Serpentine Belts

98% of the time it is the tensioner or idler pulley. With engine off take WD 40 with that little plastic tube & spray the back side of either one, idler or tensioner pulley, not both. Take a drive & if you still hear the belt noise then it is the pulley you didn't spray. The tensioer pulley is replacable on most dakotas. When you remove the belt the tensioner should have strong spring action & move smoothly. If it does then just replace the pulley. Some places will try to sell you the whole tensioner.

There are two bolts on the alternator one long that holds the alternator onto the vehicle and one short that adjusts the belts to tighten and loosen. Loosen both bolts, this allows the alternator to tilt letting you remove belt. Pull it back into place and tighten. Let it run for at least 15 min and recheck slack in belt.

If this is a serpentine belt; Loosen the tension on the belt tensioner, pull off old belt, put on new belt, leave slack at tensioner, pull back tensioner, wrap belt on tensioner, release pressure

On most alternators there is an adjusting bolt and a pivot bolt , both bolts must be loosened slightly to enable you to move the alternator , After the two bolts have been loosened , move the alternator ( toward the engine to loosen the belt ) (away from engine to tighten the belt ) You might have to move other belt driven components in the same manner as for the alternator Install belts adjust tension on belts ( It will often be necessary to use some sort of prybar to move the components while the belt is adjusted ,If this must be done to gain the proper leverage , be careful not to damage the components being moved or the part being pried against . ) Belt tension of each belt is checked by pushing on the belt at a distance halfway between the pulleys ( push firmly with your thumb and see how much the belt deflects ) A rule of thumb is that if the distance from pulley centre is between 7 and 11 inches the belt should deflect 1/4 inch , 12 to 16 inches 1/2 inch . A serentine belt ( the tension is controled by a tensioner ( loosen tensioner replace belt ) For better installation instructions go to the libary and check out a book or buy a Haynes Repair Manual for your make , year of car hoped this help you out

If you have only one external belt on your car, it's probably a serpentine belt. There will be a tensioner that needs to be released using a breaker bar or some other tool. With the pressure released it should just slide off... make sure you remember how it went on - maybe take a picture. Now if it's more than one belt you've got... usually there's a way to move a component driven by the belt. Usually the alternator itself swings a bit if loosened to slack the belt. Note: It's recommended to replace the tensioner either at the belt change, or 60k or so.

This really depends on what you are changing it on but i bet there is some sort of a tensioner that you have to relieve pressure and reroute the belt the way it came out and release the tension back on the belt

This really depends on what you are changing it on but i bet there is some sort of a tensioner that you have to relieve pressure and reroute the belt the way it came out and release the tension back on the belt

There should be a map, if not on top of the radiator, then pasted to the underside of the hood. If not, you need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

www.autozone.com look for specs and or parts location

1. Visually inspect the serpentine belt and idler pulley to determine it misalignment exists. 2. Start the engine and let it run for one minute before checking alignment. (The belt should be approximately 2mm (0.08 in.) from the inboard edge of the idler pulley, when alignment is correct. 3. Remove the belt and inspect the idler pulley for looseness, wobble, or a defective bearing. If any of these exist, replace the idler pulley. 4. The basic operating principle of the automatic tensioning mechanisms for all serpentine drivebelts is the same: A sealed housing with a powerful spring is connected to an external arm or flange on which a pulley is mounted, usually held by a through bolt or possibly a stud and nut. The pulley is there to take up slack in the drivebelt when installed, and maintain enough tension on the belt. The spring housing has an external indicator that moves with the tension provided by the spring. The fixed part of the tensioner housing has maximum and minimum marks, and perhaps even a smaller range of marks for a new belt. When a belt has stretched, so that the tensioner spring indicator is very close to or against the maximum length mark, the belt should be replaced. Even if the spring tensioner seems to be holding the belt, put a wrench on it and move it slowly, feeling carefully for any lost motion in the spring tension. If you hear a clicking or feel anything but smooth tension, replace the tensioner. Tensioners go bad more often than you'd believe--they crack, their mounting bolts loosen, their pulleys become damaged, the bearing fails. 2. In the case of the Ford Escort ZX2, 2 Liter engine, stop wasting your time checking for worn idlers, bearings & belts. The problem is that a dummy engineer created the problem (that's why mechanics cuss so much -- dummy engineers). The tensioner is placed too far away from the grooved pulleys. The flat pulleys have no axial retention (side wander control). The solution is to replace the tensioner with a $20 Dayco or Duralast part # 231084. That part has flanges to retain the belt from falling off. You will need to shim the pulley out 3/32 inch, because the new part is plastic and interferes with the stud it mounts on right at the outside diameter of the bearing of the tensioner. I turned down some of the plastic on my engine lathe so I only had to shim the pulley out half that much. I didn't want to lathe off all the interference, because then the plastic pulley might fall off its bearing. On the outside of the pulley don't use the washer under the bolt head, because it interferes with the plastic (again right at the outside diameter of the bearing), and you don't need it. Good luck!

there is a square shape hole in the tensioner pulley with a directional arrow on it get a 3/4 or 5/8 breaker bar pull it in the direction that the arrow is facing. when you do that, just pull the belt off.

you need to loosen the pulley itself so that it can work it's way down to the bracket. it has to be a 17mm socket, and unless someone put a different bolt on the pulley. 17mm should be your number. maybe try cleaning the bolt ahead

you dont,the tensioner tightens the belt up.if belt sqeals get new belt or tensioner! on 3.1v6,

What year is your Crown Vic? On the later models (199x through 200x) there is a sticker on the radiator support or the removable filler panel between the grille and the radiator support that shows all the pulleys and the belt position on the pulleys. It is located near the emissions control sticker.

Tools: Eye protection, wrench, Allen wrench or both to loosen the idler pully, a socket and long handled braker bar to loosen the tensioner. First, check the size of the wrench you will need to remove the idler pully (either a nut on the back of the pully or an Allen wrench from the front.) do not loosen! Next find a socket that will fit the tensioner (The tensioner is the only pully on an arm) At the tensioner there is a nut that the socket will fit (don't worry you cannot remove the nut as it is built into the tensioner) attach socket and braker bar to the tensioner. Either push or pull the braker bar and the tensioner will either tighten the serpentine belt or loosen it. Loosen it and hold breaker bar in place by letting it rest against something (holding the breaker bar for 10 to 15 minutes is the pitts) Only pull the belt off one pully (such as the alternator or AC) Once the belt is off one of the pullys, slowly release the breaker bar. It will travel beyond its normal traveling area. You may have to put the belt back on the tensioner and reposition the socket and breaker bar to get the travel you need to remove the belt. If you are changing the belt, make sure you have a diagram to reinstall the belt. The idler pully can now be removed using the other wrench. To reinstall reverse the procedure and slip the belt over the pullys and check to make sure that all the belt grooves are in all the pully grooves. Have someone start the car with instructions to shut the car off immediatly if the belt is not installed correctly. (Be extra carefull when starting the car. Do not get to close as if the belt is installed incorrectly it can jump out and bite you) tata G

It is behind the Serpentine belt. To replace it you will need to loosen the tensioning pulley and remove the serpentine belt first. Then loosen the AC Compressor and swing it towards the engine to release the tension on the belt. Install in the reverse order. At this time, it is a good idea to inspect your tensioner pulley and replace if required. This is an OEM item, hard to find on short notice and easy to change at this stage.

Check with your local parts store, they should be able to print out a diagram for you.

Everything runs clockwise. Belt is located under the tensioner.

tensioner wobble , check all pulleys for straightness and replace as need

The way it fits around and on top of the pulleys.

google gator belts or graber belts look at the catalog and surf it will show you under micro v belt install

Probably due to slipping when they get wet. Your belts might need to be changed.

Indirectly. Eventually, the engine will lose ALL power if that serp belt breaks. Far cheaper to replace that worn belt now than face a complete rebuild of the engine a little ways in time down the road.

If the alternator belt is the same belt as the other accessories, yes.

Look by the passenger seat floor it is the flat black box located on the right side under the carpet. Hope this helps.

but the special tool for taking it off, it goes inside the tensioner pulley so you can pull it back to release the tension to take of the belt, but dont let go just have the other one ready to go because if you let go its very hard to get it back up. put it on the same way you took it off.

Look in your owners manual if you have it or the routing decal should be under the hood of the car.

Jack up the car and remove the tire from the passenger side of the car. Remove the plastic inner splash guards to expose the tensioner. Put a wrench on the nut that holds the pulley on and push it clockwise to remove tension on the serpentine belt. While doing this, pull the serpentine belt off to remove pressure on the tensioner. Once you have completed this task, you will need a 10mm socket; I suggest using an black impact socket; I broke 3 regular sockets and then finally bought a set of good sockets at Sears $30. for a set of 10. Remove the 2 nuts, replace the tensioner and then replace the belt the same way you removed it. The hardest part is removing the 2 nuts on the tensioner; they are extremely tight. Good luck. If you need more details, ask and I will update this message.

Regards,

Damian

The system that the belt runs on ,is called a serpentine system,it's a one belt set-up ,and they are self adjusted by a tensioner,sounds like...1- Your tensioner is seized,or ..2-your belt is streched..Sometimes the tensioner can be free'd by taking it of and working it in with lubrication,but if not,get a new tensioner and a belt, hope it helps.