Chevy Cavalier Z24

Replacing A Chevy Cavalier Heater Core Q. I have a 1997 Chevy Cavalier, automatic, 4 cylinder with A/C, floor shift console, 4 door sedan that I need to replace the heater core. I need instructions or pictures of how to dismantle the dashboard to install this. Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rick Replacing A Chevy Cavalier Heater Core A. Well, the first thing you have to do is take out the instrument panel. Replacing A Chevy Cavalier Heater Core Remove or Disconnect 1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument panel. 3. Drain cooling system. 4. Raise vehicle. 5. Heater hoses from heater core. 6. Lower vehicle. 7. Heater core outlet. 8. Heater core cover. 9. There is a mounting screw located in a recess in the center of the cover. 10. Heater core mounting clamps and heater core. Install or Connect 1. Heater core and heater core mounting clamps. 2. Heater core cover. 3. Heater core outlet. 4. Raise vehicle. 5. Heater hoses to heater core. 6. Lower vehicle. 7. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. 8. Instrument panel. 9. Negative battery cable. Replacing A Chevy Cavalier Heater Core 1. Valve Housing Cover 2. Heater/Blower Module Bolt 3. Defroster Valve 4. Mode Valve 5. Heater-Vacuum Tank 6. Heater Module Mounting Bracket 7. Heater-Control 8. Heater Valve Lever Link 9. Defroster Valve Actuator 10. Heater Case 11. Heater Valve 12. Mode Valve Actuator 13. Temperature Valve Clip 14. Temperature Valve 15. Heater Core Shroud 16. Heater Core 17. Heater Core Strap 18. Heater Cover 19. Heater Outlet 20. Heater Core Shroud Seal 21. Heater Core Tube And Mount Seal 22. Heater Core Seal 23. Heater And A/C Control Switch Harness 24. Defroster Duct 25. Blower Motor Bolts 26. Blower Motor Isolator 27. Blower Motor 28. Blower Fan 29. Blower Resistor 30. Heater Case Seal 31. Blower And Air Inlet Case 32. Mounting Seal 33. Air Inlet Housing 34. Vacuum Harness http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl503f.htm

This is just a secondary brake line in case something would happen to your primary line. Instead of bleeding the brakes with the bleeder valve, chock the wheels and slightly unscrew the fitting on the brake itself while a friend gently pumps the air out of the brakes. Make sure between each brake you top off your brake fluid.

the bleeder is on the passenger side of the truck. use this to bleed both of the wheel cylinders. i have had to find out the hard way on my 1984 Mazda b-2000

6x9 all around

An evil spell. A hex is a minor curse. A hex can be anything minor from losing your favorite thing/clothes, to flunking a test you studied for, to having a run of bad luck.

It also means 1/6. As in a hexagon.

It sounds like the rear caliper is frozen up. If it doesn't move you can't bleed it and it won't operate the brakes.

5x100

Throttle position (TP) sensor circuit, very low signal voltage.

After the car starts and immediately stalls and goes dead, just leave the key on and wait about 15 mins. , then turn the key off , then start the car. You may have to try this a few times if you dont wait long enough. (I'm not sure of this part but dont do anything electrical such as open doors,push brakes,blow horn, ect...)

The transmission and wheel assembly must be removed. Not a DIY job, unless you have the skills.

in the front,by the grille and the front end,open the hood,look right under the front end piece

I had the same problem and it was the driver's rear shock tower had rusted in a section and was allowing water to seep in from the wheel well into the rear when it rained or snowed. I would definitly get that checked, or if you can re weld some metal there to do it yourself. Hope this helps.

go to crutchfield or walmart and buy the adapter harness for you wiring and follow the directions.

Answer

i just put in a CD player in my 88 bronco, like the other guy said get a wiring adapter it will make all the speaker hook ups easy. however mine didn't come with anything for the power when i looked up the wiring diagram it was wrong, but i figured it out the wires from your new stereo will have a yellow wire which is the constant power and connect that to the yellow/black from the bronco im pretty sure that's the right color which ever is the fatter gauge. then your going to have an allumintation wire and the accessory wire coming from the bronco but the new stereo will only have a red for the accessory power since this is an older truck you need to connect the allumination wire and the accessory together or else your dash lights will no longer work. i know this cause when i put the stereo in my 85 ranger i didn't connect them and never had working dash lights

Check for power and ground at the tank. If it is okay then the sending unit is most likely the cause.

ro my knowledge you cannot change them to disc, and for the records you wouldn't want to change them there drum brakes for a reason

A.K.A Hydramatic, A.K.A PowerGlide. Also known as an Automatic Transmission. Hope This Helps.

1-2 hours

6 3/4 inch or 6 1/2 most 6 1/2 will fit it is a very popular size.

Torque Converter Clutch

Either get a repair manule or go to autozone.com. Sign in/sign up (it dont cost anything) then go thru the clicks to get your repair info you desire....but that info is there.

well if it is the same as a 99 which im sure it is get a 3/8 drive ratchet a 6 inch extension a wobbly 3/8 to 3/8 and a 5/8 plug socket than remove and replace each, one at a time so you dont mix up your plug wires

the tranny wwill bolt to the block if its a different type of trnny u got to find every tihng else

In the fuel tank.

cam cover is on the left side, the bolt that holds it on is on the right side, loosen up the bolt and tap on the bolt will cause the cover to pop off

The best thing to do is buy a Chilton's or Haynes manual. There are two gaskets associated with the intake manifold. The upper plenum and the lower plenum. A lot of times it's just the upper that is leaking. It's fairly simple to unbolt and change. The lower involves removing the upper plenum, injection system, and other components. Buy the book.

take your vin and title to the dealer or a lock smith