Chevy Lumina

Estimate around $400

I had a similar problem turns out the Alternator was bad.

Bad ignition coil will cause engine to sputter and hesitate on acceleration.

Supposedly there are bypass modules....some are so that the remote start systems can function with the security system in the car....others are just strictly to bypass the security system intirely. I have seen some websites that sell these modules such as Ebay but there are some more specific car sites that sell them too. I have read a few things on this recently and it looks as though GM has used the Passkey I, II and III systems. The year, make and model of the car depends on what system was used and what type of bypass you will need.

sounds like pluged catalitic converter or egr valve

ive got the 97 3.1 and its rouhgly 30oz.

Flight discounts for seniors can typically be found directly through the booking site you'd buy normal tickets from. Any bonuses or discounts are usually applied on checkout, so you will have the opportunity to declare any discounts at that time.

Fluid goes into the pump. there's a cap you remove, has its own little dipstick too . The pump is the only component with a belt going to it that has a cap you can unscrew.

under the alternator you will see a automatic belt tensioner you use a extra long 3/8 inch square breaker bar or a 3/8 ratchet wrench with a pipe extension the pulley is spring loaded so pull until belt loosens and pulls off do the same to put back on make sure there is a belt diagram on water pump pulley cover before you go nuts trying to figure out where belt goes make sure belt is on every pulley groove or belt will chew up and fly off

Yes

An engine will flood if there's too much fuel going in because of a stuck choke, a bad spark not igniting the fuel, failed temperature sensors, bad fuel regulator, timing...the list goes on.

You don['t say what year the chev is. Call the local wrecking yard.

more than likely yes i would say espeially if its a front wheel drive

fuel system or evap? they are both near the intake, fuel is on the fuel rail going to the injectors and evap is on one of the vacuum lines that travel from the intake to the evap canister, it has a tag on it and a green cap.

Sounds like your Wiper Motor may be going bad or you have a loose connection. I had that problem with my '91 APV. If I manually pulled on them they would start working but would eventually lock up again. They would also stop working when it was raining. It turned out to be a bad electrical connection in the wiper motor. If you wiggle the wires going into the wiper motor ( WATCH OUT FOR THE MOVING LINKAGE! ) you may find that that is the problem. Replace the motor and it should work.

I would recommend it being trouble-shooted. IT may be multiple problem related. It may be a lack of maintenace problem, or a loss of fuel or spark problem, or a transmission problem-torque converter or shift solenoid problem.

On the internet? Not very likely. Go to a library as they will a lot of times have books with diagrams and how-to's.

?? well that would probably mean that you would have blown your radio ...

this could be becasue u had to turn it up so much to here the sub (unless you have an amp which u did not say ) and then the radio simply died .. that's what happens and another cause could be that may have cross the speaker wires or caused a short and also made the radio die

just what i think

I also have a 98 Lumina Sedan with the same problem. I did the full wiring check and finally narrowed it down to the turn signal switch. I noticed that if I signal for a right turn and apply the brakes, the left brake light comes on. The turn signal handle seems a bit loose but the brake lights work if you hold it up briefly (like to make a lane change to the right). Replacement part is GM OEM # 19005031 (AC Delco D6226A) for cars w/o the radio accessory on steering wheel. If radio accessory on steering wheel, GM OEM # is 19005032. It takes 90 min to 2 hours to replace (shop time at dealer is 1.4 hours).

Tune up is not specific enough. Unless you have 100k miles on your Lexus then it does not need a tune up. You should call your Lexus service department, or go to Lexus.com to find out what the specifications for the service interval you desire.

HI. not to sound like a wise a##. were the hoses internal to the tank tightened securely? the fuel lines to the rail and the return line may not be on correctly, or have debris in the orifice. also check the vapor hose. reset the inertia switch...check the fuel pump relay..possible bad fusible link. Start with obvious first...pump connections, etc. a good wiring diagram is welol woirth it..and work backwards with the signal flow

This is a really tough problem. The tie rod end is a ball and socket arrangement with a tapered stud. The tapered stud usually is a force fit into the steering knuckle. What you've done is loosen that force fit and now the whole stud is turning.

First, I have to ask if you removed the cotter key from the castle nut before you tried removing it? If not, then that's why the stud is turning. If the cotter key is out, then try using a C clamp to squeeze the stud back into the steering knuckle so you can get some resistance.

Also, you can try using a die to rethread the rusted threads on the stud.

If all else fails, you'll have to get a nut cracker and split the castle nut. Then you'll have to buy a new nut.

Rick

The best place to find a schematic for the steering column is in a FACTORY SHOP MANUAL available from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM or MOTORLIT.COM.

your engine will get hotter after you shut off the engine. the coolant thus getts hotter the fluid then expands causing the drip

any store such as auto zone or oriellys , etc