EGR Systems

P0401 "egr insufficient flow" can indicate many things, including:

1-vacuum line plugged or leaking 2-pipe from exhaust to egr valve plugged 3-pipe to vacuum modulator valve from egr valve plugged 4-passages at egr are plugged 5-bad egr valve 6-bad EGR VACUUM MODULATOR VALVE

I tried cleaning egr modulator valve, (beside/above egr)removed and tested egr vacuum & movement, inspected and cleaned all vacuum lines openings and pipes. All above did not work. I replaced the egr vacuum modulator valve. Light went out without a reset in about 30 miles of driving. Not sure if this valve can be cleaned. Retails for $69.US

According to my service guide its to the left of the Master Brake cylinder. Its black with a bit of a tower and a electrical connector to one side of the short tower

Its under the distributor on the right side of the engine

if its sticking it will set a trouble code, some parts stores will obd2 scan for free.

if its stuck shut you will have detonation(knocking) and higher than normal operating temperature(overheating/low coolant)

stuck open hard to start (cold blooded)

its not just that simple

but you can clean it with a brush and see

but since you got it off replace it and save yourself any further headaches

I had to remove the fan, shroud, serpentine belt, alternator, belt tensioner and smog pump to get access to the EGR tube fitting where it screws into the front of the passenger side exhaust manifold. The reason for removing the aforementioned components is due to the bracket that bolts to the front of the block that they attach to is in the way as well as the smog pump and hoses. It is an all day job, and you need to be patient and have a good 3/8 pneumatic ratchet and shop air available. I have a 1991 F-250 with a 5.8 and went through this exercise recently. Access to the fitting at the manifold is extremely tight.

Good Luck!

First, you did not mention why you had to remove the tube. Was it leaking because of the weld amidship were broken or leaking, etc. I just replaced my EGR tube/line last week and what I did after studying the situation and getting a good look at the way my 1992 Ford F250 with the 5.8L FI engine setup, I decided to purchase a small open end hacksaw handle with a good blade that stuck out the front at least 6 inches. I found such a saw at my local Lowes store. Now, all you really have to do is unbolt several fasteners that hold the metal tubes that run right above the spark plug wires, and unfasten the number one plug wire, the one on the right side of the engine. This is so you won't break the plug when you start sawing the end of the tube that goes into the exhaust manifold. You will notice that the tube is held on with a large nut (1 and 1/4 inch in size) and another piece that is screwed into the exhaust manifold. Don't worry about that part right now because is will come out by itself with the frozen nut. Spray the heck to the adapter I just mentioned with CRC Parts Freeze Off you can buy at your local Pep Boys or any Parts Store. Let it sit on the frozen nut and coupler that are attached to the exhaust manifold for at least one hour. Then you can cut the pipe off as close to the 11/4 inch nut as possible. After you have done that, get a 1and 1/4" socket and a 1/2" extension for your 1/2 ratchet and remove the frozen 2 inches of nut and coupler off the exhaust manifold. Before installed the new EGR Tube, try to clean as much of the threads that go into the exhaust with a small round wire brush. This assuming that you are having to remove the EGR. To install the new one, just screw the coupler into the exhaust manifold first, tighten it with the round end of the 1 and 1/4 wrench and then install the 90 degree tube end into the adapter/coupler and don't tighten the tube nut all the way yet. Next attach the nut to the EGR Vale finger tight. Align the two ends and tighten the bottom nut first until it is snug. Next, tighten the nut that screws into the EGR valve snugly. Once you are satisfied that they are in alignment, tighten the bottom nut tightly until it won't turn anymore. next tighten the nut on the EGR Valve. This will frustrate a little, but you won't have to remove anything but the EGR Tube. You will need a 1/2 inch by 8 or 10 inches in length to reach the frozen nut. Good luck and let me know how things turned out.

If NJ has an emissions standard, no. You'll have to repair whatever is wrong before the vehicle will pass emissions.

Egr valve does not cause stalling. it does not open at idle. I would look at oxygen sensor, then check the gas for water. The EGR can be cleaned, but my EGR valve is 10 years old and did not need cleaning. Also look at plugs and wires.

just off to the left and below the alternator held on with 2 small bolts one plug in on top, kind of hangs out in the air on a tube.

Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)

Possible causes:

1- Oil Leak

2- Bad Oil Pump

3- Position Sensor malfunction

Please email if you need more info:

hybrid909@gmail.com

Identify the reason to clean your performance. Then figure how it works.

Black smoke is caused by the engine ~not~ burning all of its fuel. The most common cause of incomplete fuel burn is a clogged air filter, exhaust system (muffler) or injectors covered with carbon build-up. Another cause is too much fuel entering the engine to be burned due to either bad calibration or too heavy a load.

It is usually indicative of the E.G.R. Valve (Exhaust Gasoline Recirculation Valve).

Is your gas mileage way down? I Had E.G.R. Valve replaced and the light no longer comes on.

Good luck. Thank-you for sharing.

Sounds like a good question. Usually not. The EGR has a pipe coming to it from the exhaust. If the pipe is faulty, you will hear a exhaust leak. There could also be a small tube from that same pipe going to the MAP ( master air pressure ) depends what type of car and engine. (Your question does not specify model, year, engine ). The EGR if faulty or blocked, which does happen will cause your engine to run rough, or possibly stall. Did you check for spark coming from the spark plug wires to the plugs. Take off 1 wire from the spark plug, insert a screw driver in the wire, have someone crank the engine, move the screw drive very close to a metal part of the engine, is there a spark? If no, then check your ignition. I will assume that u r talking about a 2.3L tempo/topaz. If no spark, could be the ignition module, which is screwed onto the distributor, which you have to remove to change. This happened quite often with these models. Check the rotor, and cap also. If u have spark, then check for fuel. When u r in the car, and turn the ign. switch just on, do u hear a hum from the gas tank? You could also have the fuel pressur checked from the injectors, or carb if a latter model. Is the timing set correctly? Did the timing chain break or slip, depends on the mileage and service history. Start with this, and you can always leave me a message on my board. I will check for your response. Once you give me more info, we can find the problem. Good luck Unlikely, Egr causes preburned fuel to be recycled through the intake manifold.A stuck open egr will cause a stalling condition after warm up.

I believe this is what I said in the first part. .........The rest of the information was for the person to locate what the problem is in a manner which they can understand.

It doesn't have EGR.

The EGR Valve is located on the top of the engine on the drivers side. It has an electric connection on the top and is held in place with 2 13 ml bolts. The procedure to replace is simple, disconnect the neg battery cable. Remove the electrical connection then remove the two bolts. Plug the two holes at the base of the mounting plate and remove all of the old gasket material. When reinstalling, make sure to replace the gasket. Reverse above procedure. Note: The service engine soon light should be reset because you have removed the neg battery cable thereby causing the onboard module to loose its memory.

No, The VVTi 1MZFE will not work. The physical changes to the heads and the block to accomodate the added oil passages, as well as the added sencors and electrical interfaces will not work either. In addition, the ECU is completely different. It PHYSICALLY might "fit" but without a lot of additional work, it is just not realistic. It is cheaper to just purchase the Toyota with the VVTi.

It is located on the right rear of the engine (as viewed standing in front of the car) closest to the drivers seat. It is a vertical cylindrical device about 2" in diameter and 3 1/2" tall with a connector on the top.

The state inspector showed me that it is located on the front of the motor kind of off set to the right close to the top. It has two vacuum hoses coming off it. One on the left and one on the right.

I have a similar problem (without the smoke), and I just found out that theres a problem with my Evaporative Emission Control System (EECS). I did the same as you, Cleaned EGR, Replaced TPS - and still the same problem. If you look on top of the throttle body, theres a black vacuum connector with 2 or 3 hoses that run behind and under the intake manifold (2 on mine, 97 sl1). If you pry that off, place your finger over the holes on the Throttle body, and I imagine your car would start fine (like mine) and idle normally. If this is the case, there is a problem with the Purge Control Solenoid...it dosent hold a vacuum. According to the haynes manual "It doesnt hold a vacuum and needs to be replaced." I just need to figure out how to replace it now...since its under the intake manifold its really hard to get to.

there should be 3 or four post's on it.1 of the little posts runs to the starting switch. if there is another little one,that runs to ground.one of the big posts runs derectly to the battery.the other big one to the starter. the starter SHOULD be grounded on the engine block if not,it will probably have a ground wire. to test the solenoid,turn the key to "start" (or press you're push buton,if no key) then there should be somewhere around the battery voltage going through the little post that is not ground...if not,you're switch is bad. but if you are getting current, try the post that runs to the starter. if that is also getting current(odviously while the button is pushed or the key is in "start" position) but you're not getting an engine turnover,then you're starter is bad. but if you don't get current through the starter post,check you're ground. it might be the little post next to the engagement post or, if there is only the engagement, check the metal-to-metal contact on the solenoid mount. if you are still not getting results, it is time for a new solenoid. and,also,before you go replacing the starter try taking out the spark plugs.sometimes there is just to much compression buildup.if it still doesent work,new starter!

What year is your c-class, its not 50 differant things, if you tell me what year it is, I could narrow it down to about 5 differant things it could be for you, just let me know.

the idle is set by the comp so u need some sort of programmer

Tools: 8 mm socket, 10 mm socket

Equipment: Replacement EGR Valve, Replacement EGR Gasket (metallic)

1. Disconnect the electrical fitting attached to the EGR valve. You will need to unlock it (red tab) and then depress the latch near the rear of the fitting before sliding it off.

2. Disconnect the vacuum tube connected to the top of the EGR valve using an 8 mm socket. It may be easier to remove the entire vacuum tube by diconnected it at the top of the engine as well (also 8 mm).

3. Using a universal socket joint (I found using a 1/4" drive was necessary to get the clearances around the alternator), remove the 2 bolts holding the EGR valves to the exhaust manifold of the engine using a 10 mm socket. The bottom bolt is a very tight clearance.

4. Remove the valve and gasket.

5. To install, reverse the steps using the new EGR Valve and EGR Gasket.

6. The 10 mm bolts should be torqued to 225 in-lbs

7. The 8 mm bolts that fasten the vacuum tube to the EGR valve should be torqued to 100 in-lbs.

Tip: I have found that if you loosen the alternator mounting bolts, you can get just a little more wiggle room to get a socket on the bottom bolt.