Check Engine Light

You will need to pull the negative lead from the battery for 10 minutes.

Or you can just wait for a couple of days and it will reset on it's own, as long as you fixed the reason for it lighting in the first place.

It must be some kind of vacuum leak. The best thing would be to use smoke (evap)machine to find the leak. Also, fords are notarious for bad intake gaskets which cause those lean codes.

disconect negative battery post for approx. 2 mins or take to auto zone. free both ways.

There are multiple issues that can trigger the check engine light in a Chevy S-10. A bad oxygen sensor, MAP sensor, or a loose gas cap can all be a reason that the check engine light is on.

There are hundreds of reasons for the check engine light to illuminate. Ask your local auto parts store to plug a scanner into the DLC (Data Link Connector) and read the code(s) that are active.

Code PO420 is catalytic converter efficiency low bank 1, sensor1. You did not state as to the year,make and model of the car as well as the engine size. I am a member of IATN and the majority of there fixes was related to someone installing an AFTER MARKET converter. There is a big difference. I strongly suggest that you go to a repair shop with the proper equipment as well as a very good tech to diagnosis the problem.

Disconnect the battery cable for about 10 minutes and the light will be reset. If it comes on again after driving, it's a recurring problem and you can get the codes read and hopefully fix the problem. Disconnect the battery cable for about 10 minutes and the light will be reset. If it comes on again after driving, it's a recurring problem and you can get the codes read and hopefully fix the problem.

Crawl under the care and count them.

Trouble code P1294 means: Target idle not reached

The most basic model - like I have - is very simple: Handheld unit with 2 buttons, single line LCD display, 2 foot long cable with standard connector.

Oh yeah, and it's orange ;)

go to autozone and have them do it it is free. or try disconnecting your battery for a few mins.

Disconnect battery and leave for about 10 min. Then reconnect. The check engine light went away on mine.

Light is supposed to come on as soon as the ignition key is turned on. It should not take 20 seconds for the oil pressure to reach enough pressure to turn the light off. Change brands of oil filers you are using and make sure you are using the correct weight oil for this engine. Try a Purolator. If that doesn't help, check the oil pressure sending unit. It that checks out OK, have the oil pressure checked to see if there is a problem with the oil pump.

To answer specifically what is wrong with your vehicle will be impossible without more information. The check engine light comes on when the PCM(computer) sees a problem somewhere in the engine or transmission control system. A sensor may have failed, a solenoid or actuator may have failed, a wiring problem may have developed, or there could even be a problem with the PCM itself. You will have to have a diagnostic run on the vehicle.

i have the same truck and same code , it seems that there is a problem with the egr vsv electrical valve connected to the egr and it's not the modulator valve the one that looks similar to the egr but plastic this one has two hoses to it and an electrical connector

The Battery is dead... same thing happend to me... the only thing keeping your car going is the Alternator trying to charge everything... my car did that, ran every bit of 5 mins then shut down cause the battery barely could handle it, then jumped it again and kept foot on gas and it stayed running, turn car off then car died and wouldn't start again unless i jumped it.

Turn ignition key half way while holding odometer button 15-30 secs.turn back off while still holding odometer button. Turn car on and it should be gone

have vehicle scanned to determine problem The MIL light flashing is generally because of a mis-firing cylinder. You should be able to feel this condition as well. The truck will hesitate or shake while accelerating. The two common things to have fail on these engines are the spark plugs and / or coli packs. The truck has coil on plug ignition, meaning there is a coil per cylinder. The replacment coild are generally about $50 and the plugs anywhere from $2 - $20 each. You should expect to pay about $700 to have the plugs replaced. The coils are a good bit easier. If this sounds expensive, ask someone who has done it in their driveway and how long it took them (SEVERAL HOURS) to understand why it is so expensive. You would generally pay anout $75 - $85 at a service shop to have the problem diagnosed. You can buy your own scanner for about $100. I would recommend buying a scanner. If the MIL light does not stay lit, the computer did not store a code and you will have to drive it with the scanner plugged in to see which cylinder is mis-firing. The one I bought was from Actron I thin, bought it at Autozone or Advance Auto, do not recall which. If you have any mechanical skills at all, you should be able to do a few of the coils, but the plugs are a PAIN IN THE BUT. If you can find out which cylinder is mis-firing and need to replace a coil, the cylinders are numbered as follws: from front to back, starting on the passenger side front plug (closest to the head light) is #1. So plug/coil #1 is in the front, with 2,3,and 4 following on the same side of the engine. #5 is the front driver's side, with #6,#7 and #8 moving towards the back of the car. Hope this helps Pat

Problem with emission system--have vehicle scanned to determine problem it could me alot of things, take it to your nearest auto parts store to get it test on the obd 2 scanner, and that will tell you your problem first of all it could mean a number of things. but assuming that you dont have any major problems yet, considering its a newer car, you'll want to check the basic's on your car, check the engin oil level, check to make sure there is water in your ratiator(it might be over heating you can check that, not as accuratly on the odometers in your car), and that the alternator is charging the battery(you can also check this on the odometer like the rest). The odometers in your car for the basic things you need to know, if any of the one's shown are not normal then you'll want to check those as well, but the way it sounds you might just want to ask someone to take a look at your car, show you the things you need to check and check the basics to get you a quick fix unless its something more serious.

you should know that owning a car means you need to keep an eye out for problems, and every so miles you will be adding things and checking your tires to see if they need air, there is some maintance. I hope this helps you :)

-christy

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

Sounds like you have a cylinder miss or vacuum leak. Have the ECU scanned with a OBD2 scan tool to retrieve the code that has been set. You will then know where to start looking.

Yes, most vehicles have an on-board system to check for vapor leaks in the fuel system.

Yes, most vehicles have an on-board system to check for vapor leaks in the fuel system.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

You need to find the source of the small fuel system vapor leak.

Legacy 2.2 liter:

1-3-2-4

coil pack terminal layout

and cylinder layout:

3 4

1 2

Front of car

Loyale/XT/DL/GL/GL10 1.6 and 1.8 liter:

1-3-2-4

distributor rotor turns counter-clockwise

cylinder layout:

3 4

1 2

Front of car

2.7 liter (XT-6) and 3.3 liter (SVX) 6cyl

1-6-3-2-5-4

2.7L rotor turns counter-clockwise

cylinder layout:

5 6

3 4

1 2

Front of car

Justy 1.2 liter 3 cylinder

1-3-2

distributor rotor turns counter-clockwise

cylinder layout:

belt side 1 2 3 flywheel side