Car Stalling Problems

No gas. Low fuel pressure from fuel pump. dirty fuel filter. any other symptoms you know besides just stop running while driving IE over heating running rough.

There is an issue with your electrical power steering (EPS) hydraulic fluid pump. You need to check the condition of the belt (on both pulleys) as it's being driven by the engine. If you REV the engine, while turning the steering wheel, do you feel a significant amount of resistance? You may have to check both valves in the hydraulic lines as well.

PS: I assume that you have sufficient amount of (clean) power steering fluid in the reservoir already.

Do you have the Engine light ON? If so, Get a OBDII reader from Wal-Mart or any store that you can return it if does not work for you. Plug it in under the driver side dash boot. There should be a port to plug it in. Fallow the OBDII instructions. You will get some code (i.e. P0301, P3402). Then check the code in the Book (The book comes with the OBDII Reader). ************* I had this same thing happen while driving. There were two problems. One, my fuel filter was clogged and needed to be replaced. Two, there is a mesh bag connected to the fuel pump (inside the fuel tank) that was extremely dirty and restricted fuel when the fuel was lower than 1/4 tank. Both are do it yourself jobs, if you have a good repair manual.

Trouble code P0207 means: Injector Circuit / Open - Cylinder 7 Most likely cause is fuel injector is clogged or leaking

Sounds like the catalatic converter is either pluging up or starting to fail. Either way if this is the problem it will either start having worse performance or just stop runing entirly.

I had this same problem and it was a faulty fuel injector. Check to see if it is wet around any of your fuel injectors.

I have a 1992 q45 I had the same problem i changed my back cats and it still did the same thing coul it be my front ones to

I have a 1995 Mazda 626, I have a similar problem. It dies right at 15 seconds after I hit the gas and remain at 3500 RPM, and I can hardly get up a hill. I have already changed the fuel pump, the injectors were fine, the O2 sensors were fine, changed the air filter, no clogs in the fuel delivery system (yes changed the fuel filter too), changed the plugs and wires, changed the fuel regulator... the only thing left is the catalytic converter is plugged... it's as if my car has asthma, so I'm looking at the Throttle position sensor. Will keep you updated.

I have this cutting out problem and i think Ive managed to diagnose mine to a faulty fuel pump as you can sometimes hear it activate but when you don't the car does not start. but anyway this is what i tried. fortunately my sister has same cars as me, maybe some of these will help you diagnose your problem.

- throttle position sensor

- crankshaft sensor.

- camshaft sensor

- fuel pump fuse/relay

- lambda sensor

- Cat could be broken up and blocked exhaust system causing poor flow.

could be a bad fuel pump or fuel filter. have a friend crank the car as you bang on the fuel tank.this can some times free up the trash on your fuel pump.

Call 911 and wait until the Highway Patrol/State Police arrive to assist you.

I worked my through a similar symptom. However, it wsa accompanied by a Check Engine Light with OBD2 code as Lean Fuel Mixture on both the left and right banks (left and right rows of spark plugs). I troubleshot through ensuring all air oriented hoses (vacuum lines, PCV hose, caps, etc) were secureand in place. In my case, it turned out to be a cracked PCV Valve hose located around the rear of the 4.0 litre V6. 2 things can be done to check and troubleshoot, one of which is not HIGHLY recommended, but it works. First, the tedious and "safe" one. Visually inspect all areas that the block might be leaking air INTO the engine, thus bypassing the mass air flow sensor, not allowing the computer to accomodate EXTRA air that is "leaking" into the intake - the computer does not sense this extra air, so it does not allow for additional fuel to be injected to round out the mixture. Remove the PCV valve and plug the hole. If the engine runs smooth and seems to be okay (and it helps if you can erase the code at that point), it would then fall upon you to thoroughly inspect the PCV Vale hose assembly for leaks. Now, a way many might sneer at due to the method, but effective all the same, is the OTHER way. Get a can of starter fluid, and spray VERY LIGHT mists of the fluid at assorted areas that MIGHT be leaking. The engine needs to be running. If there is an inbound airleak, the engine revs will slightly increase, much as if you had sprayed it near the actual air intake. If you hear a slight rev increase, start inspecting that specific area. It may be as grand a fault as a leaky intake manifold gasket, or it could be as minor as that PCV Valve issue mentioned above. Of course, in your case, it might be something altogether different, so these bits of troubleshooting gems just food for thought and trial and error. Good Luck.

The firing order on any engine, including the NISSAN Z24 2.4 Liter Four-Cylinder engine is always started at #1 spark plug. On the Z24, it is the exhaust side. If you crank your engine with the distributor cap off, the rotor will rotate, of course. When you stop cranking the engine, the rotor will always stop where the #1E plug wire should be on the distributor cap. So when checking the timing of the engine, always go off of the #1 plug on the exhaust side. Disregard the comment about always stopping on #1E, it simply is not so!

The intake and exhaust plugs fire at the same time so in most cases it doesn't matter. Under some conditions, one set of plugs is disabled. If I remember correctly, it is the exhaust plugs that are disabled, but this is only at high speeds so it shouldn't matter for setting the timing. The Nissan Service Manual says to use the intake plug.

the engine is mounted on a rather square cradle, which in turn is mounted to the car body by 4 large bushing/bolt combos which wear out, and cause a creak or pop. the problem could also be because the body mounts at the cradle have rusted out, which can only be solved by welding and/or plating. i know, bwecause I've had to do my 1990 that way.

No, the only thing it would do is make the engine run hot. However, if the leak is large enough and low enough, the coolant could leak out fast enough to destroy the engine. You should get it fixed.

Maybe the computer,is happening with my 98,Fuel system ok ,batt ok.

pancakes you little idiot

Does your car have overdrive? Does it stall when going uphill? If you answered yes to these it is possible that your transmission kick down isn't working.The kickdown basically detects when the car becomes under load and shifts the transmission down a gear.

This seems like an odd question.

Are you sure it's got one? Most Chrysler products use a speed/density system to calcuate airflow instead of using a MAF. If it has got one, it should be in the plastic intake duct somewhere between the air cleaner (air filter housing) and the throttle body.

Test for fuel pump pressure at the back for the throttle body at the schrader valve. Your fuel pump may be going out. This is the #1 problem with these cars.

i have a 2000 dodge work van 318 engine when i start in the morning it stalls several times until it warms up then ok

This sounds like the anti-theft mechanism. Inside the ignition switch, there's a circuit that tells the computer that the key was properly used to start the car. It's basically just a resistor that completes the circuit and the computer is looking for this after the car starts. If the resistance is not seen, the computer assumes that somebody has hotwired the vehicle and shuts the engine off. When I install remote starters on Aleros, I have to first figure out what the resistance is using a multimeter. Then a relay activated by the remote starter must break the existing security circuit and switch in the proper resistor value. If you're having a problem starting your vehicle after a remote starter has been installed, or the remote start feature does this, bring the car back to the installer and have it checked.

yes

we had the same problem. we changed the Crankshaft Position sensor, and also the camshaft position sensor. changed ignition coils, and the module under the ignition coil, and still had the stalling problem. an auto mechanic bought it from us and he discovered all that it was was a pinched wire under the ignition module.

Try a simple tune-up. Plugs, wires, air filter. That is a good and inexpensive place to start.

drink the water out of the radiator...

Sounds like possibly a bad alternator, a lot of parts stores test them in, or out of cars for free. It test them better out of the car, they are very easy to remove in a subaru.

You need to check the crank sensor at the harmonic balancer. when it gets hot, it stalls the engine. let it cool for a few moments then it starts again. If it's hot and stalss and won't start; try spraying water around the balancer, to cool the sensor. Then see if it starts.

Either the linkage between the pedal and the throw-out bearing is damaged or the clutch fiber disc is worn and needs replaced. The worn clutch is most likely. Consult a mechanic, this is not a shadetree operation. The clutch allows the spinning crankshaft of the engine to be "interrupted" before it get to the transmission. Your engine and transmission are both turning when the car is running and in neutral, the clutch basically stops the the transmission from receiving power and this allows you to choose a gear, letting out the clutch allows power back to the trans, and this allows the power to get to the wheels through the chosen gear.