Chevy Cavalier Z24

You shouldn't need to take off the intake manifold at all so, to answer your question, no. However, if it the exhaust manifold you mean, the answer is still no. It should be a multi-layered metal gasket and the only reason to replace any gasket is because it is damaged.

If The Guage reads full all the time, chances are that it is toast. You'll have to replace the Gas Guage with a factory or aftermarket replacement. Auto Wreckers often provide a cheaper alternative, if you don't want top buy new. Honestly.......Give your gas tank a kick! The float in the tank might free up for awhile.

MY 94 3.1 V6 HAD THAT PROBLEM THE DIFF WAS THAT IT READ ONLY UP TO A HALF OF TANK. WHAT FIX IT WAS IN THE BACK OF THE TANK THERE ARE TWO PLUGS PULL BOTH OF THEM OUT THEN SWITCH THE KEY TO ON YOU WILL NOTICE THAT IT WON'T READ GOOD OK THEN BACK TO THE PLUGS AND PUT THEM BACK IN. TURN THE SWITCH ON MORE TIME AND THAT WORK FOR ME.... HOPE IT HELPED

Go to cruchfield.com they have a section that will tell you. I have a 1997 Altima, and I went to Crutchfield.com and was told I had 5x7's in the front, and 6x9's in the rear. Turns out I REALLY had 6.5's in the rear(yes, they were stock) So, ALWAYS double check if you get info from crutchfield(or anyone for that matter) Chances are you have the same speakers i did. 5x7's in the front doors, and 6.5's on the rear package shelf.

The voltage in speaker wire is too small to cause harm. Plug the two wires in. If the speakers work the wires are correct. If the speaker doesn't work try them the other way.

ANSWER voltage does not cause harm no matter how high. amperage is what causes harm. speakers will work like a light bulb either way. positive to negative or negative to positive. with sub-woofer you can tell if it is right, the sub should pull inward on deep base . I believe cavalier rear speakers are hooked in series positive in one speaker, negative of that speaker to positive of the other speaker, and neg of that speaker back to stereo

MAF went bad. Installed a new Saturn MAF (129.99) which solved the issue completely. No pending/current codes. No Stalls. Runs great.

From Mike Watkins at ClubGP.com:

I've snapped so many studs on my car I can do them practically in my sleep.

Here's what you'll need to do:

If you have access to basic shop tools, and compressed air, this will go unbelieveably easy. If not, it's going to be a little tough, and I would even go so far as to recommend taking it to a repair shop to have them do it. The small amount you would pay someone will protect your sanity if you don't have a good selection of tools.

With that being said, let's move on to what you'll need to get the job done...

First off, I'm going to assume you're replacing a stud on a front wheel, so this is the procedure I'm going to give you. If it's a rear one, the concept is the same, but they're somewhat easier.

Tools you'll need: 15mm deep socket Ratchet and/or breaker bar Air impact gun with 19mm socket Jack Jackstands Air or electric angle grinder Good size hammer 1/4" punch (drift)

-Get the car elevated and remove the wheel, and also the caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor. -Rotate the hub so the broken stud is at approximately the 2:00 o' clock position -Take your punch and hammer and smack the remainder of the broken stud out of the hub. -Take your angle grinder and grind a small portion of the knuckle to allow for clearance of the replacement stud, and also grind grind a flat spot on the side of the base of the new stud. This will reduce the amount of material that needs to be ground off the knuckle. -Once the stud can pop thru into the hub, take a M12x1.5 lugnut with an open end and install it on the stud upside down with the taper facing you. Start it snug so the stud starts into the hub squarely. Take your impact and while watching the backside of the stud, tighten it up till it's drawn in completely. Your impact will probably just stop at this point. Reverse the impact, and remove the nut. -Reassemble your rotor, and caliper and reinstall your wheel. Torque all lugnuts to 100 ft/lbs and re-torque them again after 50 miles.

Even to a novice, this shouldn't take much longer than a half hour.

I've got it down to under 10 minutes.

Another approach - less work but requires right tools: Remove wheel, brake caliper and disc. Knock the old stud loose with a hammer. On the inside of the hub there are 3 bolt heads that hold the bearing assembly in place. Using a deep socket and a cheater bar for leverage, loosen these about 1/2". This allows enough clearance to remove and replace the bad stud. Tighten up the 3 back bolts, pull the stud into place using a stack of washers and a wheel stud nut, and you're in business with no grinding required.

that car has a rev limiter to make ur tach go higher find and eliminate it

200 Horse Power. The 5.0 HO in the 1991 to 1993 Thunderbirds had the same engine as the 1994-95 Mustang GT. 1993 Thunderbird with the 5.0 HO, had the same cam as in the 1993 Mustang Cobra. Only that year has it. The cam reduced Total HorsePower, but gained in Tourqe. 5.0 HO Thunderbirds are one of the best and rarly seen MN12 plateform. They Make Great Sleepers....

The motor could be bad. Takeit to a garage. I have a 92 sunbird convertable I had the same problem Its the relay switch located in the trunk on the left side of the pump mounted to the back wall of the trunk with one screw Unfortunatly it is a very hard junkyard part to find and you have to buy a new one from a dealer and it costs about $120.00 or so (very high i thought for such a little part) so I f your ready here is a simple easy and cheap way to fix it. First pull the conector plug fromp the pump shold be two thick wires orange and brown i think put a wire in each one and run it to a good baterry one on ethe positive and one on the negative ( don't matter which one it works both ways one way makes it go up then switch wires other way goes down that will tell you if its the motoe or not. Then if the motoe works then go and get a high output 3 way switch and wire it your self deleting the relay and mount it in you dash then you have a new switch and you top should work good luck1

cheak all the fuses. there should be on and it proubley blew

The electric motor is bad.

I had the same problem and it was the top cylinder that are finish i replace the top cylinder and the problem was solved. It depend where you live it could be a $300. to a$500 dolars fix. i got the cylinder from the convertable guy on the internet

Have a nice day gerrybelca@yahoo.com

I thought it was a major issue, too. One day I was talking to a friend with the engine running. I pressed the rocker switch and the top started to move. I found it wouldn't work with the ignition shut off yet the relay clicked...try it with the key in the "on" position.

99 kw - 135 hp

12 watts

Im betteing one of your motor mounts is broken and making the car shake. does the engine move when you gun it in neutral?

ajust the idle of the car.

The car has no idle ajustment it is controled by the PCM check the motor mounts and check your idle control motor. Also have you intake and plentium checked and cleaned also run some fuel injector cleaner every tank full.

dirt420ba BE SAFE!!!!!

use a razor blade and slice a small slit the size of the wire in the rubber boot that the brake cable or throttle cable goes through, it may be easier to put the wire through the steering columb boot. after u put a slit in the rubber boot just push the wire through.

Step on that silver button on the floor

One is the connection to the transaxle (speedometer cable) The other two are the starter wiring harness connectors. One snaps into the top of the starter there should be a connector that you slip it into. The other connector goes right below that on the bolt. Slide it on and tighten.

It could have failed due to several causes. If I were you I would check the fuses. Look at the wires for any obvious short circuits. Make sure the window and other moving parts are not jammed physically. Bypass the switch to rule that out. I might use a tester to see where power is and where it is not. Then get a repair manual and look up how to test the electric motor that drives the window. But if it is getting power and not moving then it likely needs repair or replacement. So, the short answer to your question is that it quit because of a bad fuse, or shorted wire, or bad switch, or bad motor, or jammed part.

Probably.

I Have a 1997 Eclipse GS. There are two small speakers on the front dash near the windsheild. These speakers are 4 inches. The ones in the door are 5 1/4 because I actually took it apart and measured the speakers. The ones in the back or side panel are 6 1/2.

Try adjusting the clutch. Never downshift to slow down, press the clutch and use the brake to slow down it will save your engine and clutch. Downshift to pass or to rapidly speed up but be sure to have the revs up higher than when you were in the higher gear.

check all the whiring check all the internal gaskets and when it dies pull the codes fron m the computer check all the whiring check all the internal gaskets and when it dies pull the codes fron m the computer

An Automotive Water Pump That Is Bad Will Leak Out The Shaft Where The Pulley Goes. Or The Shaft Will Break Off. Otherwise You Have A Different Problem. Your car will overheat or not even start. You will smell antifreeze and or notice you have to put in alot of fluids. You will see leakage under the pump or around inside of engine compartment. Buy a new one that has a lifetime guarantee and you will rest easier.

You should be able to pull your e-brake up ONE click on these cars. This should turn off day-time running lights without actually setting the e-brake at all.

The starter has 2 post on it. A big one and a little one. The only thing that goes on the big post is the +hot+ battery cable and the kind of big wire leading to the Alternator. All of the other little ones go on the little post. Cavaliers had a recall on this area, a relay was added to stop the ignition switch from melting and possibly catching fire while you sleep. One rule of thumb...If the wire dont reach, it dont go there.

It will growl steadily louder as you travel down the road.

The fusible links on my '89 Z24 are located at the starter solenoid where the end of the positive battery cable attaches to the large terminal. There may be a fusible link near the positive battery cable in the 10 gauge wire (not the heavy gauge one). Good luck.

You could possible have bad electrical components causeing the problem. (PCM/TCM, MLPS, or faulty wireing) Macs Transmissions (Houston, TX) 281-394-4951 Macstransmissions@gmail.com