Electric Windows

Hi,

What usually happens is the plastic that holds the cable on breaks. I searched everywhere for a replacement regulator with no luck.The dealer will try to sell you the whole thing, motor and all for $200 + I found a guy on eBay selling a repair kit for $50. It took a couple of hours to get it all tore apart and installed but it works great! Worth every penny!

Hello I am adding to this, :) that usually is the problem, i just had it on mine, but i found a site with a trick to do it yourself and not spend more than 10$

http://jeepxj1998.blogspot.com/

Tip: Instead of cotter pins, i used a strong flexible wire......it was much easier to apply :)

had the same problem this week..called the local olds dealer...parts tech claims it is located under the dash between steering column and kick panel......i would love to see a picture of this "animal" as there are soooo many connectors and wires it would be so much easier to indentify

The window motor is attached to the window regulator by screws. After removing the door trim you must detach the regulator from the door by drilling-out four rivits. Then remove the screws from the old motor and install the new motor. Re-attach the regulator with bolts and put the trim back on the door.

Apparently after 36 years the window regulator needs some lubrication ! I removed the window and then the regulator and then lubed the whole of the regulator using a silicone spray. Fixed ! Getting the regulator and window back in the door was a whole other story.

There is a belt that if fed down through a motor and feeds out across the bottom of the door sill. Mine got chewed up in the motor and the fuse blew. In order to free it you must remove the drivers side panel behind the driver's seat and the motor is just above the lap belt recoil unit. There is a knob on top. By turning it you can manually wind out the belt. If the belt is too chewed up, go to a wrecker and get the entire track assembly that goes over your door and replace everything up from the motor. Use the knob to wind the new belt down through the motor and into the track. Check the fuse if the belt is not chewed up.

If your 97 is like my 98, then this is the easiest way to get out the old pw motor. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver, drill with about 1/2 inch bit, a pull strap and a ratchet and socket (i think it's a 5/16 inch socket) . Start out by removing 2 screws at bottom of door panel, then pop off black plastic by mirror, then pop off trim around buttons, remove screw by the door handle, lift straight up on door panel to get above door lock knob. After the door panel, plastic, etc... is off , you see the pw motor on the middle of the left side, you will notice the metal clamp with a pull strap around the bottom, (it is pop riveted in, cut the pull strap) you will see 3 small holes on the door (roughly 1/8 inch) drill those out to expose the mounting bolts holding the pw motor in place (hold up the new pw to see and compare bolt holes), now that is about the easiest way I can tell you, hope it works for you. Btw, to get the bolts started back in the new pw motor, you might want to use a piece of tape, or something to hold bolt in socket or you will probably drop them several times due to finger space. You understand when you see it.

justjohn9150@yahoo.com

Take the swith and door panel off - get to the motor of the window, find the live wire and "Hotwire" it using a live wire running from the plus terminal of the car battery. Do with care and patience.

where is the power window relay 1998 ford expedition

did you check the fuse in both the car and under the hood?

It is best to get the whole power window regulator assembly from the junkyard, which includes the power window motor. Cost should be no more than $40. Remove interior door trim panel by removing all screws and pulling up on the door panel. Unbolt existing window regulator assembly and slide guides from aluminum window track (you will have to uncrimp one end of track). Installation is the reverse of removal (remember to recrimp aluminum window track after reassembly). I did this repair in 45 minutes, power window worked like new. Good Luck!

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First of all makesure that both the master switch on the drivers side and the passenger sides switch both fail to operate the window.Listen closely for any sounds while activating the switches.If you do hear sounds or vibrations chances are the rollers have come off the track or some kind of binding.The next big step is to remove the door trim panel and get to the motor itself and check the connection with a voltmeter, if the meter shows 12 volts at the connector then the motor is probably shot and needs replacing, if there is no voltage at the conector then check for broken wiring!

fordf150.net or f150online.com/forums has helped me with most of my problems.

if the switch works then the widow motor need to be replaced take the door panel off and see if something is effecting the travel of the window if the motor works

The power to the window relay comes from the fuse panel. The relay should be under the shift console, left side, after you remove the small access panel. The didn't make these things easy to get to. Losing power to both windows probably means a loose of power at the fuse panel. The wire plugs in right above where you use your foot to operate the dimmer switch. To do any electrical testing you really should have basic test tools and a basic knowledge of 12 volt electrical systems.

Check the wires going thru the drivers door for fraying . Using a 12v tester, check the power going to the master switch at the drivers door.The circuit breaker for your power windows should reset as long as there isn't a dead short.I hope this helps you. Mark Thanks for helping Mark, you look like to have some electrical knowledge that I don't. I do not have a 12v tester to operate as you mentioned. Could you tell me where on the fuse panel is the one for the power windows (location)? I would appreciate. Access to read is not easy and with a flash light I could bearely read them. I could not find any abrevation close to power windows or related to. All looks not melted. Maybe there is a relay too to check or change? where is the location?. Appreciate your help. Eric

The contacts are likely dirty or corroded preventing contact at will. You can clean by disconnecting and swishing around in an electronics parts cleaner or something similar that is not water based. You will appreciate it as you see all of the dust and debris contaminate the solution. This has worked for me on Venture and other cars.

I drove one about 600k. They do not usually go bad. Once the door panel is removed, there is about 4 bolts holding an "x" type assembly(heavy metal old style regulator used by many manufacturers, including GM). Motor itself can fail, and is attached by a couple of screws, and is in a black plastic enclosure(replace the whole plastic assembly). If you live in the snow belt, and you try to lower the window when it is still stuck to the rubber moulding, it will strip out a few teeth, and will not go all the way up. Usually about an inch still open. One cure for this is to remove the "x" assembly, and take it to a weld shop. They can braze you a couple of spot drops in place of missing teeth. Basically a couple of drops of weld. You can then file them down to look like the rest of the teeth on the assembly. Grease all the teeth real well, and you will be in good shape for many years. More than likely, your problem is the latter.

Sounds like the motor is disconnected from the window, or the gear may be stripped.

== == == == go to a place that works with motors and ask what might be wrong

The window regulator is quite easy to replace. First of all figure out if you need just the regulator or the motor as well... You can buy the regulators for about $28 online (closer to $80 with the motor).

Here's a link to full step-by-step instructions including pictures:

http://www.a1electric.com/maximareg.htm

(Remember, 1989 - 1994 Maximas are all the same)

It might take you a little while on the first one to figure out just which way to bend everything to get it out, but by the fourth window you'll be a pro ;) Those regulators seem to last exactly 15 years, all mine went within 6 months of each other on my 90 Max last year, so if one is going you can probably count on the rest going in the near future. We can all thank Nissan for the decision to use plastic pully parts combined with a rough metal wire...

Good luck =)

Usually you can. If you cannot then you may want to remove one or all spark plugs to reduce compression.

Replace the motor. Not and easy job. Get a manual on your car to do the job right.

If the window motor still works then you might have to replace the window regulator. That is a common problem in the 3rd generation maxima (89-94). Hopefully this was able to help you.

This is probably due to the window lift motor going bad. Take off arm rest, inside door latch and speaker grill. Now remove the inside door panel by prying it off with a screw driver along the perimeter. Now you can see the motor inside the door. Removeall the attachingbolts and remopve the motor and gaerabox. Test it on a 12 volt source to be sure it is bad. If so, replace.

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