Locks and Latches

I had the same problem. Looking further online led me to an answer from someone to someone else about the same, suggesting to try WD40, which I did and after a little jiggling it came loose.

Climb into the rear compartment over the rear seat. Pry out the 5 retaining pins across the bottom of the tailgate cover; bend this gently up to expose the mechanism. Attach the little red extension tube that comes with it to the WD40 can nozzle and spray WD40 liberally as far up into the latch area under the tailgate as you can. Then, pulling down on the vertical release lever, jiggle the gate outwardly and inwardly. It should release eventually. Not knowing which position was locked, I tried this with the locking lever in both positions (that lever is actuated by a rod that comes into to latch area horizontally from the key socket toward the starboard side of the car).

Pardon the detail. You may not need it, but if you're not mechanically inclined you still should be able to effect a remedy on your own this way, assuming yours is the same problem.

Try pressing the outside door handle button while inserting a heavy screwdriver where the lock would normally close over the striker, and see if you can open the closed jaws with the shaft of the screwdriver. You will be simulating the action of the lock this way. After it is opened, then see what caused it to get that way, and correct that, or replace. I hope this works for you.

If you get under your car and take a flat head screw driver ( a 1/4 drive would work as well) shine a flashlight up between the radiator and the engine block. To the left of center of the hood you'll see some springs. push on the left side of the lower smaller spring. If you do it right you'll hear the hood pop.

From your question, it seems as if you're referring to the catch which the door latches onto. Honestly, take it off (IIRC, it requires a T40 Torx bit) and replace it.

There are a few ways that you can reset your 5 letter WordLock if you have forgotten the combination. One way is to use the reset tool that comes with the lock. This tool is a small rod that is inserted into the lock in a specific way in order to reset the combination. Another way to reset the lock is to contact the manufacturer and request a new combination.

1 disconnect (-) battery cable

2 remove door panel

3 remove speaker

4 unplug 'door open' warning switch

5 disconnect pigtail electrical connector for outside door lock illumination light (if u have that)

6 remove 2 retaining nuts for outside door handle and trim... lower the outside trim from door

7 unplug power door lock plunger and door handle illumination connector

8 remove 2 screws that hold the front door latch control and link to door

9 remove the three screws that hold the latch (on outside, around the v shaped cutout for pillar pin)

10 latch should come out by moving it forward and rotating the whole assembly out of the door

(goggomobil)

No not without body surgery

The key fob battery for a Honda vehicle is changed by removing the retaining screws and gently popping the rear cover off. The battery can then be pushed out of its holder and a new one installed.

I think the answer is you buy another car, the J30 stopped production in 1997.

That's easy. Of course you can. But the trick is not a slim jim. It is a coat hanger. I locked my keys in my car once outside of my work place. So I took a coat hanger, brought it down towards the sliding lock mechanism itself, and then poked up and down until I figured out where the mechanism was. Then simply slide it to the left, try not push too much of the hanger in otherwise you won't have the necessary leverage and the hanger will bend.

insert small screw driver in gap in plastic on back of key neer the metal part of the key....lift up...pull back off...and replace battery..

any questions email me at Newdl84@gmail.com

[EDIT] Just FYI the battery is a CR2032

Remove inner door panel to see what has been damaged

No

I have a 91 Wrangler with full doors. First close the window on the door. Now remove the inside door vinyl panel. The handle is attached from the inside, as you can see. Removal and replacement is obvious from this point.

Not many details, so I'll describe what I encountered. If that doesn't apply, you'll have to provide more info. My first search yielded lots of results for a broken rear door handle. Ours wasn't broken, but it was sticking. The handle would pull in but wouldn't return. Lots of detailed instructions online, but basically while inside the van, remove the 2 bolts from the handle and the bolt from the pull strap, then remove the panel.

Whilst sitting inside the van, key lock is left of the handle, with a rod connecting to the latch at the bottom. The latch has a J shaped slot with a plastic pin protruding. If pin is in the bottom part of the J, the door is locked; unlocking the door should move the pin to the top part of the J. You can test moving the rod up to lock, or down to unlock.

The problem I found was that something was binding, preventing the return spring from doing its job. The J was in the wrong position, so the door wouldn't unlock. I suspect either replace or lube the cable from handle to latch mechanism. Hope this helps. -D

if you look as youwere taken off the old ignition switch there was plastic box with a hollow circle around the ignition switch that is the immobilizer ther is a chip inside your key and they have to correspond with each other if you got it from ford it would have comewith a new one if you got it off a scrapper then you have to get that box thisis the only solution i know wja

I have a 93 prism and I used a coat hanger to open my locked door a few weeks ago. Unbend and straighten the hanger leaving a hooked end. Slide it between the window and the door, between the stripping, so that the hook end is now inside the door. I had success by hooking the lock rod that unlocks the door. I was near the door handle when I popped it.

I just carfully pryed the door fraim enough to fish a heavy gage wire in looped window winder and rolled window downI was in in about 35 sec. it was easy

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You have to slip in a slimJim and grab the latch hook and pull straight down while putting downward pressure on the hood. If you don't know what a slimJim is look it up. I would also encourage you to lalso ook up the hood latch part for your car so that you can see how the latch hook catches the lower latch cup.

You can buy the part in a kit form from a Volkswagon parts dealer. about £15 plus V.A.T. The kit includes a new barrel but you have to insert the 'keeps' from the old barrel. Beware, tiny springs that are easily lost. The 'keeps' must go in exactly the same order as the old barrel. If you do get them mixed up they have to all be flush with the barrel, on both sides, when the key is inserted. The problem is attaching the rod and paddle as there is a spring and it seems to me that the obvious way is to remove the handle itself. That is where I am up to right now. Any answers to this and I'm sorted! best of luck.

I have the same problem. I have had to take the inside off the door, and pull the metal rod back and forth quickly and hard to jerk the door open. Hope this helps

put a new latch in

If the car has been setting for a while I would start by spraying some wd40 on the latch mechanism ,if that don't help try adjusting the striker and the door alignment

Get the door open, pull the panel, adjust latch manually to diagnose or if replacement is needed

The procedure for a 2001 Avalon is quite complex. Details are posted at http://bytemaster.net/avalon . The same procedure might work for a 2000 model.