Radiators

Call your local parts store.

on the bottom of the radiator there is a plastic mount with two bolts on each side, removing them can be difficult if they are at all corroded. try not to break them when removing them, otherwise you will have to re-drill the holes and replace them with some bolts and nuts which is very time consuming. other than that just remove all hoses and transmission lines attached to the radiator and it should come right out.

Fill Radiator. Start Vehicle Check For Leaks, Find Area Of Leak If Any. Resumbit With More Information. Or Have Radiator Shop Do A Pressure Test On The System .

the drain plug on the 1999 jimmy is under the pasenger side up front you will see a hose coming out from under the ruber skirt follow that to the plug, or you can see it from the top with a light

I've seen a lot of it, and I don't recommend it unless you are going to one place for one reason...like Anaheim for Disney or Orlando where you can get around in courtesy shuttles. If you are used to a European bus service, you might find that in the big cities, but to get anywhere else it's train or Greyhound bus. New York City or LA you should be fine because of the buses and subway. Portland Oregon too. But, if you want to see the Great Southwest or tour the Civil War battlefields, you need a car. Fortunately car rental is pretty cheap.
You could also stay at an all inclusive resort in places like Disney World where transportation is provided from the time you get off the plane until you go home.

Oil-bottom of pan, trans same (if it has) otherwise drop pan, Radiator-plastic key bottom of tank.

replacing a radiator for a Chrysler town and country can take quit a while depending on the year of the vehicle. i believe 96 and up start to get really difficult because you have to remove part of the grill and front end to get it out. also there are many hidden screws and nuts that you have to find.

unlike the previous poster who has nothing to add but snide remarks . I am an ASE Certified Mechanic who just recently acquired a xj6 and needs a lower radiator hose and it was very easy, I came here looking fir a little extra tips, but found a smart allic who probably doesn't know how to hold a wrench...Get a lifeguy.

The radiator support is welded to the car using resistance plug welds that can be drilled out. However the new support MUST be welded back in. Also, the factory uses special primers to prevent rust from forming around the welded areas, and these also must be used. Lastly, the radiator support is stress bearing part of your cars unibody chassis. It ties all four major frame rails together to keeps them aligned properly, and provide stregnth to the front end suspenion. Many parts bolt to the support including the headlights, fenders, and front bumper reinforcement. Therefore proper alignment must be maintained for these parts to fit corectly. Honda recomends tolerances of less than 3mm or 1/8 inch. These measurements can me found in extremely expensive collision frame manuals that are not usually available to the public. What I am trying to say nicely is that if you have to ask how to do it, you probably should not try it. I work at a collision repair shop. I have 5 A.S.E. certifications and 7 I-CAR certifications including structural analysis and repair in both. Please let professionals do this repair. I have seen bad work done that resulted in people dying in a car crash due to structural parts failing to do what they were designed to do. It is not worth the life of you or someone you love to save a little money.

On my 98 2.5Liter Outback, the radiator drain plug is at the lower left (passenger side) rear side of the radiator. Pull the small plastic coweling loose that is just below it to unscrew the plug. YFC I have a problem: How do you purge the air trapped in this 2.5 Liter engine after refilling a drained radiator?

I have a problem: How do you purge the air trapped in this 2.5 Liter engine after refilling a drained radiator?

im having to deal with this right now. according to the manual remove the radiator cap and reservoir cap. start the car and slowly fill the reservoir as needed the air will vent from the radiator once the water no longer needs to be filled replace the caps **you must pour slowly or you will prevent the air from escaping

on my 1989 it was on the passenger side on the bottom, but i had a 89 2500 3/4, my 2 cents There is one on each side of the block in the middle just above were the oil pan bolts on the engine. They have a 9/16 head and are short.

theres not pull the bottom hose.

check the thermostatic switch(turns on and off fan) check engine temp sensor ect.

Maybe your cooling/heat system is all plugged up with radiator deposits. You could try flushing the radiator and see if it helps.

Plug either at bottom or rear of radiator  The radiator drain plug is white and located at the bottom, passenger's side of the radiator. You can reach it from above or below, but on the 98 the splash panel has a slot too small to fit your hand through. Mine was so tight that it required pliers to twist it.

How do you properly refill the radiator coolant after replacement fo the heater core on a 91 grand AM coup LE 2.5L Tech 4? Your coolant reservoir or overflow container is how you fill the radiator. The radiator itself doesn't have a cap. Your reservoir overflow plastic container has a pressure release cap on it which releases pressure. Do not ever open hot. It also should have a little electrical plug in the bottom which lets you know on your dash when coolant level is low. There is a full cold line on reservoir tank showing where it should be when engine is cold. Whenever coolant is drained on Grand Prix's, or Grand Ams they are notorious for getting air pockets and not circulating properly. I always go ahead and change thermostat also or have it changed if draining and flushing as pieces of dirt and grime could get stuck in pin of thermostat when flushing. On these you are better off letting a mechanic flush & fill in my opinion, as they no the little tricks on how to burp [remove the air pocket]. Whenever a engine is replaced or headgasket replaced the engine usually needs to be burped, which I believe is done by removing the little square heade bolt at thermostat housing and allowing the air pockets to escape. I would talk to your mechanic on this precedure though as I said Pontiacs are notorious for getting air in the coolant system.

only when you refill it :

I am going to assume this in a automobile : however even if not the response would be about the same :

Once you re-add the liquid to the unit , keep the cap open and begin your circulation device or start your engine : you will observe the liquid level drop as it moves and air begin to rise toward the opening:

Air trapped inside can cause the liquid to rise and exit the open cap area: expect that to happen : place a drain pan or near that opening.

this process of releasing trapped air : always allow a minimum of 8 minutes per liter to flow .

Which drain you trying to open?

Yes, be sure and drain the radiator. I just replaced my radiator for the 1st time and was initially advised it would take an hour or so and that it should be easy (from a guy at Auto zone where I bought the new radiator for 100.00). 6 hours later, I have a new respect for auto mechanics. Since this was my first, I was only armed with a crescent wrench, some pliers and a socket wrench to work with. Also, I didn't realize that there were hook ups under the radiator such as a hose, (2) oil inlets .. not sure what they are- but it looked like oil came out after I loosed them up. So, I had to take the fans off and get underneath the car to unscrew/loosen the bottom bolts that hold the fans to the radiator body. But, before I could get to these bolts, there is a plastic shield under the front of the car that I had to take off to access the bottom hose, oil inlets and fan bolts. It was difficult to maneuver around and get to these nuts- this is what took so long. Those pesky electrical wires for the fan were also a bit troublesome to disconnect. The clamps that secure the hose lines are a bitch if you don't have the right tool- don't even know the right tool. I literally had to perform acrobatic movements with some needle nose pliers to move the claps. Overall, it is a pretty basic procedure .. but not for the faint of heart.
basicll you drain the fluid by the screw (aka drain cock) take the hoses off and 2 brackets on the top of the radiator. (one on each side)that should be about it give or take a couple of bolts. It pretty much common sense if you take your time. I hope I helped you out.

generally most radiator caps should hold 15psi, if they drop the cap is no good.

As you face the front of the car the plug is located on the back of the radiator, toward the bottom, closest to the passenger side. It is large, white and plastic. In order to see it you need to crawl under the car and look at the back of the radiator. The manual tranny version has a flathead nut, the auto has a phillips. The nut is also like a wing nut that you could twist with your fingers if you can fit them in there. Good luck!

where is the cooling fan relay switch located on a 1991 Hyundai scoupe ls 4 cylinder 1.5 liter engin

the radiator cap is located on the radiator which is the the thin rectangular block with lots of cooling fins. when you open the bonnet itsnearest thing to the bonnet release. Its possible that your car did not come with a radiator cap since it was an optional item.

Could be the thermostat it's stock, replace it.