Check Engine Light

your check engine light comes on for many reasons. the light comes on because the ECU(car computer that controls and monitors) recognizes an error and has stored an error code. some causes could be small problems but some can be huge problems. first you need to trace your steps back. what types of repairs did you have done to it. did you start your car with the gas cap off? this could cause the check engine light to come on in some vehicles. the most common cause ive seen are, left gas cap off, O2 sensor, and misfires. you can drive your car to Autozone or Advanced Autoparts and they can plug in an OBD2 scanner and tell you what code has been stored in the ECU. after you find out what the code is it will give you an idea of what is wrong. start there

What is the code? Auto Zone does a free check with a code reader. Find out and fix or you may not pass state emissions test to renew vehicle sticker.

It is probably your EGR valve causing the check engine light. I recently bought a used 1997 Toyota Celica and had this exact problem. The new valve cost approximately $85 and fixed the problem right away.

The computer will reset after a certain number of "driver cycles" (turning the car on and off). My recent experience with the CEL after a fill-up left the light on for about three days before it finally went out on its own. I guess the stringent U.S. emissions standards and the dirty byproduct of the rotary engine left Mazda no choice...they had to overinstall the sensors. It's a pain in the butt, though. I hate driving with that light on. Maybe the gas caps are faulty. Or you can disconnect and then reconnect the battery, if it comes back on it's more than just your gas cap.

This one has me scratching my head. My 1989 323 LX has a small ORANGE light that comes on which I open the door; the purpsoe is to provide some illumination the ignition lock so you see to put your key in. The light automatically turns off after 30 seconds or if you start the car. Does your key ligth stay on after you've started the car? Cheers Malcolm

check with auto zone, mayb ethey have a book you can look at right quick i know on ours whihc isn't home this second..lol has a trouble code box on the passenger wheel well, its about an inch by an inch with a rubber cover, you need to jump two of the slots you see in there and i ain't sure whihc ones without my car eing here check withh auto zone. good luck

Generally, when you unhook the battery for a few minutes you will clear the codes but if the problem that caused the code has not been fixed it will reset the light again. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

its misfiring. check the igniton coil housing. i have gone through 3 in 1 year

Ihad the same probleme and i chanched the spark plus and cables

it can only be done with a diagnostic computer. go to the dealership. it should cost like $20 Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

I've been going through the same business for about 2 years. Check engine light usually goes on after a couple hundred miles highway driving, not around town. Last time the dealer was supposed to replace the converter but instead just recalibrated it. It's expensive and time consuming to go through this every few months. It seems to be a racket to eat money while they stall until catalytic converter is off warantee and then they can charge you $1000 to replace it. Anybody have better information or a remedy for this???? When this happened to my 2002 Rav4 I was first told that I needed to have my computer reset. $80 later I left the Toyota Dealer. 2 weeks later I was back "check engine" light on again. This time I was told the oxygen sensors were bad they would have to order me a new cat. convertor. Three days later I spent 4 hours in the waiting room while they replaced my cars cat. convertor. 3 weeks later the "check engine" light is on again. I have another appointment on Monday. I'll let you know what they say. Answer One mechanic told me that my 2002 RAV 4 needed a new O2 sensor for the check engine light on. After a new O2 sensor was installed, the RAV 4 started to shake violently, spewed black smoke and stalled frequently. Another mechanic did check-up and replaced the bad AIR-FUEL sensor. Then the car runs perfectly. The RAV 4 has only one air-fuel sensor and 4 O2 sensors.

there is no silver bullet in these cases. the engine computer needs to be scanned to find where the problem lies, and repairs made based on those findings.

it means one or more of the lights in the back of the car is burnt out or not functioning properly. (i.e. a bad ground or abnormal resistance in a bulb filiment)

It is highly unlikely for all three sensors to go bad all at once .It would take a massive short circuit or something like that,at which point the engine would stop. If three 02 sensors are not functioning and you have no check engine light,the computer is bad and has lost it,s diagnostic ability.Again unlikely,the engine would run very poorly in a limp in mode. keep checking you dtc's and testing

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Just to add to this I have a question of my own. You said it would have to be like a major electrical overload. I'm having a problem in my standard truck now that began after I stalled out. It's gotten much worse now and a mechanic friend of mine says it sounds like 02 sensors. I know I'm going to sound like an idiot, but it had been awhile since I drove a standard and I came to a complete stop doing about 45 mph while in 4th gear without engaging the clutch. The truck almost committed suicide for lack of a better term. I had to replace several blown fuses and since then it's gotten harder to start after the vehicle is warm. Everything in the starter system seems to operate correctly it sparks up and turns over, but it just won't sustain ignition after trying to start without adequate cool down time - something about not having the appropriate fuel to Air Ratio.

fuel filter

check the codes and see what comes up, that'd be where i start...

The check engine light is generally to alert you to some condition that is causing the emission control system to malfunction. This could be as simple as a gas cap that is not sealed properly to a fuel injection problem, i.e. to rich .

If the car runs normally with no noise, then try removing & replacing the gas cap correctly. The light should go out in a few minutes. If it doesn't and the engine runs normally, take the car to a service shop when it is convenient. Pepboys, Kragen and Autozone will check it for free.

If the engine runs rough, then slow down & drive carefully to avoid stressing the engine (i.e. no hard acceleration) and get it to a service shop as soon as possible - do not keep driving it, permanent expensive engine damage may result.

Unplug the battery for a night, resets the whole car. However and do need to ask why you want to reset the engine light? Another answer is to buy the $100 computer readers from Advanded Auto Parts. GIEL.

NO.your car would bog out on you if it was the oxygen sensor. Its got to be a wireing prolem for that engine light to come on or its something else making it turn on. Get your suspention checked out.

The computer has detected a problem with the emissions controls. Have the computer scanned with a scan tool. Most auto parts stores will do this for free. Once you get the code, it will lead you to the probable cause of the problem.

You may have an electrical fault code. Have the codes read by a service tech.

P1633 Keep Alive Power Voltage Too Low Indicates that the keep alive power ( KAPWR ) circuit has experienced a power interrupt . Open KAPWR circuit - damaged PCM - intermittent KAPWR circuit

You need to find a shop that specializes in this type of repair. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. I am sure I will revise this as time goes on, as it is an in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

it is poosible there was a ground wire not connected after installing the valve cover

Listed in your owner's manual. Next to the maintenance required light, you should see a small slot with a button in it. Stick your ignition key into the slot and hold it in for about 10 seconds. When you start your car, the light should be green, indicating that it has been reset. The maintenance light will turn orange automatically the next time that the mileage reaches one of Honda's recommended maintenance intervals.