Ford Explorer XLS

inch and a quarter

or one and five sixteenths

I had this problem with my Villager and continue to have it with my Quest. The Villager went back to the dealer who told me that there were no problems that they could find but it was a common problem with the Quest and Villager. When I need to use the fluid I press and release the switch until the pump kicks on and the fluid sprays. It's a pain but it always comes on after 30 secs. of working the switch. There is a really good Nissan mechanic on allexperts.com who answers 5 questions a day. Sometimes you may have to wait until midnight to get a question in. I also had this same problem with my 97 Quest. It turned out to be a combination of two issues. #1: Crud in the lines, had to use compressed air and a little bit of patience to blow out and rinse the lines a couple of times. # 2 the switch on the steering column as you already know is intermittent. Since I have other issues with the van that are higher on the priority list I've learned where the "sweet spot" is on the switch to get it to work. I simply press in on the switch ( like your supposed to) then gently twist back and forth as if your changing wiper speed until the washer pump energizes. hope this helps.

It means you have 2 different problems. There is a problem with the SRS and the ABS. Neither of which I would ever recommend a novice attempt to repair. Take it to a professional for repair of these systems.

Until an expert improves this answer, a layman's view will have to do. I drive both a '93 and an '89 F-150, and am not experienced with your newer model. However, the symptom you describe is generic in nature, and I suspect is the result of a drive belt which slips only at high rpm, allowing the alternator rpm to decrease, triggering the low voltage indicating "idiot" light to come on. As always, it is possibe that the cause could be from some other source, such as, possibly, a defect in the voltage regulating circuit which reduces the alternator output during periods of high rpm. Still, my first suspect is the slipping drive belt.

Do you already have the old one out?

the engine mounts could be bad

inside side panel in rear of vehicle

Should be "peel off" type if not write back

Remove wheels
Remove caliper mounting bolts
Slide caliper off rotor
Rotor should slide off hub

replace the relay under the hood

Also check brake lights switch

had the same problem switched bulbs and worked fine

You can check your bearings by: Bearings (also called "cones") must be removed and cleaned before they can be inspected. * After the bearings are cleaned, inspect them for damage. * If a bearing is damaged, thes cause should be determine so the problem does not happen again. * Check the bearing and bearing race for pitting and other signs of damage. * Check the race for cracks due to improper fit, cocking or poor bearing seals. * If any damage is apparent, replace the bearing and its race. Also correct bearing seats. * Save the old bearing to compare it with the new one. * Bearings usually fail slowly. * Noise is the clue that something is wrong. * If a possible wheel bearing groan is heard, driving the car can sometimes help pinpoint the problem. * First, check the tires for damage and be sure they are properly inflated. Find an empty parking lot or deserted road and make slow left and right turns. * This shifts the weight of the vehicle from one side to the other. * When the weight is increased on the bearing, the noise increases. The inside tire always turns at a lower rpm than the outside tire. ** The noise from a wheel bearing that is bad will change pitch as the wheel speeds up and slows down when turning from one side to the other. ** When the outside wheel has the bad bearing, the noise will become worse because that wheel is turning faster. ** Applying the brakes can also cause the noise level from a bad bearing to become less as they contact the drum or rotor with the bad bearing. ** Spinning the wheels can be done using an on-the-car wheel balancer for non-drive wheels. * As metal is deformed or comes off the bearing races, the noise will become more pronounced. * There are two main kinds of damage to a bearing, spalling and brinelling. ** Spalling is when pieces break off of the bearing metal. The noise from spalling is a random, high-pitched sound.

The MAF sensor is always located in the ductwork between the air filter box and the throttle body.

what other engine years are compatible with a 2000 ford explorer

Depends on the model of car. Usually means there is an error or fault. Otherwise it can mean the airbag is turned of on models that have this feature. You should go to a garage and get it looked at. The Manual that came from the manufacturer should give some indicaiton of your problem.

The buzzing could be the ABS working when you step on the brake in slippery conditions. You would hear it operating to control wheel lock-up. This also may be heard without applying the brakes, at idle or when cruising for example, if the ABS system senses that it needs to build pressure. This ABS system seeks to always maintain a pressure reserve so that it is constantly ready to engage. Also see "Why are both the abs and tcs lights on your 1997 tl 3.2 constantly on with no way of turning them off?" in the Acura TL section of this website.

I"m getting ready to do this on my 2000 explorer. You should have two rivits that need chiseled or cut with a torch and a bolt holding them in. If you don't have an air compressor and tools or a ocy-acetlene torch then take it to a dealer or mechanic. Around here, 400 and under is good for the two ball joints but I would replace all four just to save on the labor costs later on. It should be around 600 to 700 ish on all four. Mechanics cost a bunch. The actual ball joint should be only about 35 bucks or so, but the getting the old one off is a pain in the butt. Unless you are a masachist then take it to a mechanic.

The starter " RELAY " on your 2001 Explorer is in your power distribution box in your engine compartment - a simple plug in . It is the # 6 relay , also in the PD BOX there is a 50 amp maxi-fuse in location # 5 for the starter relay + ignition switch Ford recommends disconnecting your battery before servicing anything in the PD BOX which means your Explorer will have to relearn its idle etc and the radio stations + clock will have to be reset.

vent door will be open to what ever setting u set it on regardless of what temperature setting you are using

Make sure the master cylinder is full of brake fluid Make sure brake is fully released--pull on pas if it foot type or push down on handle type Remove wires from switch either under foot pad or under handle

If it does not have a factory installed harness - U-Haul has a kit with instructions to tap into OEM system

There is a special ford tool you can get at most automotive stores. It is two sort of "U" shaped pieces of thin metal that you push into the four holes (Two on each side) of the radio. You should feel, or even hear a click type noise when the tool disengages from the locks holding it in. After that you will have to wiggle and gently pull the radio out. Sometimes they are really tight. Be careful not to damage the trim around the radio, its just cheap plastic.

DH

In the right front passenger footwell , behind the kick panel ( according to the owners

manual )

If you have the 4.0 liter SOHC ( 8th " character " of VIN is an " E " ) it's 210 horsepower

If you have the 4.0 liter EFI ( 8th " character of VIN is an " X " , which is an over head valve / pushrod design ) it's 160 horsepower