Check Engine Light

well there is two ways one you can do is take your battery cables off and leave them for 5mins other option is to go to autozone and they will reset your codes for free

On the dash a yellow light that is in the shape of an engine on the lower left side of the information center.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

Wave properties. these allow it to be reflected, or partially reflected by various surfaces.

Fuel pump relay

or

Knock sensor if stall after maybe 2 miles

YES IT CAN SO GET IT FIXED

there could literally be thousands of causes...most auto repair places will read the code and tell you what is wrong for free...

Funny, you could have had a trained dealership technician, like me, tell you what the problem is for less than you spent on that EGR valve. Penny wise and dollar foolish my friend.

Or simply do some more trouble shooting. Many times the engine code doesn't tell the whole truth on any vehicle. Could be a DPFE sensor or a vac regulator. More that likely the DPFE sensor easy fix. Good Luck

See "Related Questions" below for more

Misfire can be caused by many different types of problems with your valves. It could be burned or leaking valves, carbon build up on the valves, weak or broken valve springs, worn valve guides or lifters, broken worn or bent rocker arms or pushrods, worn camshafts, improper valve timing, or worn pistons or rings. A misfire is basically when the cylinder is not producing enough air-fuel mixture properly, so your valves may not be supplying the proper amount of air into the cylinder, for the compression to be strong enough for combustion. Faulty: plug, plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another. Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings.....

In a Manual, your car can stall at red lights because the engine is not receiving gas, this is why the klutch is important.

In Hybrids the engine intentionally shuts off to preserve gas. Then an electric motor starts the car moving when you accelerate again, filling the time gap between when you press the accelerator and the gas engine kicks in.

Pull the 4x4 lever or turn the 4x4 nob depends on what year the truck is

If I'm not mistaken, the code you are refering to is for the Secondary Air Injection system. The system injects air into the exhaust if the car during the first few moments after you start the car. It's purpose is to assist in warming the catlyitic convertors to operating temperature. As this module is part of the emmissions system, you may be covered under Ford's emmissions warrantry. You will need to check with your local Ford service center to determine if your car still applies to this "Emissions Warranty." If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

I have been told that one of the two vacuum solonoids located on top of the EGR and regulator valve assembly are in line with the air pump. I haven't found out which one yet (I need to replace it and am doing on-line research to determine which one it is). If one of these solonoids is malfunctioning electrically, it could also cause the same problem. I paid $400 for a new air pump to be installed and still have the P1413 but the ford diagnostics say "change out the pump". So apparently something is awry here. The mechanic who changed the pump got advice from one of the mechanics at a different shop who is more of an expert, and I'm relaying what I was told here. I hope it helps both of us. I'm going to go to Ford and determine which solonoid it is and replace it myself. They are both "on top" of the pipe where the EGR 'master regulator' is, and have both vacuum hoses and electrical connections to them. One of these two is likely to be the cause.

there is also an electronic relay mounted to the side of the air pump. I had this problem, changed the relay out. However I still got 1 spurious P1413 after I verified the electric air pump would spin. So maybe there are multiple causes here. I took the precaution of using electrical contact cleaner on the wiring before I re-connected it also, just in case. But if there is a problem between the relay and the computer, I bet this would cause it as well.

First, if it is something like a loose gas cap, just tighten it and it will reset itself in the next 100 miles or so. If it is something else, like a leaky gas cap it will never reset. But to reset the OnBoardDiagnostic (OBD)Computer... Go to eBay and search "obdII" and buy one, they run about $50.00 including shipping. There are two types, ISO for Chrysler and some Japanese, and the other one for all the others like Ford and GM. There are several that are both, that is the kind you want. Be sure to email the eBay seller and ask if it is used with your year and model. (1996 was a changeover year for OBDII technology, so this advice may not apply to everybody--but the dealer service guy can tell you over the phone--ask him if it is OBDII compliant.) When you get it, you just plug it in and let it cycle 4 or 5 times and it resets everything. You then have to drive your car for 50 to 100 miles for the onboard computer to test everything, and in the meantime your car will fail smog checks because it has no history in the computer and the smog test procedure demands a history even if there is no pollution. Cut and Paste http://search.ebay.com/OBDII for a list of them for sale on eBay. Most units come with a list of generic fault codes so you can tell what the problem is, this could be very helpful.

Borrow or buy an engine code scanner to find out what code is stored. The fact that the "check engine light" is on is a huge clue. That may give you all of the information that you need to figure out what's wrong.

Use an automotive computer code-scanner to read the stored code. Then you'll know why the "check engine" light is on.

Have vehicle scanned at auto parts store--most will do this free

it has to be reset if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes should do it

The code is spelled out in the MB Diagnostic manual or the 91 MB intro book

An engine cylinder misfire has been detected if your check engine light is flashing on and off

If the check engine light is blinking that means an engine cylinder misfire has been

detected

turn key off and then on , leave it in run not start position, at the same time hold brake and gas pedal for 20 seconds it will reset the oil light ..

I believe so.

You should take it to a MB daler and tell them to reset the computer, it shouldn't cost you anyhing. If the light does not go away, there may be a problem with the sensor.

That would be the check engine light. See related question below.

This is not a "Generic" OBDII code.

That means that it means diferent things on diferent car makes.