VW New Beetle

This site has a lot of useful subaru related maintenance and modification information. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3291 Hope this helps. Kid

1998.

Follow this thread for a nice breakdown of removal. I think this should cover your model year as well.

http://www.myvwlemon.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000525.html

Most are in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

Some of the Beetles never came with a reverse light. My earlier '68 at least did not have one. The present '68 that I own has a reverse switch just above the gear box. Check for wiring or connection faults. If okay, your reverse switch is faulty. If you are having a Beetle that is. ---- Jas

* The VIN begins with the prefix "JKA", "JKB", "JK1", "JSA", or "LM4" * On all motorcycles it is stamped on the side of the steering head. On street-legal motorcycles, the VIN also appears on the Safety Certification Label affixed to, or near, the side of the steering head. * On ATV's it is stamped on the lower frame tube, to the left of the engine. * On MULE® utility vehicles, look for a plate welded to the frame at or near the front of the vehicle. On some MULE models, the VIN is located on the frame, just below the front of the seat. The above is a quote from the Kawasaki website. But, I found the VIN numbers on both of my Kawasaki ATV's on the lowest frame tube parallel to the ground. The Prairie 700 had the number on the left under the front differential. The Bayou 250 had the number directly under the engine on the left side.

The numbers are stamped into the frame and not that obvious, but are easy to see once you know where to look.

The wiper relay is located behind the fuse box, third socket from the drivers side. This relay controls the low speed and intermittent functions. It also controls the motor to "park" the wipers down rather than just stopping them. The 1st relay is for the E-flashers and turn signals and the 2nd relay is for the low/high beam headlights.

Its for your back window defrost

Its 40 liters just like on the other kinds of beetles.

VW changed gas tank design several times over the years. For a 59 bug, the correct gas tank design vintage is 1956 to 1960.

When the cold light comes on it is because the Coolant/Antifreeze is still cold, and that you should drive moderately until the engine reaches normal operating temperatures. When it blinks blue it usually means that there is an electrical malfunction with the cooling system somewhere. (usually the coolant sensor goes bad) If the light blinks red then the car is overheating.

go to pisk a part and get a used one. If their is one there.

The price of the new sensor, which can be quite a bit. If you took it to a shop then it will be significant because they will charge you diagnostic time, and labor time as well, plus they'll mark up the price of the sensor. I wouldn't be surprised if it ran you 200 or more.

Volkswagen ("Peoples' Car") is a German car manufacturer, most famous for the Beetle.

If I remember right. You should have coil packs covering the plugs. Look for screws holding the packs on. That should help to get you started..

There will be four 1/2 inch bolts mounted on the top of the coil pack. To tell you the truth it is easier if you take off the heater hoses from the top of the coil pack since they are in the way first. When you pull off the coil pack make sure to be aware that it does have an electrical connection that will not let you pull that coil pack to far from the spark plugs. Another recommendation is to replace your coil boots since you already did all the job. I really recommend for you to use champion spark plugs

(regular resistor).

# The battery is located in the right front corner of the engine compartment (facing the car). # Just to the left of the battery is the power steering reservoir remove the 5mm hex head screw that holds it in place, this is done to provide enough room to extract the battery. # There is a cover on the battery that is removed by depressing 2 tabs front and rear of the battery. # There is additionally a small square box atop the battery, this is a junction for a number of power cables, look for a small tab at the base of this box towards the windshield, depress it and slide the box towards the windshield and lift ( you don't have to disconnect any of the wires here). # The battery is encased in a plastic cover; this case has two sides left and right. There is a small wire holder that is connected to the left half, carefully remove it. # Disconnect the battery cables (10 mm), negative side first, (make sure the cable doesn't touch anything metal) and then the positive side. # You can now remove the left half of the battery cover. It should lift straight up (this could take some patience mine hung up a bit). # If you look down to the center, front of the base of the battery (closest to the bumper) you will see a 13mm bolt that holds the battery down, remove this and the small plate. # Now the fun part: lifting the battery left side first, tilt it to about 45˚ and slide it out (it's a little tricky). # Once the battery is out remove the insulating jacket (with Velcro tabs) and install it on the new battery. # Take a minute to tie that little square junction box and battery cables out of the way before attempting to install the new battery (this will save the neighbors from having to bring the kids in do to the foul language resulting from these items being in the way). # Basically do the reverse to install the battery, be sure to connect the positive battery cable first. It is a good idea to have the code for your radio handy which is sometimes needed when the battery is disconnected, although mine did not. Compliments of "Found1" from VWForums

yes it can

the CD player has 2 little black covers on the edge of it, 1 on the left and 1 on the right. take them off(don't loose them cus u'll never find a replacemnt for them) then use 2 DIN tools(or just use a hanger cut 2 pices of and bend them into a "U" shape) and insert into the 4 holes that are revealed after taking the little covers off. push the DIN tools away from the radio and pull the radio out at the same time.

I think relay is located directly under dash below steering wheel?

how do I change spark plugs on 2002 Toyota tacoma v4

You have to remove the splash guard inside the wheel well to access the lamp 1. Turn the wheel to the outside to access the two screws towards the front of the wheel well. 2. You then need to remove two plastic plugs connecting the wheel well splash guard to a "body side" splash guard. Note that there are two screws that connect the splash guard to the bumper. These screws are accessible from the bottom of the bumper. You may want to jack up the vehicle to gain access to these screws. 3. Now note that I didn't remove the entire wheel well splash guard. By removing the screws at the front I was able to push the guard aside to access the bulb. 4. It was difficult to remove the wire harness cable from the bulb. The plastic clip that secures it in place is much like the one on the headlamp and it is located (at least mine was) towards the bottom of the vehicle. You have to release this plastic clip to disconnect the wire harness. 5. Disconnect the harness 6. Then I had to use a needle nose pliers to rotate the lamp counterclockwise to remove it from the socket. 7. Using the needle nose pliers I then inserted the new lamp, turning clockwise to secure it in place 8. Connect the wire harness 9. Re-connect the splash guard Good luck.

For the 1.8T, the sensor is located near the oil filter, set back into a small alcove just above the oil pan and between the oil filter and the end of the engine block nearest the transmission. It's easiest to reach it from below. BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT: it's a good idea to clean up as much grime from the area as possible so you don't intorduce more dirt into that area. There is a 10mm bolt above the sensor; remove it completely. (You'll need about 2" length on the socket.) Then you need to wrestle the sensor out. There's an O-ring on the sensor that prevents it from coming out easily, although it will rotate in place. I had to pry mine out using a screwdriver. Once you pop it out 1/8" it will then be free. Pull it straight out. I don't have any knowledge about other engines, sorry.

1. Front of the seat, at the base, is a trim panel, remove trim panel gently, this gives access to the front seat attachment bolts. 2. Remove bolts and tip seat rearwards. 3.Remove battery cover and you have access to the battery

Let me add to this..... There are two plastic covers at the front of the seat on the floor. You need to lift both of them up. That exposes a fastener that will require a 10mm "triple square" male tool. This is similar to the familiar Torx (6 point star) fastener except it has 12 points instead of 6 points. This tool is available at many auto supply places, without it, you will NOT replace the battery. Remove both screws (they're TIGHT!!!), remove the plastic trim pieces from the rear of the seat slide assembly (carefully snap off) Tilt the seat back all the way forward, slide the seat forward almost all the way but leave space to miss the steering wheel. Now push back on the seat back and the entire seat will tilt to the rear exposing the battery box under the drivers seat. There are four clips that hold the cover on, unhook them, remove the torx screw holding the heater deflector to the battery box lid, remove the wire tie holding the wire to the top of the box and remove the box cover. Now you see the battery. Remove the gas vent plastic pipe from the front, remove the metal cover at the front left corner (10mm socket) it will not come out until you remove the (-) cable but don't just yet. remove the side clamp (10mm socket) and the battery is loose and free. It would be smart (but not required) to provide a 12 volt electrical source to the battery terminals as you replace the battery to help keep all of the radio GPS etc, settings. Remove the terminals, lift out the battery. Now reinstall it all the opposite of how you removed it. I believe VW hired a team of engineers for a year to design the HARDEST battery replacement system that anyone could devise!!! Dave

Get one of those V-shaped interior door removers if you can or use any thing with an inch wide or so flat end that you can slip between the panel and the metal part of the door. If you have an old TABLE spoon that you can pound flat and then cut a V-shape notch in the center edge would work too. The panel has a series of "plugs" that plug into holes in the sheet metal. You have to try to separate the panel AT the "plug" areas so you have the best leverage. You have to carefully pry the plugs that the panel is popped into away from the door. The panel is just a fibre wood type so it doesn't take much to rip open the slots that the plugs are attached to. There's 20 or so pugs so slow and easy.

FIRST!! Make sure you use an alternate power source before ever disconnecting the battery on any VW that has a built in security system. If you don't you will experience lots of grief that is avoidable.

I did learned the hard way and it is not worth it, especially for those people that did not take care in saving their VW's owners manual that has a section about how to reset the security code on the Radio. If you get stuck in this situation you have two options, you can either get the correct tools and pull the radio (the codes are on the top of the unit) or make a trip to the dealer so they can look it up for you based on the VIN for a fee.

HOW TO START OUT RIGHT - Get a alternate power source unit from the dealer (I think Harbor Freight has them too) or make your own using a 9 volt battery or any battery close to 12 volts. Get yourself a cigarette power adapter from radio shack or harbor freight and make two leads off of it with alligator clips on the end following the color codes on the plug. . Red for Positive and Black for negative. Then plug the cigarette adapter into the orifice in your console marked POWER Outlet and connect the clips to the correct sides of your 9 volt battery (or other). Now you can remove the battery without loosing everything. Some forums also say that this will also cause problems with the programming for your injection if an alternate power source is not used. I did not notice a difference in power, however I did get a "running lean" code right after my mishap that did not fire off an idiot light but I truly believe if I had not reset mine I would have caused engine damage resulting from scoring due to the lean condition.

Note - Make sure not to let the positive battery cable touch the inner fender or core support. This grounding will ruin your attempt to do it right. Simply slide an old glove over the positive cable while transfering batteries so it's isolated.

VW 101 aka. BusaBanshee

Marysville Washington

You will need a half inch socket and a10 mm socket, plenty of extensions, and a Phillips screwdriver. Also a channel lock and/or slipjoint pliers.

Remove the air filter. Take notes or pictures to remember where everything goes.

Remove the 10mm screws that hold the battery in place. There are three or four of them. One goes through a small plate in front.

Before I started, I had people at Merchants Automotive tell me that to get the battery out I would need to remove the left front tire, to access a bolt, I suppose. I also had a mechanic at Advance Auto parts tell me I would have to remove the headlight. Both of these guys were wrong. However, you will have to remove the air filter and the battery to get to the driver's side headlight.

But you asked about the battery. Make sure you have the exact right size replacement battery, or you will have a nightmare if the new battery is too big.

Took two of us about two hours on my driveway. My experience was obsolete and Jerome had experience. But I could have probably done it myself in about two hours if my grand-daughter was there to hold the flashlight.

You will have to reset the radio and a couple other things after you reconnect the battery. Your battery supplier will give you money back if you return the old battery.

Steve Coerper

'stevekerp' in Raleigh, North-Carolina

Classic Beetle: Shell Rotella T 15W40. You can use any heavy-duty oil you like--other brands include Chevron Delo 400 and Castrol Tection Extra.

Note from long time classic beetle owner: I prefer Castrol GTX 20W50 in a classic Beetle.

(Note to long term classic beetle owner: I used to run the same stuff. Rotella is made for service in heavy-duty diesels, which run hot compared to a watercooled gas engine. Bug engines also run hot...so I have come to enjoy using heavy-duty oil. If you want to stick with a Castrol product, try Castrol Tection Extra. When you're running big rig oil, there's no "what viscosity do I use?" about it: ALL of it is 15W40.)

New Beetle: 5W20, Any name brand will do but I like Castrol. Synthetic is fine.

The new beetles from 1998 up use a special oil,and if you don't use the right one you are going to have problems with overheating.My oil is a 0-40 and it is more expensive but I don't have the overheating problem I had when they changed the oil and used the 5-30 synthetic.I got mine at Walmart it was 6.49 a quart.The 99 beetle takes 4 and a half quarts.