Chevy Cheyenne

5500 lbs

maybe its automatic transmission fluid

A car might stall when shifting from park to reverse if the idle is set too low. It is also possible that the engine stalls because it is not fully warmed up before shifting from park to reverse.

Vortec 4.3 should be 200 hp, however, it didn't come out until '94. Standard 4.3 is 160 hp.

Depends on year of truck if it doesn't have over drive and even then maybe there is a vacuum line going to shift module on trans mission check and see and if so see if it came off at transmission and if not trace it up to motor

with the radio off use the seek buton to set the time

1. Check coolant level 2. Check to see if you have heat in the cabin 3. Feel the hoses and see if you feel any coolant passing thru them. Be careful the hoses can be hot. 4. Your thermostat may be stuck not allowing coolant to circulate 5. Your water pump has quit and will not circulate the coolant even with a good thermostat.

I'm no mechanic, BUT that happened on my Taurus when the fuel pump was not functioning properly. Best to take it in.

it sounds like you may have a short somewhere in your lighting wiring. its grounding out and stalling the motor.

The firing order for a 1988 Chevy Cheyenne with a V6 engine (specifically the 4.3L V6) is 1-6-5-4-3-2. This means that the cylinders fire in that specific sequence, starting with cylinder number one. The cylinder layout follows a standard configuration, with the odd-numbered cylinders on one side and the even-numbered on the other. Always refer to the vehicle's service manual for precise details and diagrams.

I would suspect a leaking brake booster. When you apply the brakes, the extra vacuum needed, causes the engine to stall. Check the brake booster vacuum line and the booster itself. You also might want to replace all vacuum lines if the car is over 10 years old.

the knock senser is located on the right side of the motor(drivers side) beside the oil pan, under the exhaust manifold. Only seen from under the truck. When you remove it be careful coolant will come out of the threaded hole the senser goes into.

It is 1-6-5-4-3-2. I hope this helps you out.

go to autozone,buy a handle remover/install tool.very simple and direct.

The switch is located under the dash on the back side of the clutch pedal its about 3in tall and white it snaps on and off. Other than a headache from being upside down its easy to replace.

well the color code would be on theinside panel when you open the driver side door at the bottom of the manufactor sticker / in your cars manul or in a book like in a chiltion repair manul on your type and year

It is highly unlikely for all three sensors to go bad all at once .It would take a massive short circuit or something like that,at which point the engine would stop. If three 02 sensors are not functioning and you have no check engine light,the computer is bad and has lost it,s diagnostic ability.Again unlikely,the engine would run very poorly in a limp in mode. keep checking you dtc's and testing

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Just to add to this I have a question of my own. You said it would have to be like a major electrical overload. I'm having a problem in my standard truck now that began after I stalled out. It's gotten much worse now and a mechanic friend of mine says it sounds like 02 sensors. I know I'm going to sound like an idiot, but it had been awhile since I drove a standard and I came to a complete stop doing about 45 mph while in 4th gear without engaging the clutch. The truck almost committed suicide for lack of a better term. I had to replace several blown fuses and since then it's gotten harder to start after the vehicle is warm. Everything in the starter system seems to operate correctly it sparks up and turns over, but it just won't sustain ignition after trying to start without adequate cool down time - something about not having the appropriate fuel to Air Ratio.

Check dark blue/white wire from knock sensor to ecm(electronic computer module)

if it is grounded or shorted to ground then code 43(electronic spark control circuit) will be set

Warm car to normal temperature.shut off engine.disconnect knock sensor.turn ignition switch to on position or run position(engine is not running)

check voltage between harness and ground(should be between 4 to 6 volts)

yes-means bad connector or bad sensor

over 6 volts-shorted to voltage or bad ecm

under 4 volts-shorted to ground or bad ecm

If it is like my 1991 caravan, turn the key on, hit the "Set" key so "P" appears on the screen, then push the select key, and you are now on time settings, use your dial to dial in the time and hit "set" once finished.

I have been having some issues with my 1999 Tahoe starting and I wanted to make sure the ignition swith was OK. I removed the release lever by pulling it straight out of its base. I did not used any tools. It just pooped right out and when replaced it sat in its proper place with a small push. Them I removed the screws that hold the bottom of the steering wheel cover to expose the wiring. if the base where the level attaches to is not damaged, or broken, it should be a very straight forward process. If it is broken I suggest to take it to a certified mechanic as there are lots of wiring in the area that control signal lights, cruise control and ignition, which means that some of the wires are "HOT." Hope this helps you. Good luck, Tizo

prob the best source would be a haynes manual. it has the best schematics and step bt step repair i have seen.

This can be found on a placard located on the driver's door jam.

Drain the coolant from the radiator

Loosen the generator (and possibly the vanepump, depending on your enginetype) enough to remove the drivebelts from the water pump pulley.

Remove the waterpump pulley 3 (bolts) in order to gain access to the bolts holding the water pump in place. Remove them as well and remove the waterpump with a prybar if necessary.

Clean gasket surface on the engineblock.

In some cases it is necessary to remove the motormount bracket next to the waterpump and tilt the engine up with a jack to gain access to everything.

Try MOTORLIT.COM

The tail light/brake light bulb has two filaments. If one of the filaments is broken, you will get either only tail lights, or brake lights. If a new bulb doesn't work, then you have a broken wire or bad connection in your plug-in.