VW Jetta

I have a 2002 jetta diesel which has a plastic dipstick tube. We ordered a new tube from the dealership and installed it. The old tube had gotten brittle so we had to carefully break it out in pieces so that no pieces fell down into the engine. To install the new tube I simply grabbed it with both hands as close to the base as I could and simply pushed it down firmly until it locked into place. Note that it does take a great deal of pressure to get it to click into place! Hope this helps if you have a similar set up. Note: If you have to break the old tube out, to prevent pieces from falling down into the engine you could carefully stuff a rag down into the hole leaving it hanging out so that when you were done you could carefully pull it out to bring any pieces with it! (as I remember a new tube at the time was only about $15)

remove the front bumper lights and slam panel

remove all the hoses, connectors, cv joints, exhaust, power steering pipe, fuel pipes

undew the 3 engine mounts and drag it out the front with the gearbox

The 2013 Volkswagen Jetta runs on regular unleaded.

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. You can also disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes, then reconnect it. The codes will clear, however if there is a problem in your system, the light will come on again after about 50 miles.

Night time.

I took mine to a local shop $1200.00 US

Manufacturers took condensation into account when they designed your AC system.

The water you see is supposed to exit the system through a drain tube usually located about half way up the passengers side firewall and hangs down, it is the source of the little puddle of water you sometimes see under your car after the AC has been on.

When the tube becomes plugged the water from condensation will accumulate until it overflows into the passenger compartment.

To remedy this slide a piece of wire up the tube until the blockage is gone and water flows down the wire, you can do the same with some compressed air.

More than likely, and, You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Which filter are you referring to? The enginge, cabin or pollen filter? The engine filter On driver side there is a big plastic box. Remove two screws from backside and pivot off. Remove old filter install new.

You need: Phillips Head Screwdriver, Nutdriver 10mm and 13mm (or ratchet) *with an extension of 5-7" Thanks if you are reading, but I got it. Still in case the next person asks... Above the drivers side headlight is a foot long black assembly (actually two pieces) marked with a "light" symbol. (If you look down between thtat casing and the battery casing you will see a metal bracket and a bolt that holds down the fromt of the battery). You only need to remove the right piece of the black plastic assembly, but undo all screws and lift gently about 1". You can slide it to the left for more play, the two pieces are held by a molded clasp, separate by pushing the right piece and twisting slightly. Lift out and remove the right side piece, and if not already done push the left piece off to the left for more space. Next inspect the battery casing. Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the front left corner. Now the front and sides can lift out away from the rear panel. The right side is not attached, only clipped in place where it meets the rear piece. Pull upwards to undo. The left side has molded clasps where it meets the rear piece as well as the clip on the bottom. Remove the whole casing from right to left so you can undo those without breaking them, and lift the casing out, along with the battery insulation. Set aside. The bolt holding the battery can now be accessed more easily, it is a 13mm. You may need an extender for your nutdriver, or other, to reach the bolt. A 7" flexible worked nicely. Loosen the bolt all of the way, and set parts aside. Pull the battery out from the lip holder on that holds opposite side in place. Be sure to slide the new battery under the lip when installing, use the metal bracket and 13mm bolt to secure the front of battery. Replace the insulation around the new battery. Re-assemble the battery casing and replace the 10mm holddown bolt, and then re-attach the hood cable housing right side piece by pushing the molded clasps behind and under the left piece. Tighten the four screws.

coil---3---4 pack--2---6 plug---1---5

You more or less can't. You will be a stand alone or piggy back ECU and program that instead.

look under the throttle body on the front of the engine there s a sensor with 3 wires going to it that is the engine coolant temperature sensor

should be on the flex tube between the air box and throttle body

left front wheel

Use a Mercedes specific or OBDII generic scan tool.

The most effective method involves the use of a craftsman 22 oz. ballpeen hammer.

When you change the oil, you drain it from the filter where the sensor is. It takes a moment for the new oil to circulate to the filter and let the sensor know you have oil

Full Synthetic 5w-30

I have a 2001 cabrio, not a Jetta, however, the dealer never wanted a key code only vin number. Hope this will help you out.

Nope. Your car is to OLD SCHOOL to mingle with the NEW SCHOOL stuff. Is that clear ?

My 1996 does this all the time it seems like. Under the hood there is a relay that goes out, it burns and shorts out. It's about a 30$ part but it should work. This relay is located under the hood and under the black plastic cover in the back it controls the blower motor. Hope this helps!

There is also a 40 amp maxi fuse in the same area under one of the two smaller rectangular black covers that controls the fans. Check it also. Hope that helps too!

Removal Disconnect the battery ground cable. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the dual converter Y-pipe. Remove the starter motor. Remove the engine rear plate. Drain the engine oil. Remove the 16 oil pan bolts. Remove the oil pan. Remove the oil pan gasket. Installation Apply a bead of Silicone Gasket and Sealant in two places where the cylinder block meets the front cover and in two places where the rear main bearing cap meets the cylinder block. CAUTION: Correct alignment of the oil pan is critical. Position the oil pan gasket. Position the oil pan and install the 16 bolts. Tighten the bolts in three stages: Stage 1: Tighten the four corner bolts to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Stage 2: Tighten the remaining bolts from back to front to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Stage 3: Check all bolts for correct tightness. Install the engine rear plate. Install the starter motor. Install the dual converter Y-pipe. Lower the vehicle. Fill the engine with 5W-30 Motor Oil. Connect the battery ground cable. NOTE: The cooling fan should cycle at least one time. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Stop the engine. Raise and support the vehicle. Retighten the oil pan bolts from the back to front to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Inspect the oil pan gasket for correct alignment. Lower the vehicle.

yes it is