Serpentine Belts

USUALLY UNDER THE HOOD THERE ARE SEVERAL DIAGRAMS ONE BEING THE SERPENTINE BELT IF NOT USE A MANUAL FOR ABOUT 12 BUCKS AT YOUR LOCAL PARTS DEALER

You may have a bad temperature sending unit. If that switch is defective, you will get a faulty reading. Also check the radiator to see if the coolant is flowing and there is no blockage in the radiator itself. Also check the belt for tightness.

Firstly what was the need to do that and secondly if its overheating the ask some one who is more knowledgeable about it and never try changing the parts of any vehicle if it not the original part then it can damage the system

It all depends what you are burning as there are many gases. As a guide, large amounts of hydrocarbons - methane, ethylene, ethane, acetylene. Benzyne and its derivitives. Carbon monoxide. Hydrogen Cyanide, ammonia and nitrogen oxide. Chlorine, Hydrogen chloride, phosgene, dioxene and other diocarbons. Sulphurs. Phenols. Formic acid and Aceitic acid and many many more.

yes it does, it is not a very fun belt to do.

If it is not keeping the battery charged then it is defective. Start the engine and connect a volt meter set on 20 Volts DC to the battery posts. Red probe to positive and black to negative. You should get a reading of from 13.5 to 16 volts. Any less or more and the alternator is defective.

Go to this web page and click on appropriate button to open the manual.

I buy knockoff brand belts online because Toro's are too expensive.

https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt?space=CommunityPage&cached=true&parentname=CommunityPage&parentid=1&in_hi_userid=30166&control=SetCommunity&CommunityID=225&PageID=30031#manualsResultPage

No the drive belt and Deck belt are two different belts, one powers the rear wheels, the other powers the deck.

though if you are asking if they are the same belt as in same size, I don't know, you'll have to check your owners manual or talk to someone who repairs or can get parts for Cub Cadet mowers.

The diagram has to be printed somewhere. Some cars have a label in the engine compartment, some drawing in the manual.

The rule of thumb is that the crankshaft pulley needs to have about 180 degrees loop of belt on it. So looking on the engine from front and going clockwise the belt goes under the crankshaft pulley, wraps it toward 2 o'clock, where usually is a tensioner on idler pulley, than goes back toward 8 o'clock, loops on whatever is there and than wraps around all the pulleys on the engine.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/general-mercedes-benz/1429423-sprinter-fanbelt.html

Usualy there is a diagram under the hood on a sticker. I am assuming that the sticker has peeled off. You can get any tech info from Ford but better and easier would be just to go and get a Haynes manual from your local auto parts. They cost about $16.00 but they are well worth it. With it you can do most any repair yourself. If you cant afford to buy the manual then you may be fortunate enough to find one that has the wrapper peeled off. Just look inside and draw it if you have to to remember it when you get home.

It is a serpentine BELT , not hose.

On a vehicle with a serpentine belt system there is always a tensioner pulley. Usually in the center of the routing network, you need to place the correct size wrench on it and push or pull with one hand releasing the tension on the belt. With the tension released, use the other hand and slip the belt out.

Most vehicles have a sticker in the engine compartment for replacing the belt to be sure it is put back in correctly. If not, be sure you look at the routing and or draw a picture so that it is replaced the same.

First and foremost, make sure you have a diagram before removing the old belt. If there isn�t one under the hood, get out the pencil and paper and draw it out labeling the pullies and arrows pointing to the direction the belt travels on them. Save this paper in the glove compartment when the job is done for future reference. As far as replacing goes, it depends on the engine. Believe it or not, they are different amongst manufacturers, makes and models, so Bclear! If there is a spring loaded tensioner, you�ll need to turn the tensioner back to relieve pressure, and slide the belt off the tensioner pulley. Depending on the tensioner, you may be able to use a socket wrench with the right socket, 3/8� drive with socket wrench, or in some cases, you�ll need a tool that is meant for just this called a belt tensioner wrench. After it is relieved of tension, the belt can be removed. The new one gets routed the same, if you can�t remember, refer to your diagram. If you didn�t make one and can�t remember, listen closely and you�ll hear me laughing at you. Some belts require motor mounts to be removed and some are just plain nasty, such as the 1.9 motor found in ford escorts. If there is no tensioner. Look for a bolt going through a bracket that the alternater or power steering mounts to. Loosen the bolt, pry back whatever components keeps tension, and replace the belt. Make the tension respectfully taunt and tighten bolt back down after the belt is replaced..

First of all take a good look at your installed belt and note all contact pulleys.A picture of the belt routing should be noted with a picture on the cross member under the hood. One of the pulleys is a smooth idler wheel that takes the slack out of serpentine belt when installed and rides on the serpentine back side. This idler pulley is spring loaded and a long bar is needed to pry tension from it to release the serpentine belt. Some part of the engine can be used for a fulcrum point to get leverage. Be careful.......

One of the pulleys that the belt goes around is a pretensioner, put a half inch drive ratchet into the center of the pulley and pull until there will be enough slack to put the belt on. There is usually a diagram under the hood to show how the belt goes.

There are two bolts on the alternator one long that holds the alternator onto the vehicle and one short that adjusts the belts to tighten and loosen. Loosen both bolts, this allows the alternator to tilt letting you remove belt. Pull it back into place and tighten. Let it run for at least 15 min and recheck slack in belt.

If this is a serpentine belt; Loosen the tension on the belt tensioner, pull off old belt, put on new belt, leave slack at tensioner, pull back tensioner, wrap belt on tensioner, release pressure

On most alternators there is an adjusting bolt and a pivot bolt , both bolts must be loosened slightly to enable you to move the alternator , After the two bolts have been loosened , move the alternator ( toward the engine to loosen the belt ) (away from engine to tighten the belt ) You might have to move other belt driven components in the same manner as for the alternator Install belts adjust tension on belts ( It will often be necessary to use some sort of prybar to move the components while the belt is adjusted ,If this must be done to gain the proper leverage , be careful not to damage the components being moved or the part being pried against . ) Belt tension of each belt is checked by pushing on the belt at a distance halfway between the pulleys ( push firmly with your thumb and see how much the belt deflects ) A rule of thumb is that if the distance from pulley centre is between 7 and 11 inches the belt should deflect 1/4 inch , 12 to 16 inches 1/2 inch . A serentine belt ( the tension is controled by a tensioner ( loosen tensioner replace belt ) For better installation instructions go to the libary and check out a book or buy a Haynes Repair Manual for your make , year of car hoped this help you out

If you have only one external belt on your car, it's probably a serpentine belt. There will be a tensioner that needs to be released using a breaker bar or some other tool. With the pressure released it should just slide off... make sure you remember how it went on - maybe take a picture. Now if it's more than one belt you've got... usually there's a way to move a component driven by the belt. Usually the alternator itself swings a bit if loosened to slack the belt. Note: It's recommended to replace the tensioner either at the belt change, or 60k or so.

Go ahead and draw a diagram of the pulleys, but getting the correct diagram online and taking digital camera photos of everything in the correct place is much more reliable.

Also if you're experiencing squealing, rough up the surface of the pulleys a little using a wire brush or brillo pad.

There is usually a placard under the hood with a diagram.

I have done mine twice. First get the reservoir and air filter out of your way. Then get a ratchet on the pulley that is just a tensioner - by turning the bolt you create slack in the belt. I hadn't worked on cars in years - the alternator seemed simple enough - but one thing to note is that you do not have to pull out the bottom bolt to remove it - you can't anyway. There are two bolts behind it that hold a casting for the bottom bolt.

Go to www.zx2racing.com, there will be detailed instructions. On the left hand collum, click Pully Diagram. ALSO YOU CAN GO TO THE AUTOZONE.COM SITE AS THEY HAVE DIAGRAMS AND INSTRUCTIONS. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?partName=Engine+Mechanical&pageId=0900c152801e9826&partId=0900c152801e9826

Take it to the dealer

There should be a decal under the hood right by the radiator that gives the correct routing for your serpentine belt.

I t is either a 79 or an 85mm belt

Yes, as long as the belt is neither to short or too long, and the proper tension is maintained.

On one of the stickers in the engine compartment , ahead of the radiator , there should be a serpentine belt routing diagram

OH GOD! take it in to a shop! costs about 70 bucks! Without the correct tools, it will be a very bad day for you!

If you replaced it with the correct belt, then the Idler Pulley needs replacing. Spring is broken or weak.

Had the same problem on a 2001 b3000, it would clear up for a day or two after installing new belt then it was back. Changed pulleys and tensioner thinking that was surly it but again it came back within a week, slowly. finally someone told me try quality and it was all left to try so instead of buying my regular $17.99 belt which would have been my 4th in 6mths. i spent the xtra and got the $33.00 one and rented the tool to change it with correctly to ensure i did not stretch it any while putting it on and that alone made a heck of a difference but its going on a month now and not a peep out of this newer belt, im sure quality is the way to go, hope this helps.

No, the cam belt drives the cam and possibly the water pump. It is concealed under a shield and is not visible. The serpentine belt drives the alternator, P/S pump, & the A/C and is visible.

3. Explain how the fan belt gets energy to rotate