VW Jetta

There is a lever to the left of the driver's seat by the door and on the floor. Pull to release the trunk, push to release the gas cover door.

I've had the same problem. This is the second time it's happened to me. Last time? It was the central power supply (or a power supply of some sort, but I think it was "central power supply"). It's probably the same thing now.

I've found that the rear brakes generally wear out twice as fast as the front brakes, probably because they are half the size. The rear disk brakes are integrated with the emergency brake. This means that you will need a special tool to screw the brake cylinder back into the caliper once you've installed the new brake pads. Note that the cheap-o cube things don't have the right size, but you can get the good brake caliper kit kit through the loan-a-tool program at your neighborhood autoparts store. Step by step you do the following: Remove the rear wheel and clean the rotor and brake assembly with brake cleaner. Brake pads contain asbestos so you want to remove as much brake dust as possible before working on them and take precautions to avoid breathing in any brake dust. Remove the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper on, then slide off the caliper. Support the caliper by hanging it off a wire so that you don't stress the brake lines. Remove the old brake pads. Make sure your new brake pads came with clips before getting rid of the old ones. Remove the screw holding the rotor in place. I found that for my Jetta there was just enough room to replace the rotor without removing the brake caliper mount. I had to remove the mount for the front brakes. If you do have to remove the caliper mount, you'll need an 8 or 9 mm hex wrench if you don't have one in your toolbox. Install the new rotor. With the special brake caliper tool, turn and push the cylinder to just about flush with the caliper. Install the new brake bads. Slide the caliper into place over the brake pads and bolt it back in place. Put your wheel back on.

If a prospective buyer wishes to read reviews of the 2013 Volkswagon Jetta, these can be found in the respected publications Car and Driver, Motor Trend, Consumer Reports and Edmunds. If a prospective buyer should wish to write a review of the 2013 Jetta, they may do so on a number of websites and blogs including Auto Trader, AOL Autos and Auto Guide. If a potential buyer wishes to review the 2013 Jetta in the sense of viewing and possibly test driving it, the local telephone directory is a good place to look for the nearest Volkswagon dealership.

go and spend the money on john muirs idiots guide to beetle repair ..its the best money spent on anything beetle with some excellent art work and fun reading and many of the finest sources and advice available

Hey Ray==If it is auto trans simply remove the pan and filter. Then replace it and fill it with about 4 quarts of fluid. Put 3 quarts in then check it. Don't overfill it. GoodluckJoe To change the oil for a manual tranny, put the car on a lift...if you look on the passenger side of the tranny, you'll see a 17mm bolt head which is essentially a cap for the fill hole. On the same side below the "cap", look for a bolt that a 3/8" ratchet can fit into, this is the drain plug. Once oil's drained, you'll need a funnel to refill the tranny. According to the service manuals, the 1.8L engines take about 2.2 Liters of engine oil. No matter what anyone says, DO NOT use 80w-90 transfer case gear oil, these aren't Subaru trannys.

First check the fuse. Second check the switch. Same goes with power windows. A weak motor will melt a switch. If that fails ,connect a 12v power supply strait to the door in question.

174hp

5W-30

It is a Mass Air Flow sensor and it is located in the air filter box in a housing that allows air to flow through the air filter through the sensor then through the throttle in to the intake manifold

Nate Smith

DTCC Automotive

Durham, NC

Does it have Daytime running lights? It will be on with them

A few bolt-ons, such as an air intake and/or a cat-back exhaust, are the cheapest and easiest way to get more hp out of your jetta. The next step up would be a performance chip, then if you really want to drop some cash to make some serious power you should go with a turbocharger kit.

take it to autozone if u buy it they may replace it for u

I just bought a 2005 Hyundai elantra gls and when I hit 135 or so the speed warning ing the far right side or behind the drivers side went off and so this took me about 15 hours until I figured it out I hade to disangauge the electrical plug for 5 minutes from the automatic transmission and then I undid the positive side of the batery enabling the memory from the trans mission to give feed back to the brain and then I pluged into the wire again and the I was able to around 128 but not over 130 or else your beep would come back this was done throught trial and erar vere frustrating, all I am wantting to do now is learn how to empty the tank of gas yopu know siphon the gas tank when I bigger automatic transmission comes in I am putting a Mitsubishi eclipse front wheel trans mission in but I jusy have to move the motor a 1?8 of a inch good buy??

If you meant the neutral start switch, it is located on the upper part of the automatic transmission. Not sure if that's what you wanted though.

TRY SPRAYING, FORCING WD-40 "USING THE RED TUBE" IN THE LOCK. MAKE SURE TO HOLD A RAG UNDER THE LOCK TO SOAK UP THE OVERFLOW. THEN SLAP THE DOOR SHARPLEY WITH YOUR OPEN HAND WHILE JIGGLING THE KEY UP, DOWN, IN, OUT, LEFT TO RIGHT BUT DON'T BENT THE HEAD OF THE KEY.

You need to charge to the correct PSI level. You can find a chart on the website linked below.

You need a really massive impact wrench--something that cranks off from 300 to 400 lb-ft of torque. A lot of people at Tegger's Honda FAQ swear by the DeWalt 1/2" drive electric, which puts out 350 lb-ft. Ridgid (sold at Home Depot) sells a 1/2" drive model that kicks off 400 lb-ft. Harbor Freight sells one that is 3/4" drive (they also sell 3/4"-1/2" adapters because 3/4" drive impact sockets are generally huge) and that develops 400 lb-ft torque. I work at Home Depot but I bought my wrench from Harbor Freight...the $80 I saved bought sockets, the adapter and beer.

Air wrenches? The ones that develop enough torque are really expensive and they don't really work any better.

An impact wrench this big will screw that bolt out so fast you won't need to lock the crankshaft.

there is a hole on the rear of the block on the drivers side located just behind the rear balance shaft so you can lock your engine #1 cylinder @ TDC with a 6mmX100mm bolt or screwdriver. there is a hole machined into the balance shaft that holds everything still so you can get done....I would also recommend the use of an impact....

I just change my timing belt and water pump. In order to do this, you must drop the engine and remove the crankshaft pulley.

I could not have done it correctly had I not purchased a Chilton's Repair Manual.

Also, you will probably have to purchase or make a special tool in order to get the nut loose, although you might be able to do it with an impact wrench.

Either way, Chilton's gives a very detail explanation of how to do everything without messing up your timing. It explains how to set TDC (top dead center) on the #1 cylinder.

Don't try using a breaker bar and hitting the starter. These Hondas turn the wrong way for that.

Honda makes a tool that has a hex head which fits in the crankshaft pulley, with a hole in the middle that you can fit the required 19" socket. I refused to wait for the dealer parts department to open M-F to get the special Honda tool which holds the crankshaft pulley and I'm too cheap to spend the $50 bucks. So, I went to Lowes and got a 1.5" X 2" galvanized coupling and a 1.5" X 1" galvanized bushing. The bushing has a hex head that was slightly too big. I used an angle grinder to shave it down and each side. I needed the coupling to give me enough length to get past the pulley. I then used a 12" pipe wrench on this with a brick wedged under it. the handle of the pipewrench was under the coupling the pointing to the front of the car. I had to turn the pulley with my breaker bar to get tension on this as it didn't fit snug enough to hold itself up. Initially, I found the only progress I was making was continuing to tighten the bushing/coupling joint but eventually it bottomed out and the torque started to apply to the bolt.

Next, I couldn't figure out how to get a long cheater on the breaker bar. Here, my friend led me to add to my 19mm, 1/2" drive socket, 10" and 6" extensions (16" total). I supported these extensions with a jack stand. I attached my 18" breaker bar to the extensions and a 4 foot cheater pipe to the breaker bar. I put all my weight on the pipe and in a few seconds I heard that beautiful snap of the bolt breaking loose. Once I got the right leverage, it was a piece of cake. Getting the right leverage took two days of talking to a whole bunch of people, trying many different setups, using heat, a sledge hammer and my friends impact. Ultimately, it all goes back to leverage.

YOU DONT HAVE TO DROP THE ENGINE FOR THAT!!! ITS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO GET IT OFF THOUGH. THERES A TOOL CALLED A PULLEY HOLDER THAT YOU CAN USE IF ALL ELSE FAILS.

The comment about the galvanized coupling needs an addendum: For some reason no one can understand, Honda used three different crank pulleys on Accords. Only one of them works with the galvanized coupling tool, but if you have one of those pulleys the aforementioned tool works very well.

It is reset with a OBD2 scan tool, after the repair of the system.

It is located under the car on the oil pan.

17.5 mpg. Loaded, up an down hill.

call someone to help you get them out it usually cost about 50 to 60 dallors.

Try MOTORLIT.COM.

1. go ask your mamy

You have to do it from inside the trunk. Remove the plastic screws that hold the cargo net in (they should just screw out). Then, pull the plastic trim that was under the plastic screws out to expose the studs that hold the tail lights in (there should be 2-3 studs). Remove any screws if there are any present and the entire taillight assembly should be loose enough to remove. Pull the assembly away from the car, be careful not to short out the cords, and remove the bulbs just like you would any bulb.