. I needed about a week to do the job. One Saturday and part of Sunday to tear it apart. 4 days to not work on it because I wanted to smash it and burn it. And Christmas day to put it back together.

C

Bank 1 refers to bank of cylinders. You probably got a triple code code that said something along the line of Bank 1 not optimal or something like that. What it means is that your first bank of cylinders running lean. This is usually caused by fuel injectors, or a leaky manifold. Give me your triple code and I will tell you more.

There is no timing set for a 2004 jetta, the timing is automatically set by the ECM.

keep it running for short times