Car Starting Problems

There are only three possibilities or any combination thereof:

It's either fuel, ignition or compression.

I know that doesn't give much information, and unfortunately, that's the best that anyone can do without seeing the vehicle or knowing more about the problems.

Fuel delivery is a quick and easy thing to diagnose. Purchase a can of starting fluid and spray it into the throttle body as an assistant attempts to start the engine. If the engine starts briefly, you have a fuel problem. The starting fluid has replaced the normal fuel and if the engine runs with starting fluid, everything else just checked out ok. At that point, check the fuel pressure at the pressure test port. You may need to buy, rent or borrow a fuel pressure gauge and while you're at it, see if you can figure out how much pressure you're supposed to have. Just slowly isolate the problem, one piece at a time and you'll get there.

If the starting fluid didn't help, check for spark. Sometimes an ECM can go bad and you won't get any spark. If that's the case, you'll get a computer diagnostic code. In this case, buy, rent or borrow a code scanner for your vehicle and determine what if any codes are showing. The computer will tell you if it thinks anything electronic is wrong.

Unfortunately, the computer doesn't usually tell us much about the fuel pump or fuel pressure, so good luck with that.

you need to check your crank sensor it will not let spark to your plugs if it is not reading crank motion. It is located in front of the oil pan under the engine; cost about a hundred bucks and very easy to change

I have an 02 Santa Fe 2.7 engine. Car died out in the middle of traffic w/ no warning, no noise just stopped. As it turns out when my husband disconected the battery after 5 mins. it erased all the engine codes & it won't give them to u again till the car starts & u drive it for 30 mins. for it reset codes..... Well our Santa Fe wouldn't start... so we had to go at this blind sighted. After 2 weeks of research on the net I found out that something finally gave in the car & engine set itself to defult code & it actually died like that because it's a safety feature & the car shuts itself down.... no fuel no spark so ensure no further damage of engine. I checked the battery & cables, fuses, relays & 2 weeks b4 this I had just done a tune up changing the plugs, wires & oil & filter. So then (after research) we changed the crank shift sensor & boy was that bad.... exposed wires touching each other. The fuel cut off switch turned back on at this point. For sure that had to b it..... nope she would crank but still not start. Then we changed the camshaft sensor..... put the car together.....nope. Still wouldn't start. Found out that a faulty air mass flow sensor would make the car not start too if it wore out completely. So we unplugged that sensor because other sites said it was safe to do this. If car started then we new we needed a new air mass flow sensor. No car still wouldn't engage. I was running out of things to look up. I was gettin upset because evertone elses story had a happy ending.... why did mine not wanna work? Then I saw a site that said if u have a faulty engine control module that u could test it by starting the car & bangin on the dash at the same time & c if that help it to make a connection. Though I don not recommend this heck I was runnin out of options..... (Keep in mind at this point it still could of been 1 or all 3 of the ignition coills) So I went back to the car to try & start it & bang on the dash at the same time....... I told myself well just for kicks I'll unplug the main relay.... the engine control module in the fuse box & check that out.... no, that's looks good..... then I checked the fuses for the engine control module (keep in mind I already did this in the begining) by darn the 10 A fuse for the engine control module was now shot..... So I took my horn fuse out & put that into it's spot & car starts right up now!!! WooHoo, finally I can tell a happy ending on here too.... I learned to much info to tell u all of it but if u check the ignition coil(s), cpk, maf, camshaft sensor, battery, battery cables, fuses, relays, ecu, fuel pump, fuel pump lines (check for cloggs).... that's about it...... But don't take my word for it I am only a house wife who found alot of info on the net & relayed that info to my husband.... I hope this info can help others to..... hopefully w/out so much research time. P.S. we didn't have any special tools to do any of this work...... so for any of the do it yourselfers.... it was actually more intimidating thinking .... it's a newer car can we fix it? But once my husband actually got under there it wasn't that bad at all. Time consuming & hard.... but do-able.... One more thing if u change the plugs & wires on ur Santa Fe & then the car go crazy w/ a mind of own engine reving..... that happens when u acidently pull one of the cable wires out of it's space.... u must put that back in place & I think tighten that back up..... It happened to us.... it was a 5 min fix..... can't remember just exactly what my husband did..... but if that happens it the cable was pulled out of groove or space & needs to go back...... Good Luck & Don't Give Up!

Open the X5 hood. Locate the positive towards the back on the driver side. It is cover with a black + cap. Locate the negative on the body (look for a nut tied to the chassis)

connect the jump wire to the first car. Connect the negative wire to X5, then the positive red clip to the positive. Start the first car (if the battery of X5 is really dead, let the first car run for about 5-10mins. Then start the X5. Remove the jump wire in reverse order. Remove positive first, the negative.

I hear that the problem is the pressure to the fuel pump. Also have heard that the alternator is the problem. To be honest, I cannot figure out why mine will not start either. I have replaced the fuel filter, O2 sensors, thermostat, reset the inertia switch, and spark plugs and wires.... nothing has worked yet.

I have had the same problem, 2cd Explorer. I replaced the fuel relay. No problems now

One thing I would check first: The fuel filter could be partially blocked and you could have sediment that gets stirred up when you start the engine further blocking the filter. After it sets for a while enough of the sediment could move out of the way to allow a small amount of fuel to get past. If that isn't the case, check to see if there is any spark after the engine starts and then fails to start again. Pull one of the sparkplug wires and connect it to a spare sparkplug. Set the sparkplug on a part of the engine that is solid metal and is well grounded. It doesn't even need to be a sparkplug that fits the car. Have a friend attempt to start the engine and watch the sparkplug for signs of a good hot spark. If the engine won't run and you have no spark, you probably have a bad component or connection. Sometimes they can be difficult to diagnose. Get back to me if you can't find out what's wrong and I'll see if I can help you figure out what to check next. a_d_kirkwood@excite.com It is also possible that you might have vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body or between the intake manifold and the engine

The fuel pump is a mechanical unit. Depending on the engine its probably on the drivers side, and has a filter canister on the bottom of it. These filters are known to stop up, and the pump may be bad.

I my experience, I would next check out the distributor and make sure that it and the #1 cylinder are aligned. Then if not that, goto your timing and check to see if the timing is off.. does it turn over slowly or not at all ,,you need to explain a little more for me to help you In my experience with a 94 ford f150, it was the cylinoid!! If you had your vehicle checked at a professional auto shop, go get your money back. It is the rules and regulations in most shops that they not only check the battery and starter, but to also check the distributer and the cylinoid as well. I have had my truck for 8-9yrs now and I have always had it annually checked thoroughly...it has kept me from walking home when I needed a rig to drive.

most likely your ignition switch is bad. is not breaking the circuit.

Or your vehicale is running so rich (air to fuel ratio) that the catalitic converter is glowing red hot from working so hard to burn up the unburned fuel. So in theory even though you turn off the ignition which usually kills power to the coils ( the source of ignition) your car will continue to run because now the source of ignition is taking over by the red hot cats. This is most common on carbed vehicales, because fuel injected vehicales supply of gas along with ignition is killed when the ignition is switched off.

I would say no, not unless it has a handle or something, even then i am not sure.

You have to have a battery with just a little bit of juice in it to roll start a manual transmission car. Just enough to fire the spark plugs and that takes very little. Only manual transmissions can be roll started not automatics.

I have a 1993 Dodge Stealth that was running fine then with 5 minutes engine oil blew out under neath the car. their is no oil in the radiator but the car would not start. what happened. If a head gasket blew would n't the oil look milkie color.

Although maybe possible, most likely not probable. Symptoms of a bad tps include rough idling, fuel-rich signs such as fouled spark plugs, black smoke ROM the exhaust, etc. I have never seen a case where the symptoms were ignored to the point where the vehicle would not start.

I turned off the AC panel, turned the key counterclockwise, set it back to off, then back to on and then it started back up. I took a few seconds in between each turn of the key. Hope this works

Found the problem....I changed the Idle Air Control Valve. Thnaks to all that answered my question.

Two things I can think of:

Carbon build-up on the injectors; solution: speed on the highway (65+ MPH).

Idle is set too low; solution: find the idling screw and turn it up.

You probably have a 4.6 motor? If so you may have egr passageways plugging up. Although they usually are a problem whem warm if this is true. Next guess is a sensor such as a coolant temp sensor. It monitors the coolant temperature and tells the computer to adjust the fuel/air ratio. It feeds it more fuel when cold to warm it quicker. If the sensor is telling the computer bad info it may be starving or dumping too much fuel in. The computer controls the idle (no adjustment).

I had similar problem on a 96. I changed the air mass flow sensor and it ran like a champ. Took about 15 minutes. Very simple. Part costs about $85 remanufactured. Dealer tried to charge me about $300 to replace!!!

There are two reasons a car wont start. Either it doesn't have fuel, or it doesn't have power. If the car cranks and doesn't sound like its giving out, you have power. For one reason or another your not getting fuel. You could be out of gas, have bad injectors. That would be the first 2 things to check.

i had a problem similar to this in my 94 z28. i would turn the key and it would make the sound like it was trying to start but wouldn't do it so i took it in to mechanic and the problem was the starter. i had it replaced(kind of an expensive job) and the car has been starting up nicely ever since.

The starter can be seen under the intake piping. Remove the pipe from the throttle body, and then you'll see the starter. You should be able to trace the negative battery cable to it. It has three bolts and can require much finesse to remove once unbolted.

It could be a lot of things. Does it turn over? If not it could be a low battery, contacts that are corroded or not tight enough, or you're not in park or neutral. If it does, it could be flooded (especially if it's carbureted) making it smell a lot like gas, or there could be humidity in the distributor. There are lots of other reasons, but in my experience these are the most common.

You blew the voltage regulator. Depending on the model, it is either a separate component or located inside of your alternator. Based on your problem, I would guess you need a new alternator. Replace it and your car will be fine.

Most voyagers' starters are located one the left bank of the block on (the side closest to the radiator) right below the exhaust manifold against the transmission case where it bolts to the engine. the 3 bolts holding it on bolts come through the transmission case and in some cases the lower engine mounting braket depending on year and engine size of your particular application threaded side of the bolts pointing toward the front of the engine (passengers side of car) Be sure to disconnect the battery prior to removing it or any electrical leads attached. good luck!

It can be multiple things it could be the batter it could be your ignition many things can be causing it can you tell me if it tries to turn over or what it does when you try if your dome lights or head lights are very dim its your battery if it starts when jumping it most likely your battery.

i would start wit the spark plug wires then move to the spark plugs and coil or the D cap what ever one u have! if u do all that and it keeps doing it move on to the fuel filter then the injectors after all the your problem should be taken care of!

depending on year..... (fuel injection)cold start valve not working try removing it and clean it with carb cleaner if it dont work replace it. (carburettor when cold only) choke not working undo the 3 small screws holdong the choke mechanism to the carb turn the choke unit so the tension on the brass butterfly tightens (at top of carb primary venturi) but not too much if the butterfly is already shut speed up the choke idle speed located behind and to the rear of the choke mechanism. damp in ignition system ( but this would usuall cause running problems too) remove distributor cap dry inside with a rag and spray wd40 or water repellant and refit cap.. also spray around spark plugs and coil, but remember to dry first cos wd4o can trap the damp inside added by bheilers: you also might consider checking the OVPR (overvoltage Protection Relay) located on the firewall in the engine compartment behind the batter on most models. It would either have 2 10 amp fuses on the top or if its a aftermarket brand, would have a single 10amp fuse. Check the fuse(s) if they or it is blown replace and try starting the car again. the OVPR is a common issue with the 190 and 300 series MB's

Make sure battery is charged. Clean all wire connection at battery & at the starter. Make sure trans is in neutral or park completely or clutch pedal is completely depressed (check if neutral switch is ok) If no response from these check out solenoid, starter 7 innition switch & all wires/connectors in starting circuit. Here is another thing to look for-make sure the ground strap is connected to block & frame/body. Check the fuse & relay. They are located in the fuses box on the fender well in the engine compartment

You may have a loose or corroded ground connection. Not just the battery ground but the engine to chassis ground. You may also have a bad battery cable. If you see swelling on any part of the cable, replace it. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. Did you replace the starter solenoid with the starter, or is it a separate item? If the solenoid is separate from the starter, it is probably bad. It is unlikely that the ignition switch is bad, but possible.

If it will not turn over you have an electrical problem. Start by removing the battery cables and cleaning the cables and battery posts. If that does not solve the problem, then put a charger on the battery and let it fully charge. Turn on your headlights and try to start the car. If it still will not turn over and the lights do not dim you probably have a bad starter or starter solenoid. But make sure your battery is good. If you can jump start it with another vehicle the battery is bad. It can also be a defective ignition switch.

Try charging the battery first. if it wount chage it needa replaced. There are a lot of good batteries on the market and the difference in the price is the length of the warranty. Don't get one that is too small as it will fail soomer. GoodluckJoe