Car Stalling Problems

i have a 2000 dodge work van 318 engine when i start in the morning it stalls several times until it warms up then ok

This sounds like the anti-theft mechanism. Inside the ignition switch, there's a circuit that tells the computer that the key was properly used to start the car. It's basically just a resistor that completes the circuit and the computer is looking for this after the car starts. If the resistance is not seen, the computer assumes that somebody has hotwired the vehicle and shuts the engine off. When I install remote starters on Aleros, I have to first figure out what the resistance is using a multimeter. Then a relay activated by the remote starter must break the existing security circuit and switch in the proper resistor value. If you're having a problem starting your vehicle after a remote starter has been installed, or the remote start feature does this, bring the car back to the installer and have it checked.

yes

we had the same problem. we changed the Crankshaft Position sensor, and also the camshaft position sensor. changed ignition coils, and the module under the ignition coil, and still had the stalling problem. an auto mechanic bought it from us and he discovered all that it was was a pinched wire under the ignition module.

Try a simple tune-up. Plugs, wires, air filter. That is a good and inexpensive place to start.

drink the water out of the radiator...

Sounds like possibly a bad alternator, a lot of parts stores test them in, or out of cars for free. It test them better out of the car, they are very easy to remove in a subaru.

You need to check the crank sensor at the harmonic balancer. when it gets hot, it stalls the engine. let it cool for a few moments then it starts again. If it's hot and stalss and won't start; try spraying water around the balancer, to cool the sensor. Then see if it starts.

Either the linkage between the pedal and the throw-out bearing is damaged or the clutch fiber disc is worn and needs replaced. The worn clutch is most likely. Consult a mechanic, this is not a shadetree operation. The clutch allows the spinning crankshaft of the engine to be "interrupted" before it get to the transmission. Your engine and transmission are both turning when the car is running and in neutral, the clutch basically stops the the transmission from receiving power and this allows you to choose a gear, letting out the clutch allows power back to the trans, and this allows the power to get to the wheels through the chosen gear.

torque converter lock out engaged.

YES

I found it to be the throttle sensor on mine. Cost me about $40. And put it on myself. It's looks like a small wire harness under the end of the airintake hose coming from the airfilter box.

Before going any further verify that none of the spark plug wires are old or damaged or located near the wire to the knock sensor. Wrapping them in aluminum foil can also eliminate this problem. If this doesn't help, follow normal diagnostic procedure.

according to my information a code 35 on 1993 gmc is an idle air control system problem/idle speed actuator.

most likely the ignition coils are going bad (the long cables that go to your spark plugs)

their price is an average of 60 to 80 bucks for all 4 and you can find them at any auto part store

Its on top of the fuel tank. You will need to lower the tank to access it

This could be a few things, especially if the vehicle is idling too low. Check your PVC hose, particularly the elbows for wear and tear or any holes or collapsing. You can repair these temporarily by wiping them off well to remove dirt and wrapping in electrical tape until you are able to get the part replaced.

Again depending on age could be choke not working properly Could be a vacuum leak check connections depending on the car.

Could be 1 of 2 things: failed choke heater itself of 12vdc not getting to the choke heater. There is a relay (located on the RH fender wall under the hood) you should have 12 volt anytime the ignition is in run.

Common problem on 700 and 900 series volvos. The fuel pump relay begins to occasionaly fail after 10 years or so. The relay is located behind the change tray/cig. lighter... near all of the fuses. It is the tall white one, kind of to the drivers (left) side. Volvo charges about $85 US dollars for the relay. I got the same relay through an independent repair shop for $55. Good for another 10 years or so.

There could be many reasons including fuel filter igition components ect. If you go deeper than fuel filter then it would probably be cheaper to invest in a 1/2 hour of diagnostics from a trusted local garage. Dealer prices are usually out of reach. Good luck

We have a 1987 Toyota SV21 Ultima that had a similar problem. We could drive for about 20 minutes normally and then the car would cut out and not restart. If we left it for half an hour or so it would start and drive normally to get us home. The fault was in the igniter box. Over the years the wires inside had fractured but remained in contact when cold. As it heated up during use expansion caused the broken ends to separate, breaking the ignition circuit. Soldering the wires together fixed the problem and it still runs very well after many years service. Hope this helps.

it could be a fuel filter maybe the one in your car is old and you need a new one

A dirty or defective idle air control valve (IAC). When you initialize the a/c, it sends a signal over to the Power Control Module(PCM)(Computer) and it energizes both the a/c clutch, and the IAC to raise the idle. If not, then the compressor is bad. The IAC valve(MOTOR)just needs 2 b cleaned (after it's off) with a Good Carberator cleaner-clean it until the cleaner runs clear & the pintel valve -inside-moves freely.

when kick down the gas pedal to accelerate, the car downshift but then stalls and then engine stays rough until i turn off the engine and restart it then the engine runs normal again till the next kick down.

There is no single simple answer. Your manual, or a manual from your manufacturer's website will give you some troubleshooting suggestions. I can detail a list of the most likely problems, but you are not likely to understand or be able to act upon the information without extensive step by step information. And, I don't even know which model and pump you have. Several different pump designs may have some problems more likely then others. Check the nozzle on the end of the wand to make sure it is not clogged. Check that your hose delivers a proper water flow. Most other problems require significant pump knowledge... the unloader can be stuck, the valves can be damaged or full of trash, the key-way could be sheared, the oil end could be "fried"..ie bad bearings, broke pistons or retainers. Seals are not usually the cause of a complete lack of pressure..especially if there is no leaking water. Some pumps use easy start valves that may fail. All pumps have a kick-back or restrictor outlet valve that will inhibit pressure development when held open with trash.