Chevy 305

You should check the pick-up coil, it can short out the modules. I have ran into this problem before and was a the end of my rope. I found a pamphlet at the auto parts store and read through it and came to the conclusion that the pick-up coil was shot, replaced it and never had to put another module in.

Probably lack of die electric grease under the mounting surface of the module. This special grease keeps the module cool & lack of it could cause the module to overheat & burn out.

Yes, you can do this, by why in the world would you want to? I agree it can be done, but you will need a resistor for the hot side of the coil. Contact one of the manufacturers of aftermarket ignitions such as Accel or Mallory and ask them for the part number of the correct resistor. It goes between the wire presently connected to the BAT terminal on the HEI and the + terminal on the new coil.

I have had them fail due to heat. I used a certain dilectric grease on the underside to help dissipate the heat. If not heat, then possibly a poor ground.

The Chevy small block V8 305 cubic inch engine was manufactured between 1976 and 1996. It was used in cars and trucks.

There should be a small ball type stud that is connected to the throttle linkage, beyond the throttle cable. The detent cable should push into that ball and stay fit there. Make sure you have the correct holding bracket for the detent cable and adjust the cable after installing if need be.

heades, bigger cam, valve springs....all depends on what you want to do with it

They run at a higher temperature so the oil breaks down faster.

look in your toilet when you flush,the rotation is a vortex a tornado is a vortex when your sink drains,the rotaion is also a vortex on the other side of the equator,the rotation is reversed Edit: I came across this answer and I think the person was asking about actual locations. There are many vortexes in Arizona, google Arizona vortexes. Many people go to them for meditation and healing purposes.

starter motor, fuel pump, alternator, (possibly ECU) and battery need to be attached and wired up properly, be careful and make sure your engine stand can withstand all the vibrations

it is a knock sensor that is used to adjust the ignition timing.

yes

# 1 piston is on the driver's side front plug. Turn the engine over until that piston is at top dead center, (TDC) on the compression stroke. Now look inside the distributor. The rotor will be pointing at #1. At about 11 o' clock on the distibutor. www.boxwrench.com NEW ANSWER: The first answer is right, and if the Distributor is in correctly when you

look stright down on the cap #1 will be at 5oclock on the cap.

Yes. The HO engine in the Monte Carlo SS had higher compression, bigger valves, and a different cam.

on an inline engine (all cylinder in a straight line) it is the cylinder that is at the front(water pump end). On a V engine (2 separate banks of cylinders) it will be the cylinder that is farthest forward. if you stand to the side you will see one head is a little bit in front of the other. you may also find cylinder identification on the intake manifold near where the ports mate to the heads.

The recommended spark plug gap on a 1996 Chevy C1500 with a V8-305 engine is .060"

Replace it.

turn your crank until the number one piston is at the top , u can check this by taking out the number 1 plug and stick a crew driver in to fill the piston at the top,then make sure your crank is lined up two dots next to each other and your router mark is set on the number 1 spark plug wire. this should put u in time. Tjohnson

Replacing a timing chain on a small block Chevy The dot on the cam will be at 6 o'clock the dot on the crank will be at 12 o'clock the dot will line up with the chain and sprocket installed correctly .When this is done the engine will auto maticly be at top dead center. If you are doing this chain and gears in the vehicle and don't have the oil pan removed,you will have to modify the timing cover;the groove on the bottom that fits the oil pan gasket needs to be trimed at the inside top of the lip diagnal about a 1/4 " both sides.This clearances the cover to slip past the pan,it still won't be easy,I use a beed of sillicone in the groove and glue the cover gasket to the cover with contact cement or trim adhesive,then i take two #1 Philips screw drivers,start the cover bottom groove on the pan,take the two Phillips put one through a bolt hole on each side of the cover and in the coresponding hole in the block push downd on the screw driver while pushing in on the timing cover until it slide over the pins, put all the bolts in tighten then install the crank seal.

Assuming you have a V8 (5.0 or 5.7,TPI or TBI) its as simple as taking all the oil pan bolts off and pulling the pan off. Should be the same on a V6.

Need to know the year and engine size.

It depends on what you SHOULD have put in and what you DID put in and the age of the engine. Most of the time it won't make much difference.

one of the main reasons an engine runs on or diesels can be related to the fact that it is idling too fast. Set the idling down and see if this imporoves

1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 with 1,3,5,7 on the left side and 2,4,6,8 on the right side. The distributor turns clockwise.

it is on the drivers side of engine block screwed into block near side freeze plugs it is a 2 inch round sensor with a wire on top center of sensor

you have eight main bolts. 10

You need more information. What kind of car,engine,year. All we can tell is that could be driving a elephant. The two "humps" you metion are older modeal heads from the 60's. They are indeed called camel humps. They can be found in 1.94 or 2.02 intake valve. If you have true camel hump heads, keep them! They are fctory performance heads and are worth a mint. There should be no accessory mounting holes in the heads, ie. holes for brackets such as alternator, etc....