VW New Beetle

The only secret to a successful business that I know of is this:

Provide a demanded, quality product (or service) at a fair price cost effectively.

Please describe the noise and how often you hear it.

Does it happen more often at high speed? low speed? when car is moving? braking?

Otherwise it could be your weird brother in the back seat! ::D

dex-cool

The coolant temp sensor on a 2003 Chevy S10 V6 is located on the front of the intake manifold. To replace simply unscrew the old sensor and screw on the new one.

A Honda top speed will in general top out at 70- 75 mph, depending on conditions and rider weight.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 if a V8, and the distribuetor rotates counter clockwise.

Open the 2003 Lincoln engine compartment hood. Take hold of the headlight light bulb connector. Push the light bulb connector in and turn at the same time. The light bulb will come out. Reverse the process to install the new light bulb.

It is perfectly normal if it is blue. It is telling you that the car has not completely warmed up yet. You can drive it, but shouldn't "push" it. Drive at lower speeds for just a few minutes until the car has heated up and the light will go out. This information came from my owner's manual which also says to drive it and not let it "warm up" as most people do, just to go at a slower speed until it is warmed.

IF the light is blue , the coolant level is a little low. Add water to the tank. Stop adding when the water level is a little above max level. This is what I had to do to mine. The light should go off.

I have a 1.8L Turbo. The blue light means that the car isn't completely warmed up yet. I was told to not drive it hard until that light went away. One day it was red... that is an issue. You need more coolant or there is a bigger issu.

I am a Ford Mechanic and I happen to own a 94 Lexus ES300, and your not going to like this....to get to the three plugs in the back you have to put a jack up the car, put jack stands under the front of the car, then you take the jack put a piece of wood on it so you dont damage the oil pan, raise the jack under the engine just enough to take the pressure off the engine mounts. Then you have to unbolt and remove the engine mounts, then lower the jack. now the engine will be low enough so you can access the rear plugs. RECOMENDATION...If I were you sence changing the plugs on this car is such a pain I would spend a few extra dollars and get the pre-gapped Bosch Platinum 4 prong spark plugs, they last the life of the vehicle and never have to be re-gapped. This way as painfull as changing them is, you will NEVER have to do it again.-Sean All you need it a Flexable adapter that can connects to your extention and you can add extentions and reach them from the top.. Still not easy but reachable. Regards.

To disarm the alarm without the remote control, just incase your remote/blip key doesn't work:

- unlock the doors with the key and enter the vehicle (this will start the alarm off)

- within 10 seconds of the alarm sounding, press and hold the ultrasonics override switch (to the right of the steering wheel) whilst turning on the ignition.

If necessary, repeat the procedure if the siren restarts (after 30 seconds)

I have to do this each time I disconnect and reconnect the battery.

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To reconnect a disconnected battery without the alarm going off, simply put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "ignition on" position. Then connect your battery . Dead easy and peaceful too! Oh! remember to remove your keys before you forget where you put them!!

Look at the plastic signal lens cover, near the rear, closest to the wheel and you will see a small 1/4" square screw cover. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pop the screw cover off to reveal a Philips head screw. Remove this screw and the complete lens assembly will pull out. Once removed, the bulb holder will pull out from the lens cover assy. Replace the bulb with a new #1157 yellow bulb and reverse this procedure to reinstall.

Behind the left hand headlight assembly in the engine compartment. They are all black in color and not labeled so from here you're on your own.Bud Sisto

The cabin air filter is located inside of the dash. It is accessed through a removable panel on the passenger side.

The warning light will stay on and periodically beep at you if you do not retract the top and hold the button in position long enough to allow the secondary "motor catch" to lock the top in place. When the top retracts it will appear to stop, but then you will hear a different sound as the top then retracts an additional 1-2 inches as it locks into place.

There is a compartment on the right side underneath the steering wheel! take that off and all the relays are there.

Yes you can install an AC on a vintage VW Beetle. However, If it has the stock motor in it (probably 1500 cc) I would not recomend it without taking other precautions to help keep the engine cool. You will also lose a lot of horsepower (take off and running power not to mention fuel mileage) if you make this addition. It has been many years since I was into VWs but I believe the 1600 cc is something like 53 horsepower but don't qoute me. I have slept a lot since the early 90's and just don't remember for sure. I would recomend picking up one of the VW mags from a store sometime. There used to be two "VW Trends" and "Hot VWs". If I remember right, VW Trends had the most helpful information and less women in string bikinis. You will be able to find plenty of places that will sell you an aftermarket AC to install on your VW. They probably have covered it at some point in one of the magazines also. You can order backorder issues from them that have all of the info you are looking for.

Oh boy.

If the car's chassis number starts with "111" it's a 1971-year 111; if it starts with "113" it's a 1973-year 111.

Chassis number and type number are two totally different things, though, and we're now talking types.

The difference between a 111 and a 113? The 111 is the Deluxe Beetle. There is also a Standard Beetle that falls into type 111; these were only for Third World countries because they were even more rudimentary than the Bugs we got here. Anyway, this car had the flat steel dash, the standard front suspension and the standing-on-edge spare tire.

The 113 is the flat-windshield Super Beetle. It was two inches wider in the back (which is why rear spoilers for type 111 won't fit on a Super), it's got MacPherson strut front suspension, the spare tire lies flat in the trunk and there were a couple other things I don't remember. I think the dash was a little different, but it was still very similar to the one in the 111.

The curved-windshield Super is type 1311. Both cars' chassis number starts with "13." 111 is a 1971, 113 is a 1973 The third number also indicates the year of the vw.

With the hood popped & the negative line disconnected from the battery look behind the headlight and you'll see a wiring cluster going into a round rubber boot. There is a release button on the wiring cluster. Depress it and remove. You may have to wiggle it back and forth until it pulls out. It's plugged directly into the bulb. Remove the rubber boot. You'll need a short Phillips head screw driver. Look into the back of the headlight and you'll see a wire that's held in place with a screw on one side. This wire is a retention clip and holds the bulb securly in place. (kind of looks like a paper clip that's made into a pretzel) I would recommend NOT removing the screw completely, but just loosen it a couple of turns. You'll need to squeeze the clip until it pops out from underneath the head of the screw. Try not to torque this assembly too much as it is made of a hard plastic and can break off. And remember the placement of the clip as you'll need to put it back once the bulb is replaced. The bulb should come right out. (BTW: this is a H4 type bulb and should not be touched by bare fingertips. The oil from your fingers can pass itself to the bulb causing it to break when illuminated) Put the new bulb in and let it rest inside the bulb housing. (it's keyed to fit in only one way) Here's the hard part... You need to put the retention clip back and tighten the screw that holds it in place. If you've never done this it can be tricky. You'll know when it's back in place when the bulb has little to no play. Tighten the screw and be sure not to over torque it as it is screwed into plastic and will strip or break off. Replace the rubber boot. Be sure to make the boot tight. Clip on the wiring cluster until it's firm. You're done.

NOTE: this looks like it is the same design as my 2000 Galant. Check those instructions quickly to see it my tips would help. I do not disconnect the battery for this. If you are even mildly careful, there is no need. Nothing is exposed to short out. Just make sure the car and lights are OFF. If you disconnect the battery, you are going to be back here asking how to find out your radio reset code with the other 10,000 readers that made that mistake.

The 2004 Volkswagon Bettle OBD 2 port is on lower edge of dash at left side

I would have to say the easiest way and probably the cheapest way to lower the front end of a Vdub is to just buy some new springs. You can get into some pretty crazy set ups for lowering the front and rear but they can get pretty expensive. I have a 01 GTI VR6 and got some neuspeed sport springs and it lowered the car nearly 2" in the front and 1.6ish in the back and cost me for springs and to have them installed 380 and took a little more then an hour. But you will be surpised at the sites that are out there for aftermarket parts for Vdubs. If its an older beatle I'm not to sure but I'm sure you can find something on the web for them.

You need to replaced the starter or the alternator.

the twisty thing that turns your lights on and off.. PULL on it. they should come on.