Chevy Astro

duct tape

That's what an alignment is for. Take it in to a good front end shop that does nothing else! Don't go to a dealer or a tire shop. They won't really be doing what's in your best interest, they just want to sell parts. A good front end shop will know how to make the repairs without spending a lot of your money, and they usually end up doing a better job.

Could also be a Ball Joint gone bad.

It needs adjusting

First shut all the doors then use your light switch to turn off or on dome lights if that doesn't work it could be a bad door pin switch

Does it turn over? Does the starter crank? Why did you replace the battery? It takes 3 things for an engine to run, fuel, air and spark. If you replaced the battery let's assume you have spark, but do you have fuel? What I mean is are you getting fuel to the engine? Your question needs a little background info about why you replaced the battery first and what is going on now. Your description here is too vague to make a good diagnosis.

From inside the van after removing dog house. 1/2" socket on long extension

There's a good chance you have a blown bulb. You'll need to step out of your car with the flasher signal on and look at the front and rear lights to see which one isn't on. Remove the cover for the light that is not on and get a replacement bulb from your local automobile parts shop. Simply push in on the bulb and twist it to remove it.

there are only two items to check here; transfer case, and the front differential. both expensive. To test, lift all four corners on jackstands, put vehicle into neutral, spin front tires and listen; ANY noises from front indicate bad front diff ($250 from boneyard). Next, to check transfer case;start engine/put into gear. An AWD unit 'floats' power to both front and back, like a diff. And are notorious for failure in two ways- one, they seize sending 100% to both axles, and will blow entire drivetrain. two is your symptoms, no power output to (front) axle. There are clutches inside...like a mini-bike!!! LOL AWD transfer cases are $$$$ ($800 & up At junkyards-$1400 new). I solved this problem by converting to 4X4. I swapped out parts from an old blazer s-10..(transfer case-4x4 shifter unit-front differential-front driveshaft- vacum parts/pieces. and it all BOLTED TOGETHER. driveshaft 's-10' had to be 4.5" longer.. had to 'modify' a brace under floorboard with hammer/torch for new transfer case to fit. that was 60,000 miles ago, without so much as a burp. good luck.

there are only two items to check here; transfer case, and the front differential. both expensive. To test, lift all four corners on jackstands, put vehicle into neutral, spin front tires and listen; ANY noises from front indicate bad front diff ($250 from boneyard). Next, to check transfer case;start engine/put into gear. An AWD unit 'floats' power to both front and back, like a diff. And are notorious for failure in two ways- one, they seize sending 100% to both axles, and will blow entire drivetrain. two is your symptoms, no power output to (front) axle. There are clutches inside...like a mini-bike!!! LOL AWD transfer cases are $$$$ ($800 & up At junkyards-$1400 new). I solved this problem by converting to 4X4. I swapped out parts from an old blazer s-10..(transfer case-4x4 shifter unit-front differential-front driveshaft- vacum parts/pieces. and it all BOLTED TOGETHER. driveshaft 's-10' had to be 4.5" longer.. had to 'modify' a brace under floorboard with hammer/torch for new transfer case to fit. that was 60,000 miles ago, without so much as a burp. good luck.

Remove the dog-house, drill out the rivets holding the original ignition coil, replace coil using bolts or new rivets.

Before changing I would test it, not a common failed part. Though the distributor gear is a very common wear item on these vans, I would check that. Also might be cheaper to replace the distributor instead of just the gear.

my 1993 crown vic shut off with out warning while at stop light only once in a while

Check the vaccuum hoses going to your manifold- The one that controls air flow direction to your AC is probably split Astroman

if your taking about the engine locking up, then it mostly happens because of low or no oil... you might have had an oil leak and lost oil.

Remove glove box 4 bolt behind it. remove right and left lower dash panels. Undo 4 clamps 2 in the back 2 under glove box wiggle to break seal. its off

It is not adjustable.

It is not adjustable. A solid state sensor is used. This sensor will only work while moving and you should keep the car moving forwards constantly for a minimum of 10 minutes before you rely on the reading as the reading is taken from time to time, not constantly.

If there has been a frontal impact (crash) the sensor or wiring may be damaged.

The vents are controlled by vaccuum from the intake manifold. Check for a split rubber vac. hose on the manifold- Hope that helps.

i don't think you can. I'm pretty sure that idle speed and fuel mixture is controlled by the computer on the 1987 tbi models.

It has a chain. No recommended replacement interval.

Two bolts on front of alternator are easy to get to, bolt on back is hard. Unbolt the tranmission and engine dipstick tubes from each other up top. Jack up and remove right front tire. Seperate engine dipstick at side of cylinder head. Bolt is a 10mm head that can be got to inside of wheel well.

If the car is designed to be driven on the right side of the road, when you stand in front of the car and look at the driver, the driver will be on your right. Left and right sides of the car are determined by sitting in the driver seat. I usually just refer to the car sides as driver side or passenger side so as not to confuse anyone.

If your engine turns but does not start, first check your interier fuel reset button located, inside under dash driver side on firewall between brake pedle and fuse box. If red button is up, push down to reset. This is there for the event of a colloison or need to do repairs on fuel system. Second, check for spark. To do this remove a plug wire and hold to a ground point (best done with very little light) if you see spark or get a ZAP well you got spark. Third, check or replace fuel relay Located (under the hood drivers side mounted on the back side of your breather) that part cost about 12 dollars. Fourth, if none of the above works check for a fault in the manafold system. O i almost forgot dont forget about your fuel filter you should check that first. I hope that helps you. And if that dont work, make sure that you check fule all areas of your fuel system (pressuer, regulator, fule pump etc.

Faulty: spark plug, spark plug wire, ignition coil, ignition module, fuel injector are the most common. Coolant leaking into a cylinder is another.

Internal engine problems such as burnt valve, broken valve spring, bent push rod, worn rings

It depends on what year you have. Some are in the back of the head and others are in the block where the block coolant drains are located. Some have one knock sensor and others have two.

Electrical... try plug wires

They are all threaded into the exhaust system at various points. You will find one after each bank of cylinders before the catalytic converter and one after the catalytic converter for a total of three.