Car Stalling Problems

The idle air control valve is located under the throttle body. It is mounted on the bottom and it has a 3-wire plug along with 2 coolant lines.

if its a manual then it could be three things, clutch cable or throttle cable, or IAC (idle air control valve) but if its an automatic it could be throttle cable or IAC.

The idle is set too low or there is an electrical problem

try accelerating slowly. if it doesnt stall, you may have to keep accelerating slowly[until someone else can diagnose tyhe problem]

Could be several things, from a leaking vacuum hose (unlikely if it is stalling occasionally), worn spark plugs, (which would also cause hard starting, hesitation). Most likely it is the idle sensor, which is located on the intake close to where the air filter tube goes into the engine. It is a small piece, with a wire attached to it. It most likely would follow with a check engine light, if equipped, that would come on after the stall. It's not an expensive piece, and not hard to install.

Because you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the power brake booster. If you take and plug the hose that goes to your brake booster from the intake manifold the problem will go away. Be carefull, because your braking ability will also be severely compromised. This means that you may have a hard time stoping the vehicle. It is likely that you havea crack in the diaphragm in your booster. I am guesing that you also have a change in idle when you appl the brakes. If this is indeed the problem, you have to change the diaphragm or the whole booster itself.

Possible a bad or corroded ground cable .

First thing is to turn your heater on, all the way hot. See if heat is coming out of the vents. If no heat then immediately pull over and turn off vehicle. That means that either you have lost all your coolant or your water pump is not circulating your coolant.

If you still have hot air coming out of your vent, then start to pull over and decrease your speed. Watch your gauge closely. If your fan is not turning you can be overheating due to trying to go up a hill or maintain freeway speeds and your fan is not comin on to help cool. In this case you want to keep air flowing through your radiator and take load off of your engine by letting off the gas. It is the fastest way to cool your engine.

If after a minute or two of decreased driving your vehicle has not cooled down at all. Immediately pull over and turn off your engine. This could be a failed thermostat. If you have a car or minivan, odds are you have an electric fan, so keep your key turned to on, engine off. listen for your fan turning under your hood. If no noise then you can just turn your key off completely. If you hear your fan, you want to keep your key on to continue to cool your engine down. Call a towtruck, do not try and attempt to drive again. It will overheat again and if you have not damaged your engine, you probaly will by continuing to drive.

All of this must be done within a few minutes. Most engines nowadays are aluminum, and they damae very quickly in overheating conditions.

Fuel injectors would be a good place to start, they require regular cleaning, and it is not uncommon for them to fail.

Stall or stop completely?

Does it restart after it stalls or does it have to wait a few minutes?

When it stalls does it still turn over or act as if power is not going to the starter?

Not enough info to answer this question.

I owned a 1998 honda civic. It did this one time... in one day .... all day .... and the worst of all days because I had a cross country meet. I had to be jump started several times. On the way home from the busy busy day I had the battery replaced at auto zone. problem fixed. I wished that all car problems were this easy to remedy.

Yes

Could be water.

I just started and ran a 79 T-Bird for an hour and fifteen minutes with gas that was last put in in (I am not making this up) April of 2004.

i believe around 1998.

Carbon Dioxide, a mixture of the elements carbon and oxygen, mixed creates a harmful compound to our enviorment. Nitrous oxides, water vapor, carbon monoxide, unburned hydrocarbons.

fuel injectors need to be cleaned and/or fuel filter needs to be replaced..it can also be for numerous reasons..like a bad sensor or an early indication of a failing ecu..but in most cases it's one of the 2 fore mentioned faults.if you do clean the injectors and replace the fuel filter and the car continues to 'stall' then IMMEDIATELY stop using it and see a mechanic because if it's a failing ecu; continuance of operating the car will blow the ecu beyond repair, ecus are expensive to replace and without it the car will be written-off. -freebsdkid

this happened to my 98 intrigue, i replaced the spark plugs and hasn't happened yet...worse case scenario you might have to replace the spark plug wires as well but I've only replaced the plugs and its fine.

I am having the same problem with my car... I push on the gas and somtimes my car will just cut off on me like the fuel wasnt being delivered, I am thinking it could be alot of issues, spark plugs need to be changed or the wires and distributor or the o2 sensors but that's just what I ve been told

transmission is slipping

It is bolted onto the throttle body.

Number of issues - Timing, plus/injectors need a clean etc. Might be worth dropping by a garage that can put your car on their test machine and check the electrics and firing. It could also be gear issue where the vehicle is to high a gear dropping the revs to low on stopping

It will be in the exhaust system about half the way back. It looks like a muffler

but it will be before the muffler. It is closer to the engine.

It could be your torque converter stays locked up and it would act like a standard shift car would if you were coming to a stop without pushing in the clutch pedal.

had a 1988 Buick somerset that did the same thing-- took it to a local repair shop an they unpluged a sensor on the transmittion and never had a bit of problems with it after that