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Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer
The Eddie Bauer belongs to the Expedition product line of full-size sport utility vehicles manufactured by Ford Motor Company. The 2010 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer is powered by a 5.4 L V8 engine which is capable of producing 310 horsepower.
6,943 Questions
How do you get the interior 'system check' light to turn off on a 1990 Acura Legend?
usually when the check engine light comes on it is most likely to be a o2 sensor i had a 1990 legend and i had the light turned off and it came back on 5 minutes later the mechanic said it was an o2 sensor wasn't cheap to replace the part cost about 80 bucks and they charged me 75 to install because there is tool you need to twist off the sensor
Where is the ventilation air inlet filter located on a 2006 Ford Focus?
On some of these SUVs it is behind the glove box.
But it`s not a SUV
In a Focus 2006, AND in the fiesta/fusion from 2002 AND the C-Max, Mondeo, S-Max and Galaxy, the ventilation air filter is mounted next to the trottle pedal. All you need to do is to remove the trottle pedal (just 3 bolts). Right next to the pedal there`s the filter cover. It`s secured with three to four Torq screws (depending which model), size 20 (just a small one). Remove the screws and the cover and here`s your ventilation air filter
Where is the oil dipstick located on a 1998 Suzuki Sidekick?
The dipstick if you are looking at the engine is on the left side of the valve cover approximately halfway form the front and back. It is located where the cover meets the engine block. The yellow plastic grab loop may be broken off, making it hard to identify the dipstick.
That was exactly where it was on my 1997 Sidekick and it also had been broken off making it difficult to find.
It looked like it was a place to connect for a thermostat or something but no it was the dipstick.
The heater hose connection is fully inside the engine compartment - so if you have leakage inside the car, chances are extremely high the core has sprung a leak.
See "Related Questions" below for more
How can you fix the turning signals on your 97 olds cuttlass?
Did you check the fuse? Anyway, it's impossible to answer your question. Re-ask and be very descriptive about what the signals will and won't do.
How much should it cost to install a starter?
Depends on the car, How many were made, this affects parts cost. This will also affect were on the engine the starter is.
Average cars meaning car that are high production models will cost $75-$250 for the parts and then an hour or two of labor and that can run depending on the shop from $55 to $130 an hour for a best case senario to $185 to worst case of $510 dollars
Now if you have a limted production 50,000 or less the price can double or tripple, because part will not be as avalible and the designers might decide to bury the starter in the valley of the engine or some other place where it might be easier to take the engine out to get at it.
So you need to know these things before you buy the car you love, because you can fall out of love because it takes all your money.
How do you change the key-less entry code?
The instructions are in the Owners Manual that came with the car. If you don't have one, see "Related Questions" below.
Here's what my 1998 Owner's Manual has on this:
# Enter the factory-set code # Prese the 1/2 control within five sconds of step 1. # Enter your personal 5 digit code. Enter each digit within five seconds of the previous one.
Do not set a code that includes five of the same number or presents them in sequential order. Thieves can easily figure out these types of codes. Your personal codes does NOT replace the permanent code that the dealership gave you. You can use either code to unlock your vehicle. If a second personal code is entered, the module will erase the first personal code in favor of the new code.
Where is the oil filter for 1993 gmc typhoon?
Under the air cleaner housing, behind the driver side headlight.
How do you repair the air suspension on a 1985 Lincoln Continental?
Well, if its leaking and not holding air then the only solution is replacing the entire air strut if the bag is wrapped round the shock at the top, that's an air strut, unless the bag is separate then just repair or replace air bag. u can but an air strut at Suncore Industries online for about 169. but you have to pay for shipping which brings it up to around 200. any q's you can contact me at m3idnight@netscape.net, until then chow.
Thats if its a bag leaking. On mine it was the dryer for the system all four hoses were leaking a repair shop sold dryers w/ new lines for $80 i didnt have it so i used epoxy to seal mine it cost me $5. try bagmasters.com they have a system chek you can run on it. you also have 3 ride height sensors you might need to chek 2 front 1 rear and a switch in the trunk make sure its on. You can run strait power to the compressor to chek if it works if it dose then your loosing air and there are valves on th bags them selves good luck
BigD77
any questions E-Mail ME
DLPEARCE7377@aol.com
Where is ignition coil on 1999 4.6 ford expedition?
On a 1999 Ford Expedition , 4.6 liter V8 engine :
It has the Electronic Distributorless Ignition System ( EDIS ) and uses
( 2 coil packs that each have 4 towers for the spark plug wires )
I believe the coil packs are mounted on the FRONT of the engine
on each side of the " V "
HI, The best thing to do is check the basic issues that could affect starting. You have already changed the plugs, wires and fuel filter. Have you cleaned the fuel injectors with a pint or two of commercial fuel injection cleaner? Dirty, clogged fuel injectors do not give a fine spray of fuel, preventing the engine from starting easily. When the engine is cold it will missfire and stumble. When it is warm it will run better with dirty injectors, but your fuel mileage will be poor. Also, consider a new air filter. Other, more expensive issues are replacements of fuel injectors, mass air flow sensor, and other sensors that measure and regulate the air/fuel mixture, etc. hope this helpsH
Rotary compressor and scroll compressor difference?
They work on two different principles as their name implies...Rotary compressors are more common in consumer appliances and are highly efficient.
Scroll compressors are quiet, smooth-operating units with the highest efficiency ratio of all compressor types. They are commonly used in automobile air conditioning systems and commercial chillers.
For more technical details see:
http://www.fscc-online.com/%22Passing%20Gas%22-article/passing_gas.html
Where are the O2 sensors located on a 1997 Ford Expedition?
There are 4 02 sensors. For the 5.4L engine, Bank 1 sensors are on the right side exhaust, sensor 1 is in front of the catalytic convertor (tucked up between converter and the manifold joint). Sensor 2 is in the exhaust pipe behind the resonator (?-I'm really not sure if this is a second cat. conv., resonator, muffler or what...). The Bank 2, sensors 1 & 2 are in the same positions on the left side of the vehicle, but sensor 1 is a little easier to access. That's MY QUESTION: Can anyone tell me how to access Bank 1, Sensor 1??? I can see it, and I've unplugged it (with a little difficulty), but I can't get a wrench on it!
It is what is commonly referred to as the fuze box. Normally located under the dashboard on the driver's side.
How many miles can you expect to get out of a 2005 grand am?
With proper maintenance probably 200,000 miles
Starter, or motor is locked,,, Turn the motor somehow, listen for A click, if you hear it the starter was jammed, It should start, If you turn the motor and you do not hear A click try it anyway if it still will not try to start it is likely the starter
Where is the valve to recharge the ac on a 2003 expedition?
How to Recharge Your Car's Air Conditioner By Larry Carley c2007 LOW REFRIGERANT If your air conditioner is not cooling well because the system is low on refrigerant, recharging the system with refrigerant should restore normal operation. This can usually be done with a few cans of refrigerant and a simple service hose connection. RECHARGING PRECAUTIONSFirst, wear safety glasses to protect your eyes. Also avoid skin contact with refrigerant. The chilling effect of spilled refrigerant can cause instant frostbite on bare skin or eyes! WHAT TYPE OF REFRIGERANT? Next, you need to figure out what type of refrigerant your vehicle requires:
On 1995 and newer passenger cars and light trucks, the correct refrigerant is R134a. DO NOT use any other type of refrigerant.
On most 1994 and older passenger cars and light trucks, the original refrigerant was R12. R12 is no longer available to do-it-yourselfers and is very expensive. When older vehicles with R12 A/C systems need refrigerant, they can be refilled with recycled R12 from other older cars (this requires taking your car to a repair shop for professional service), or with some alternative refrigerant other than R12, or with R134a (which requires certain modifications). CAUTION: Mixing different types of refrigerants is NOT recommended. Use the same type of refrigerant that is already in the system unless you are converting an older R12 system to R134a or another refrigerant. WARNING: Flammable refrigerants are illegal. DO NOT use any type of flammable refrigerant (propane, butane or flammable hydrocarbons). Click here for more information about retrofitting older vehicles with R12 A/C systems to R134a. LOCATE THE SERVICE FITTINGS Next, you need to locate the service fittings on the A/C system. There are two: a LOW side fitting and a HIGH side fitting. The LOW side fitting is usually located on the suction hose or line that goes from the accumulator to the compressor. The HIGH side fitting is located on the line that goes from the compressor to the condenser. R12 Low Side 7/16 in. threadedß----------à R134 Low Side 13mm Quick-disconnect R12 High Side 3/8 in. threaded ß----------à R134A High Side 16mm Quick-disconnect On older R12 systems, the LOW and HIGH pressure service fittings are screw-type Schrader valves. On newer R134a systems, the LOW and HIGH side service fittings are quick-connect style fittings. The LOW pressure fitting is SMALLER than the HIGH pressure fitting. RECHARGE PROCEDURE 1. Connect the recharge service hose and valve to a can of refrigerant.
2. Turn the valve on the service hose to puncture the top of the can.
3. SLOWLY turn the valve back out to release a small amount of refrigerant into the hose. This will blow air out of the hose (which you do not want in your A/C system).
4. Close the valve so no more refrigerant escapes, then quickly connect the other end of the service hose to the LOW pressure service fitting on the A/C system.
CAUTION: DO NOT connect a can of refrigerant to the HIGH side service fitting. The operating pressure inside the A/C system when it is running may exceed the burst strength of the can, causing the can to explode! This should be impossible to do because the service hose for recharging the A/C system will only fit the smaller LOW pressure service fitting. Even so, you should be aware of the danger.
5. Hold the can UPRIGHT so no refrigerant liquid enters the service hose. You only want VAPOR to be pulled into the A/C system (the compressor may be damaged if it sucks in a big dose of liquid!).
6. OPTIONAL BUT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: You should use a gauge to monitor the recharging process. Though not absolutely necessary, a gauge will help you recharge your A/C system more accurately, and reduce the chance of undercharging or overcharging (either of which will reduce cooling performance).
A high pressure A/C gauge can be connected to the HIGH pressure service fitting, or a low pressure A/C gauge to the LOW pressure service fitting, or gauges can be attached to both fittings (that is what professional technicians do).
NOTE: Some DIY recharging kits include a low pressure gauge on the service hose or on a trigger-grip style can dispenser.
7. Start the engine and turn the A/C on MAX/HIGH.
8. NOTE: The compressor may not engage if the system is too low on refrigerant. The low pressure cutout switch will prevent the compressor from running if the system is too low on refrigerant (this is done to protect the compressor from damage due to a lack of proper lubrication). The compressor must be running to suck refrigerant through the service hose into the system. So if it is not engaging when you turn the A/C on, you may have to supply battery voltage directly to the compressor clutch using a fused jumper wire. Look for a single wire connector near the front of the compressor, unplug it and hook up a jumper wire to the battery POSITIVE terminal. This should cause the clutch to engage and the compressor to run.
9. OPEN the valve on the service hose so refrigerant vapor will flow from the can into the A/C system. It may take up to 10 minutes or more per can to suck all of the refrigerant out of the can into the A/C system. Feel the air coming out of the ducts inside the vehicle. It should be getting colder.
10. If you are using a high or low pressure gauge (or both) to monitor recharging, look at the gauge(s).
LOW pressure gauge: When the reading is between 25 and 40 psi with the A/C running, STOP. The system is fully charged and should be cooling normally. DO NOT add any more refrigerant. If the gauge is over 50 psi, you have overcharged the system with too much refrigerant.
High pressure gauge: When the reading gets up around 200 to 225 psi (R12), or225 to 250 psi (R134a), STOP. The system is fully charged and should be cooling normally. DO NOT add any more refrigerant.
NOTE: The high and low pressure readings will vary depending on the system and ambient temperatures (higher temperatures cause higher system pressure readings).
Refer to the vehicle manufacturer specifications for normal system operating pressures, and the total refrigerant capacity of the system. Most newer passenger car A/C systems do not hold much refrigerant (only 14 to 28 oz.), so you don't want to add too much if the system is low. One can of R134a typically holds 12 oz. of refrigerant.
11. If the system needs more refrigerant after adding one can, you can add a second can. CLOSE the valve on the service hose, then disconnect the hose from the empty can, screw a new can onto the service hose valve, turn the valve to puncture the new can, then turn the valve all the way back out again so refrigerant can flow through the hose into the A/C system.
When you have finished, turn the engine off. CLOSE the valve on the can of refrigerant before disconnecting the service hose from the LOW pressure fitting (in case there is any refrigerant left in the can). Don't vent any leftover refrigerant from the can. Leave the service hose attached to the can with the valve closed so you can save the refrigerant for a future recharge.
Remember to replace the plastic caps over the service fittings, and remove the jumper wire from the compressor if you had to jump it to make it run. IF THE A/C SYSTEM STOPS BLOWING COLD AIR AFTER A FEW DAYS, WEEKS OR MONTHS If your A/C stops blowing cold air several days, weeks or months after you recharged it, it means the system has a leak and the refrigerant is escaping. You should add some leak detection dye to the system to find the leak. The leak should then be repaired before the system is recharged again; otherwise you are just wasting your time recharging the system over and over again. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm
Sounds like you blew your head gasket Sounds like you blew your head gasket
It might be a fault with the anti-theft feature. Ford has had several recalls due to this. Web search for safety recall on faulty key-in-ignition chime. I had the same problem with my 1998 Ford Explorer Sport although it started chiming all by itself. On my Exlorer there is a set of 5 wires in a yellow sheath running from the ignition module to a brown connection point/harness in a very uncomfortable position directly under the steering column above the pedals. I unplugged the connection at this point. This stopped the key-in-ignition chiming but I still get the chime alerts for headlights left on, initial chime when the key is turned. The pinging, or ringing chime comes from the multifunction computer located under the dash behind the radio. Hope this help.
Another possibilityIt could also be caused by a stuck door ajar sensor.See "Related Questions" below for much more about dealing with door sensors.
On one of my older Taurus' I simply followed the irritating noise to the source, up around in the neighborhood of the fuseblock.
There was a simple wire connection to pull off and the silence was golden.
Major information: The 90's series of Taurus's all had a weak ignition lock. Once it is worn it is possible to remove the key without the ignition switch being fully locked, when this happens the "key in" chime will sound, just as it does when you leave the key in the ignition. This has NOTHING to do with anything EXCEPT the ignition switch itself and is easily serviced by replacing the lock, a relatively simple procedure.
