Car Stalling Problems

It Sounds like it has a corrupted moral sensor on the right side.

Now that I have been informed that this is a real question, I'll give my opinion: The "SEVERE DUTY" Crown Vics such as yours came with 2 different 4.6 motors. So this may not matter in your case. However, the original motor mounts were subject to heat damage from extended idling. There are revised motor mounts with heat shield to prevent this from happening. Should yours have been weakened, and the engine shifts too far when making a right turn only, it may be extending a harness too far, or stressing out a connection that will make a positive contact once the centrifical force of the turn is relieved, it could stall the motor. Therefore, check your motor mounts and jack up the right side of the motor around the mount area, but not directly on it. With the motor running while your doing this you can observe any abnormal movement. If this is the problem I would repolace all motor mounts as other weaken when one goes bad. I do sincerly apologize for offending you, but the thought of a former patrol car killing, did kind of remind me of "Christine."

Try replacing your IAC motor (AKA: idle air control valve). This worked on my car, and the part usually runs from $20-$80. Usually simple to install, just plug it in!

We were having the same problem with our 1983 Nissan (or more correctly Datsun in those days). The culprit turned out to be a loose connection at the positive battery terminal (not the terminal itself, but the multi-spade connector that's piggy-backed to it). It would slide off under the centrifugal force caused in the turn and diconnect power to either the fuel pump or the ingnition. Since the starter and switch are powererd by the main battery cable, the engine would still turn over and you'd still get dash lights, but the car wouldn't restart. I cleaned the contacts in the connector, added a few wire-ties to keep it secure and we were back in business.

Hope that helps.

Temperature factor includes inlet temperature of the mixture and temperature of the combustion chamber walls. Increase in inlet temperature of the mixture makes the charge more vaporized than the required at the end of compression. This increases the tendency of knocking. Temperature of the combustion chamber walls plays a predominant role in knocking. In order to prevent knocking the hot spot in the combustion chamber should be avoided. Since, the spark plug and exhaust valve are two hottest parts in the combustion chamber; they mostly converted in to sources of autoignition after a long run. Furthermore, most of the two wheelers use air cooling which is not at all efficient to cool these two hottest parts. This is the main reason because of which a single cylinder engine could also have knocking problem.

Pressure factor includes the final pressure of fresh charge that it can reach after completion of compression stroke. Obviously, high pressure again converted in to high temperature factor and boosts the knocking process. No doubt, pressure factor is not at possible to control externally. It depends only on design parameters of engine.

Density factor comprises mass of inducted charge and fuel-air ratio. A reduction in the mass of the inducted charge into the cylinder of an engine by throttling reduces both temperature and density of the charge at the time of ignition. This decreases the tendency of knocking.

The flame speeds are affected by fuel-air ratio. Also the flame temperature and reaction time are different for different fuel-air ratios. So tendency of fresh charge to reach up to its self ignition temperature directly depends on the composition of that charge. As the carburettor or injection systems are the only responsible components for fuel-air ratios, it is advisable to keep them cleaned and tuned to avoid knocking.

Time factors consist of engine speed and spark timing. An increase in engine speed increases the turbulence of the mixture considerably resulting in increased flame speed, and reduces the time available for preflame reactions. Hence knocking tendency is reduced at higher speed. Adversely, prolonged high speed increases working temperature of engine and increases amount of hot spots, so prolonged and constant high speed should be avoided to minimize the knocking. Wrong spark timing always leads to incomplete combustion. This incomplete combustion can be possible either as pre-ignition or post-ignition. Both these incomplete combustion increases knocking tendency.

Miscellaneous factors include location of spark plug and octane value of the fuel. In order to have a minimum flame travel, the spark plug is located at proper place in the combustion chamber. DTSI, DTS-SI and now three spark plugs (Pulsar 200) are few of the examples where efforts have been made to reduce flame travel by igniting the fresh charge from different locations, of course in proper manner. High octane fuel has the higher self ignition temperature and low preflame reactivity which reduces the tendency of knocking.

• Metallic sound in harmony with engine firing
• Sound comes out after long running
• Sound disappears at idle speed
• Drastic drop in fuel efficiency
• Drop in power output
• Engine run with high temperature and noise

It is very true that one has to develop some skills to identify the particular sound of knock. Many videos are available on youtube where you can have idea about knock sound and you can save your engine by identifying the knock in preliminary stage. I hope this will be useful to you all in future. Waiting for your valuable comments.

Same problem, feel the pain. So far we replaced the easy thing like the fuel sensors under the back seat. Made no difference, it would do the same thing. We are replacing the fuel pump, will keep you posted to let you know if that worked.

That was the only thing we could come up with when all sensors are working right, and the darn thing (pump) isn't working at all times. Usually if you are trying to start the car and it doesn't start you can open up the fuel tank lid and listen for the fuel pump running, if it isn't you can bet it is done for even if it starts going again after it decides to work again.

Truly frustrated with you, wait until you have to buy won,$$$.

had same problem .turned out to be my icm ,ignition control module

try this when your car dies ,pure a bottle of cold water on the coil pack .if it starts rite back up then your icm is overheating and is now heat sensitive ,so you have to replace it .

i had the same problem recently and well i replaced the fuel pump found it o e bay really cheap regular part shops have it for almost $300 but it was under $150 and then replaced my air boot the big hose that is connected to the engine and the air filter due to the fact that it had a little gap and a little too much air was getting into the engine.

It could also be water in the gas tank.

well.....this might help,

I have a 93 mx3 with the v6 from the mx6 swapped. But anyway...I had the same distributor issue on my 1.8 v6. Replaced the distributor, then literally about a mile away from the shop is stopped working again. First question, do you have platinum plugs in there right now? if you do... get rid of them. they help burn out the distributor. second. I found that there alot of time is faulty wiring on the actual harness leading to the distributor. Ever since i swapped the engine however I have not had that issue. also make sure you are using a genuine Mazda distributor. Aftermarket ones or remans don't seem to last as long. I have a friend who works at Mazda and that is what they say. Also have a friend that owns a 95 ford probe v6 and he has gone through 5 distributors, and when he put the Mazda one on he hasn't had an issue yet. hope that helps. sorry for sloppy typing.

the primary thing to look at in your situation is the ignition module; the conditions you described sound like it is bad. when it cools down... it works. this so, try replacing it, or there is a remidy using a GM 4pin module (actually 5, the fith is the mounting ground) that is outlined in mx3 website in the forums, and probetalk... hope this is helpful to set you in the right direction!

>>>My MX6 dies aftewr about 20 minutes driving. An electrical specialist diagnosed the ignition module in the distributor. When it gets hot, it fails.

I am an auto tech and have been working on a 98 mpv 3.0l and cannot seem to get a good aftermarket Distributor for it. I am on the 3rd one now. 2nd one came damaged because it wasnt boxed very good.( All the same brand)

The problem seems to happen after the diagnostic connector is grounded to check the timing. After that it seems to weaken something in the Distributor and the the car will only run for a minute or 2 until the dist. heats up then it stalls and won't start until it cools down. I have spoke to someone from the company tech line and he had no answer for me.

The customer does not have a lot of money to spend on this old vehicle but it looks like we will have to go to Mazda to get something that will last. Way too much junk out there these days.

Now I have to go figure out why my new carpet cleaner won't run. WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO QUALITY CONTROL !!!!!!!