Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Generally, if the button on the shifter does not go in, there is a build-up of dirt and debris in the mechanism causing it not to move. A good amount of WD-40 or other lubricant usually helps the problem. If not, there is a good chance that the connector pin in the mechanism is either popped out or broken.

engine has to be raise of lowed or sometimes removeing the engine. it better to take to shop.

There isn't much to this removal. The bezel is basically pressed on and you must pull it off. Make sure you open the accessory power door and remove the mounting screw first or you will break it as I did. I started with the edge on the passenger side and pulled it off a little at a time gradually working my way around the entire piece several times. You may want to use a towel or glove as the edges can do a number on your fingertips. Be very careful as you work your way around the top as the plastic is very fragile and may break if you are not careful. good luck!

Remove the wiring harness from the back of your 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass blower motor. Remove the blower motor retaining bolts. Remove the fan from the front of the blower motor. Reverse the process to install your new blower motor.

first you pull off the the cowl panel and there will be a bolt under it and three on top of the fender. Then remove the front grill {there is four sctews on top of it}. There will be one or two bolts in front. then there is a bolt or two when you open the door you shoule be able to see them. then there is a bolt on the bottom of the fender at the back. Then remove the in fender bolts connecting it to the fender.

after changing anything to do with a code it has to be reset drive 100 miles to reset code

its a th200 metric. tci transmissions. about $1,500. or you can get a 350 turbo much cheaper. the 200 metric is the best choice, because it has 4 gears, and doesnt lag as much as the 350

As you accelerate and decelerate, the fuel in the tank sloshes around a bit like water in a bucket. Sometimes the fuel moves toward the sensor (showing more fuel) or away from it (showing less).

lever along side drivers seat.

Pull the turn signal lever towards you until it clicks, then let it go.

According to the Owner's Manual, some fuses are in the fuse block on the passenger's side of the instrument panel.Nothing is clearly marked "tail lights". #23 is STOPLAMPS--TCC/BRAKE SWITCH. #39 IS HEADLAMP SWITCH, TCC/BRAKE SWITCH. There are other fuse panels under the hood. One on driver's side, one on passenger's. Again, nothing clearly says tail ights. Sorry.

The best way to find out is go to your local auto parts store, ask for a haynes or chiltons manual on your vehicle. This will tell you everything you need to know about working on your vehicle.

Wait, MY roof on YOUR Cutlass, what?

I find for this sort of work, the reciprocating saw is by far the best choice. Grinder cutoff tools also work well, but make sparks. Sparks induce fire.

The battery powered DeWalt recip saw is hard to beat. Many other brands are also similar in quality and ability. Bosch, makita, Milwaukee. Cheap "Shipwreck Tools" versions- not so much...

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Bare-Tool-DC385B-Cordless-Reciprocating/dp/B002RT7K5K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1359928671&sr=8-2&keywords=dewalt+recip*

i am not an auto tech, how ever I do know that Lincolns have always had problems with their electrical and "computer chip" components. I owned an 85 town car that had similar problems. I would say it is that rather than mechanical. Here is a question for you about your car...when it WAS running, did your engine ever just die when you cut your steering wheel to far one way or the other? that happened to me a lot as well as the other. matter of fact it was that problem that tipped me off on the electrical issue. a mechanic confirmed my suspicions. it could be something else for you though, but I would suggest starting there.

The master cylinder contains the reservoir for the brake fluid. This is where you would add it on an 1990 Cutlass Supreme.

There are actually three of them on your vehicle. The first is located inside the car. Open the passenger door and look at the side of the dashboard. You'll see a roughly triangular shaped panel. Remove it and you'll have access to the first fuse box. The next two are located under the engine hood. They are located on the left and right sidewalls of the engine compartment more toward the front of the engine comparment than the rear. There are two long black engine compartment supports you will have to remove to gain access to the boxes ( three bolts on each support ). Don't worry your engine compartment won't fall apart if you remove them. Just be sure to replace them before you go driving anywhere. The fuse boxes are black plastic boxes and should have labels on them indicating what each fuse and relay inside are for.

One possibility is brake(s) locking up.

I have a 1982 cutlass supreme and the diagram in under the hood on a front panel, If not someone may have removed it.

If you are sure the fuses and bulbs are good --- there are only a few other thing that will not make your brake lights come on. One is because your brake light switch isn't working. Yes -- there is a switch that makes contact when the brake peddle is pushed down, which than lets the electrical current run to the brake light bulbs. Or wiring from the brake light switch to the brake lights have come unplugged or been damaged, or you have lost the ground to the brake light blubs (highly unlikey) if you lose the ground, other lights should either not be working in the back of the car or coming on dim etc... The Break light switch is either on the master cylinder and works off the fluid pressure when you apply the brakes, or attached to the shaft of the brake pedal itself. Find the switch itself, just look at the master cylinder and see if it has any electrical wires attacked to something on it, or look up under the dash and follow the break pedal shaft and see if you find a switch with wires attached, once you find the break light switch, you should find either two or three wire, going into the switch. If the switch is on the break pedal shaft, make sure that the little nipple that sticks out of the switch isn't broken off, you should be able to reach up under there and push the nipple in and out of the switch, have someone watch the break lights to see if they go on and off, if they do, than the switch has come out of allignment or the nipple has broken and you are pressing on what left of it, and its not long enough to work off the pedal. Next step if it still doesn't work, (and this part also applys to a break light switch if its attached to the master cylinder), disconnect the wires to whichever switch you find, making a note of how they were hooked up so they can be put back on in the right place, once the wires are disconnected from the switch hold the metal ends of the wires to each other and see if the brake lights come on, if they do, than the switch itself is bad and needs to be replaced, (alot of break light switches can be found at Pep Boys, Auto Zone etc...) if the lights still don't come on, than there is a problem with the wiring running from the front of the car to the brake lights. With a test light you can trace the wiring down and find out where the break is in the wiring , or find a bad connection that is causing the problem. Sounds like a lot to do -- but its pretty simple to test the break light switch, tracing the wiring can sometimes be a nightmare. Who knows, you may find the break light switch and find a loose wire on it, it also could be that easy. Hope this helps :-)

for safety measures after any accident the innertia swish kick on

Open trunk and pull carpeting back from the rear lights and you will see wing nuts, take the wing nuts off and pull the complete light assembly out to change the bulbs.

There are 2 bolts at the front and bottom of the rear seat just where the rear floor board begins to go under the seat. One is behind the driver seat the other behind the other behind the passenger seat. If I remember correctly you just remove those two bolts and it should slide out.

The 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme takes 18" replacement windshield wiper blades on both sides front. Note, when buying wipers be sure to always lookup your vehicle make, model and year in the application guide book at the store, or now-a-days you can Google 'lookup wiper size'.

You want to look this up because correct wiper fit is more than correct length, it's also proper attachment. Not all attachments fit all arms. Using the application guide or looking up wiper size online will avoid headaches of buying the right lengths with the wrong attachments.

With money take it to someone who knows.

Yes You will, But not as well as with the thermostat in. Also, the thermostat helps keep the motor at the right operating temperature. Removing it will impead emission controls and may reduce milage.