Serpentine Belts

Depends on many factors. Inspect the belt for cracks & wear and replace it as necessary. It should last at least 100,000 miles, but it may not.

If you go to your local autozone they will print you off the diagram. Or go to Chiltons website and see if they offer what you seek. Hope this finds you obtaining your info.

should have spring loaded tensioner nonadjustable

All the services driven by this one belt fail at the same time. Generator, pump, etc.

The Serpentine Belt needs to be tightend with the tensioner pulley (Idler Pulley)

I don't recommend any aerosol belt dressing, most are no different than WD-40 in composition. I'd check your belt for wear, cracks, and possibly foreign debris (ie: pebbles, glass etc). If your belt appears to be structurally sound, then take a lithium grease-stick and hold it on your belt for a few seconds as the engine runs... this will quieten your belt.

Or you could tighten up the belt as well. Once belts get old, they start to stretch, resulting in a loose squeaky belt.

answer make sure belt has correct tension. also use belt dressing on belt. available at any auto store

I'd highly discourage using any type of aerosol spray for two reasons:

1. The sounds usually gets worse seconds after you apply it.

2. It usually leaves a nasty residue not only on the belt, but on parts around it and if the belt is too loose and you have to tighten it, you have to clean all that crap off of it.

It's either too loose or there's something wrong with it....as stated above.

You don't tighten it. It has an idler pulley that keeps the proper tension. If this is an old belt and is loose, then it needs replacing. If you have installed a new belt and it is loose, then either you installed the wrong belt or the idler spring is weak and the idler needs replacing.

I also have a hard time to change the AC belt (and power staring belt) My friend and I changed the alternator belt of 1995 corolla but still working on the other two belts. Haynes manual says the system around the drivebelts are similar in 1993-1997 models. Here is what we done in 4 hours.


1. Moved away the tank of windshield washer fluid. Using 1/2' wrench.

2. Pushed down a part of the RH engine under cover. (The lower bottom, in front of the front wheel). Don't remember which size of socket for the breaker bar (10mm?), but it was easy.

3. Locating the alternator pivot bolt and the lock bolt was the most difficult (among our successful attempts) task today. Both are located below the alternator (front side) and we are not able to see them. Alternator pivot bolt goes from right (driver's side) to left. I felt it with my left hand (fingers!). (The nut was facing the driver's side.) Then, put only a 12mm socket on the bolt, and placed the breaker bar. After loosened the bolt, located the lock bolt, at the middle-front of the alternator's bottom side (hope you get it) with 12mm socket and breaker bar. (The nut was facing away from the driver's seat.) It took a little while (turned the bar for 20 or 30 times? Maybe more) to loosen up the alternator belt.

4. Unsuccessful attempt to loosen up the compressor drive belt (AC?). Loosened the idle pulley lock nut, with the 14mm (maybe) wrench, not with the breaker bar- not enough space. Idle Pulley Lock Nut is in the middle of a disk, about 2.5' diameter, 1' thick. When you face the side of the alternator (you are standing at the right wheel, facing the left wheel), you see a disk attached to the alternator, and the Idle Pulley Lock Nut lower left. The nut was tight so my friend lightly used the hammer on the wrench.



Key words: 1993, 1994, 1995, 1997. Drive belts = fan belts = AC/power staring belts

Source: Haynes Repair Manual: Toyota corolla & Geo/Chevrolet Prism 1993 thru 2002. (2002) ISBN 1-56392-455-2

Of course. The serpentine belt must be just tight enough, but not too tight, and it's VERY important to ensure that the belt was put on with the grooves facing the right direction; the groves should line up with those on the pulleys. Make sure that the tensioner has been tightened exactly the way it should be - there may be extra bolts on the opposite side that must be retightened... Each car is different, so check a Chilton's or Haynes manual for your particular make and model.

There should be a decal under the hood, most parts places have a book that shows this and finally your local library may have a repair manual that you can look at.

You can also buy a repair manual for your car.

need picture of belt for 99 Sunfire

Ah yes, the infamous serpentine belt! It's among the most asked about items in the Sunfire group.

My car still has a diagram for belt routing on the underside of the hood. Yours might too. If not, and the belt is still on the car, make a quick diagram of your own for reference.

If your belt has left the car and has joined the bits of semi truck tires on the highway and you can't find a diagram, you're not screwed, but it sucks. Most any GM dealer ship should be able to come up with a diagram for you.

If there is a slot in the pully, you stick something in the slot that is long enough so that it will, when the pully turns rest against some non breakable component on the vehicle and stop the pully from turning.

If you are trying to get the crankshaft pully off, you will usually need to access the point where the transmission connects to the engine flywheel. You then need to stick something strong, like the flat edge of a prybar into the flywheel to keep it from turning while you put pressure on the crankshaft pully bolt. This usually requires help from another individual. It is very important that what you use to hold the flywheel in place is strong enough to keep the flywheel from turning without breaking. If you break it off in the flywheel when turning it, there is a good chance that you will find yourself removing the transmission to get whatever broke off out. If it breaks off and you don't remove it, it will damange your transmission.

If you have an impact wrench with an air compressor, this can probably be done much more easily as long as your impact wrench is strong enough to break the bolt free and you can fit it onto the bolt.

Manuals are available online from the MTD Manual Archive. The link is below; type in that model number you posted and use a 1 as the serial number. The long belt is the bottom bbelt on the variable speed pulley above the transaxle.

According to Honda specs the serpentine belt, surrounding belts, and water pump should be replaced very 105,000 miles. I know people wh waited past that point and their Honda is now in the junkyard after the belt broke and the engine parts flew together.

Try this: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachments/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/44176d1200653873-diagram-required-routing-serpentine-belt-drive-belts.jpg

From the VIN #,from left to right the 10th character will give you a letter code and you can look it up.

Maybe the belt tension is too tight. This very same thing happen to me on a 92 Jeep Cherokee.

Is the belt the right belt ? Length , width and design Check your routing If you did not move any components ( fly wheel ???? ) then look at the belt. looks like you got to change the belt again anyway get a belt from a dealership

You already have one. Under the hood on a placard & possibly in your owner's manual.

Use a half inch ratchet.Place the stub on ratchet into slot located on idler pulley and push down to relieve tension on belt. replace belt and push down on ratchet to reload Actually, I believe it's 3/8 inch and a breaker bar works just as well.

using a socket and a breaker bar,engage the nut on the tensioner and rotate it against the pressure of its spring ,the belt will become slack and can be replaced ...follow diagram on sticker nearby for proper routing of belt. gere

DJ London: Going in from underneath is the best route for the tensioner removal

The serpentine belt has an easy adjustment. Loosen the nut holding the tensioner wheel and turn the adjusting screw until proper belt tension is achieved. Tighten tensioner wheel nut.

yes ask your local auto part store they should have a diaram in there belt book if you ask them or ask a local repair shop they should be able to help with that yes use a wrench or 3/8 or 1/2 drive ratchet witch ever it takes

To change the power steering pump belt, or any other belt for that matter:

1. Loosen the adjuster bolt.

2. Loosen the mounting bolt enough that the belt is loose.

3. Take off the belt to be changed and replace it with the new belt.

If the belt is buried behind other belts, for example air conditioner or power steering, it will be necessary to loosen the bolts and remove the outer belts to get to the inner belt you need to change. While you have the outer belts off is a good time to consider changing them as well.

Roller bearing