Check Engine Light

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

Likely a faulty coolant temperature sensor. Change the sensor.

On most vehicles you need a scan tool.

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

If the check engine light is blinking that means an engine cylinder misfire has

been detected . You can drive the vehicle in for repair , just avoid any rapid

acceleration or deceleration because you can damage the catalytic converter

With an OBD2 scan tool.

Fixing the problem which causes it would be the first step.

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

It's on the passenger side on the front of the shifter console, the plate will pull off and then you will see the fusebox.

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

It may be the emission system maintenance reminder. there is a switch on the back side of the dash next to the left dash speaker, try changing the position of this switch.

The catalyst moniter is the rear oxygen sensor located after the catlytic converter. It sole job is to moniter whether the cat is performing corectly. It does this by comparing it's gas readings to the front (before cat) oxygen sensor readings. If it sees readings too similar to that of the front sensor, the vehicles computer(PCM) concludes that the cats are not changing the exaust gases thus are not doing their job. A catalyst moniter code can be set for 2 reasons. 1) that the catalyst moniter has failed (not typical) or 2) that the catalytic converter has lost it's catalystic properties, and is no longer working. This latter is usually the case, and requires the replacement of the catalytic converter. You can diagnose a failed cat with a scan tool that is equipped with scan display data. You can watch the voltages from the front and rear O2 sensors, after fully warming up the engine, and see if they follow each other too closely. It will be appearant, because if the catalytic converter is working properly, the rear O2 sensor will switch will have very little fluctuation in voltage, while the front will be constantly switching from near o volts to nearly a volt, several times a minute.

It could be a number of things, i would take it into a dealership, or local garage and ask them to run a SCAN TOOL to trace the proablem. It should be very quick, easy, and cheap.

First fix the problem that caused the light to come on. Then you may be able to reset it by removing the battery cable for 5 minutes. If that does not work, you will need an OBD2 scan tool to reset the light.

A lot of things...specifically that something is wrong..take it into autozone and they'll plug into it and see what the trouble code is and tell you what's wrong.

Several things can cause such a leak. Perhaps the most common is simply a loose or defective fuel filler cap! Check the gasket on the cap to make sure it's okay, and tighten the cap until it clicks after you've gassed up. You can't over-tighten it, so give it several clicks to make sure it's tight. If you have any doubt about it, get a replacement cap.

The next thing to check would be the hoses. Look for any cracks or splits, and check all the connections for looseness or breaks. Also, check the Evap Canister itself for any cracks or other damage.

From there, you'll need to check the Vapor Management Valve. With no power to it, it should be closed. If you can blow through it at all, it's probably bad. There's also a Evap Canister Vent Valve: it should be normally open.

Finally, check the wires from the Vapor Management Valve to the PCM. Make sure they have good continuity, and aren't shorted to each other or to ground. Check the wires to the Evap Canister Vent Valve as well.

If you haven't found the answer after eliminating all these, it's time to take the car to your favorite shop!

the check gas cap is a separate, specific dummy light from the check engine light, although the two may be related. I've found that the gas cap on the 03 tribute is different than any other on cars I've owned. It is pressurized, and you only turn it 1/8 of a turn to open it (counter clockwise) and 1/8 of a turn to close it (clockwise, pushing down on it a little, and turning it until it clicks). I did not install in properly the first couple of times I put gas in it, and I got the gas cap dummy light the first time, and a check engine light the next (not having the gas cap installed correctly messes with the emissions system - which is what the check engine light indicates). Both cleared once I figured out how to use the gas cap properly.

there isn't a reset button. a scan tool is required to find the cause of the check engine light coming on and the problem then has to be corrected in order for the light to be turned off. You don't need to get a scan tool to shut it off. This in some cases is an uneeded expense. Simply disconnect the - terminal of the battery for 30 seconds and then reconnect. If the light continues to come on at a later date some auto parts stores will lend you a scan tool to find out what the problem is. Good luck

From http://taawd.blogspot.com/2007/10/2007-crv-oil-life-reset-procedure.html

One of the first reasons I started blogging was to share tips and tricks I found after hours on the Internet or from other people. Here's one for 2007 Honda CR-V owners.

Recently, I took my vehicle in for an oil change but the mechanics couldn't figure out how to reset the oil life message that flashed on each time I started my CR-V.

Here's how I did it. With the car either powered on or started, hold down on the button on the dashboard for several seconds. It could take 10-15 seconds. At one point, it'll change to a display that says OIL, CANCEL and a temperature. Rotate the dial until OIL flashes then push that same button and it should reset it. Good luck, it'll take an entire minute for you to do it and you won't have to see the oil light come on all of the time, until it's time again for an oil change!

the light can come on when the gas cap it not fully tightened to at least 3 clicks

A local auto supply store can reset it for you.

Usually a problem in the emission control system - have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

Have the ECU scanned with an OBD2 scan tool.

Yes if it is totally clogged.