Car Starting Problems

where is the 2002 oldsmobile alero cruise control vacuum line?

Bad Battery, bad solenoid, bad starter, bad battery cables or dirty terminals for starters!

disconnect + battery terminal take out 2 bolt out of starter from the engine block take off the wires remebering where they go do in reverse order to reconnect

Typically, the first indication is the starter solenoid clicks but the starter does not spin. This indicates a dead or weak spot on the armature where the brushes must make good contact. Usually, trying to start the engine a couple more times will result in success. This could go on for a very long time before you actually need to replace the starter (I know). But, it is better to replace as soon as this happens a couple times, because you just don't know when it won't resuscitate itself someday. The other indication that a starter is going bad (or is bad) is if it pulls the battery way down when you try to start. This indicates a shorting of the armature to ground during rotation. Replace immediately.

lack of fuel

for safety measures after any accident the innertia swish kick on

probably fuel regulator go yo junk yard and buy a used throttle body bolts on easy

chances are if you don' t need headlights or air conditioning or other high current using accessories , you would never know that the alternator was in the process of failing! The time you will find out is when it is 10 below zero and you wear down the battery by cranking the starter , then put the fan on high for heat , and then drive in the dark u will face various problms u will face problm starting engine u will have dim headlights ac n blower will not be that efficient..

Check for fuel pressure and spark on the no start days.

I have a 1994 B3000 that started doing that several years back. It was a relay that was located within a black box on the drivers side of the engine (I believe there are 3 relays in the box). I found that one of the relays was sticking. When lightly 'tapped' on it would release and the engine would start. After replacing it, the problem went away. Note Did they have the "Fuel Cutoff Switch" in those years of pickups? Typically, it's designed to remove power from the fuel system in the case of an imact or jarring. Check to see if it was somehow popped, and just push the button back in if you have one. Should be under the dash, right above or at the top of the carpet/floor mat passenger side. Little box with a single plug and a red button at the top typically. It may also be the ignition module. I had the same problem with my '94 B-3000. If it sometimes dies on you while driving it probably is the same thing. After replacing it the problem went away.The module is easy to replace. It is located on tn the front of the vehicle , drivers' side next to the radiator. Also tapping it several times may get you by until it can be replaced.
good Luck.

Check the starter solenoid Well, i'd start by making sure it's getting enough power from the jump. That being said, perhaps the starter is malfunctioning. 2 answer It is easy. Just check whether there is corrosion on terminals on your battery. Brush termials and clamps and you are done.

no the car will not start timing has to be set again

Car would either have to be running or alternator removed for bench test

check your battery connections

Turn the fuel on and then take the gas hose that connects to the carberator off and if it leaks gas then the caberator should be receiving it

The same thing happened in my Plymouth Turismo awhile back..I'm sorry to say but your engine seized..

Fuel filter was replaced less than a year ago. Battery is original, factory. Car ('02 Saturn SL1) has about 125,000 miles on it. Problem is intermittent and usually occurs after car has been running and is turned off and back on. One final note: The car will turn over, run, all electrical works, no dimming of headlights. Car can be driven but will stall when idling later. Quick fix seems to be simply turning the car off then back on immediately.

I have the same problem with my 95 Eagle. It isn't the alternator - I have plenty of power to turn the engine over. I'm not getting any spark to turn over the distributor. The coil in the distributor is good.

When replacing car parts it is important to have the diagrams for the wiring. The wiring diagram for the fuel pump of this car can be found in its maintenance manual.

Replacing battery terminals??? How did you accomplish that. Do you mean you replaced the battery or are you referring to the battery cables? If you replaced the cables are you sure you have them connected correcty and tight. Especially the ground connection. Take a reading with an ohm meter from the neg battery post to the engine or chassis. If the circuit is open, you have a bad connection.

I'm just shooting in the dark here, but it sounds like when you turn the ignition key to RUN your pump comes on for 1-2 sec then shuts off automatically? It's functioning correctly. However, if you turn the ign key to START, crank the engine and the pump doesn't come on again, then your EEC possibly is not receiving a PIP signal. Shoot a little starting fluid into the throttle body and crank the engine. If it fire's then your EEC is getting a PIP signal and the ignition system is working. If nothing happens, troubleshoot your ignition system and once that's fixed, then your fuel pump will begin working on it's own again.

Answer

I have a 89 bronco2 with the same problem. It's the fuel pump that you here running. In my case I can't get it to stop running. I think we have a short somewhere or a bad relay. The fuel pump should kick on when you turn the key on but in my case as soon as I touched the positive battery cable to the post it came on and would not shut off.I am still looking for the problem but have narrowed it down to the pump or the wiring on the fuel system.

I had a heck of a time finding it in my 1988. Keep in mind that the engine sits in there sideways, so the "back" of the engine, or flywheel is actually on the driver's side (the front is on the passenger side). The starter for any vehicle is at the flywheel. Raise the vehicle and crawl underneath from the front on the driver's side. Look for the oil filter. Slightly above and to your left (toward the driver's side wheel well) is the starter. It looks to me like you'll need to drain the motor oil and remove the oil filter to have room to remove the starter.

The starter is in the frount up under the car towards the middle of the car it almost looks like an oil fillter but a bit smaller.

No, it is not necessary.

When you tap on the starter, what you are actually tapping on is the starter solenoid; a device mounted on the starter (on most cars) that engages the starter gear to the engine gear while simultaneously connecting battery power to the starter. When the start solenoid gets to the point where you have to tap it, the remaining life is difficult to predict because it really depends on what's going on inside the solenoid (e.g. how many start cycles it has completed, exposure to elements etc.). However, the good news is you can normally go to an electric motor repair shop and buy a new solenoid for much cheaper than the whole starter, and in many cases, much easier to replace.