Serpentine Belts

I found the answer at http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/b1103f.htm

First and foremost, make sure you have a diagram before removing the old belt. If there isn

It seems that when it is cool and/or damp, then I get a whistle or squeal from the serpentine belt. I have not been able to get anyone to confirm how to adjust the belt and have not yet found the Haynes or Chiltons manual for this newer model. I'm not sure if this is the proper procedure but I WAS ABLE TO TIGHTEN the belt a little. There are two bolts on the alternator and an adjuster bolt. The ones facing the passenger side at the top rear and bottom front hold the alternator in place. By loosening those, I could tben turn the adjuster bolt at the front bottom of the alternator. Due to the angle of the bolt, I needed two long extensions and a swivel. It's quite a trick using the swivel and keeping the socket on the bolt. I will watch for a while and see if I continue to get the squeal. I found one other query posted on the web about this squeal problem and mention that the dealer was not able to fix it saying it was normal. More to come if I get any new info. Thanks for any input anyone can give.

G'day, Best advice would be to either buy the auto repair manual for your car (make and model) or go to an automotive car dealer that deals with car parts and look up in the book on how to replace the belt. WARNING: Be sure the book is NOT wrapped (if you tear the wrapping off; you are liable to pay for the goods). Have a read through the section of drive belt/timing belt and go from there... Be sure you UNDERSTAND well before proceeding or you may not have a car to drive and to add to the matter, worse still expenses to fix what you were attempting to fix in the first place. If a new model; there maybe an automatic drive/timing belt tesioner (see belt diagram under bonet of your car). Either use a correct sprocket for the nut (located in the centre of the pulley). This acts as a level (make sure the direction of push or pull is not the same way as the nut to undo it). By pushing down or vice versa (be sure you have a firm grip or you'll slip and injure yourself), it will release the tension on the belt thus you can remove the belt. Or have a crowbar to lever the tension away but be gentle; NO forcing on other components or you'll end up paying more to fix!! It should move with little force (inwards, towards engine, away from the belt) , if not then it is the wrong way. There maybe a cover that has to be removed first to expose the drive/timing belt for easy access. If an old model, you may need to undo a bolt to release the Altanator but do not take the whole thing off, only enough for the belt to slide loose from the alternator. Be weary, getting the right tesnion after replacement of the belt maybe difficult (if it squeaks when reving then the belt is still loose). BE SURE THAT THE BELT IS ON PROPERLY AND IN ITS PROPER GROVES. CHECK AND RECHECK. WHEN TURNING THE MOTOR OVER, STAND WELL CLEAR. SHOULD THE BELT SNAP YOU'RE NOT IN THE WAY OR ANYONE FOR THAT MATTER. Cheers... :)

Look for sticker on shroud of radiator or under hood, it will show routing of serpentine belt. If the sticker is missing, click on the link below to purchase. Once at the site, select your year & make from the drop-down box in the Body Parts Catalog. This will take you to another page where you will select your model from the drop-down box. This will take you to another page, and on the left hand side select Information Labels. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213768 The routing may also be in a Haynes or Chilton manual, but I'm not positive. You may also want to look in your owners manual. Good Luck!

Free online diagrams can be found at Dayco.com. They offer a free online comprehensive serpentine belt reference tool - including routing diagrams and tensioner information.

Visit scribd.com/doc/28287331/Dayco-Serpentine-Belt-Guide.

Somewhere under the hood, usually on the fan shroud or near the radiator, there should be a sticker with a diagram of the belt routing, 2001 may even be on the hood. On this diagram it will show a tensioner pulley and idler pulley and the approximate location. Most Fords use a 15mm or 16mm bolt on the tensioner. This is where you put a wrench to rotate the tensioner and remove the belt. When you turn the tensioner bolt, turn towards the front of the car. There will be a lot of tension so pull hard.

Installation Notes:

Put a wrench on the (spring loaded) tensioner/idler pulley and take out the tension. You can then remove the belt. Replace the belt by fitting it around the pulleys and lastly loosening the tension with the tensioner/idler pulley to allow the belt to fit over the last pulley.

There is a spring loaded tensoner pulley you need to move (wrench or socket) to release the pressure . It will easily come off then . Install the same way . There should be a decal under the hood showing the correct installation

I am not sure about your car but I would think that most serpentine belt systems are somewhat the same where you should have a spring loaded tensioner pulley and all you would have to do is get a breaker bar or even using you hands to lift up the tensioner pulley enough to just slide the belt off and installation is reverse of removal, don't forget to note the belt routing or you would have to get a diagram to put it back on. I am telling you this from my experience with my 1988 2.5liter Chevy. I am not sure how complicated your setup is but I would imagine it shouldn't be too bad. I find getting a Haynes or Chilton's Manual for my vehicles has saved me from having to go to the mechanic for a few minor and major problems. Cheers!

on the core support

You have to remove one bolt at bottom of front mount. Will look like a round sleeve. Easiest to get to through wheel well.

Go to autozone.com..Repair instructions.Look for serpentine belt.May be a routing image there.

The timing marks on a Nissan ZD 30 diesel engine can be found on the front of the flywheel. The timing marks are scattered around the outside of the flywheel.

It wrinkles up because the belt is putting a lot of pressure on pants and cause it to wrinkle. So badly that you have to hide it in the front.

It's easy to do yourself with a helper. Look for one or more smooth pulleys. These will be the tensioners. Find a socket that fits on the nut in center of the pulley on the one that's easiest to reach and turn against spring tension to create slack in the belt. Have your assistant at the same time slip belt off top-most accessory. Before you do this, make sure to note routing or make sure there is a routing diagram to reinstall.

On a pre 1997 with a timing BELT: Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the dot on the block at the 1 o'clock position. Check the timing mark on the camshaft. The small hole in the sprocket should line up with the dot on the head at the 12 o'clock position. If it is not lined up, turn the crankshaft one more turn, and both marks will line up.

This should be on a sticker under the hood of the car, or in the owners manual, or available from your local auto parts store at no charge.

no it doesn't,

it protects the belt, but if you overspray the belt might pop out.

Your KIA has individual belts for the AC compressor-power steering pump and the alternator. These are not considered serpentine belts, just drive belts. You do have a cam timing belt that runs around both of your camshafts and crankshaft pulley. This maybe what you are thinking of. The camshaft timing belt is suppose to be changed after 60,000 miles (belt runs around $100). This 1.8L engine is a non-tolerance engine and if the timing belt should break, plan on replacing all the valves in the head. I just finished doing this job for a friend last weekend. Parts cost close to $400 from the parts store. Repair shop wanted $1700 for this same job. It is alot cheaper to replace the belt before it breaks. Note: When you replace the timing belt, replace the water pump while you are in there. First step to replacing the water pump is to remove the cam timing belt. Good luck.

just did my dodge ram the belt has a tensioner on it all that it is is a wheel with a spring on it get a wrench on the tensioner and turn it away from the belt this will loosen the old one the new belt will be very very tight and har to put on but with very much effort it is possible 10 min job

It's a piece of cake..... Using a socket wrench, fit it on the tensioner pulley which is spring loaded. Pulling it back, you loosen the belt and can then slip it off. Look in the enfgine compartment, (I forget exactly where, inside hood, on top of radiator frame etc.) and you'll find the pattern for fitting the serpentine belt around the pulleys. Just slip the new one on easing back the tensioner pulley to allow it to fit over that one last. Release the tensioner pulley and you're all done. (just do a check to see that the belt is sitting equally on all pulleys.)

Absolute necessities:

* Large 15mm box end wrench or belt tensioner tool.

* Universal Joint for your rachet wrench

* 12-16 inch extension

* Let car completely cool as the nut for the tensioner is on a pathway between the block and the exhaust manifold.

1) Jack up and remove front right wheel. (I always use a jack stand as well, something about a vivid imagination, 12 year old hydraulic jack, and that disk and spindle hovering a few inches over my chest)

2) Remove splash guard (necessary to remove the old belt and fish the new one up around all the pulleys)

(top side)

3) Put large 15 mm box end wrench on belt tensioner pulley bolt, and rotate clockwise towards you while slipping belt off idler pulley. Release tensioner.

4) Use 15 mm box end wrench to remove idler wheel (Your ratchet might fit, but mine did not, not enough room between fender and nut)

(bottom side)

5) Using extension, universal wobble joint, and 15 mm deep socket to get 15mm nut off the old tensioner.

Looking at it, studying it, I didn't think this could be done, but trust me it works.

Because the nut is above the power steering pump, you can not see it. You can barely get your arm up there to feel for it. With the ratchet wrench not attached, you go up through the large middle hole in the metal shield under the car. This is behind the rack and pinion stearing. Follow the only pathway up over the power steering pump between the manifold and the block, and the socket will slip right onto the 15mm nut. Attach the ratchet wrench which is now above the right universal joint boot on the steering arm, and it is easy to turn, because the manifold acts like a second hand and prevents the universal joint from just flopping around.

AND GOOD LUCK! Don't ya just love those automobile engineers!!

My suburban has a automatic tensioner therefore I need to do is take the tension off with a long wrench and slide the belt from underneath it and replace it with the new one. The tensioner is right by the water pump. If not then you will need to loosen the alternator bolt and drop the alternator to loosen the tension. Trust me manuals can be your best friend!!

its under your hood with the firing order and distributor order

Need to know the engine. In 1997, most Freightliner models were available with a Detroit Diesel (e.g., 11.1, 12.7, or 14.0 60 Series), Caterpillar (3116, 3126, 3406, etc.), or Cummins (6BT, L10, M11, N14, etc.) engine, and many models from the aforementioned manufacturers were available, as Freightliner makes a wide range of trucks - Class 5 through Class 8. You could talking about anything from an FL50 with a 6BT Cummins to an FLD132 Classic XL with a 3406E Caterpillar. Suffice to say, the routing won't be the same for each truck model/engine configuration.

First, you need to inspect the belt for cracks and defects. Also make sure that the belt is still flexible. If it does not have any problems, use tension bolt to tighten the belt.