Chevy Astro

Get a manual. There are very important torque sequences and other specifications that you will need to know. Local library should have one.

Vacuum hose that runs over the thermostat housing is leaking at that location.

Remove Fan Shroud

Remove Belt

Remove Cooling Fan

Drain Radiator

Remove Radiator Bottom Hose from Water Pump

Unbolt Pump from Engine Block

It is a messy job but doable in 2-3 hours.

Hardest part for me was get the fan off.

adding to answer

I agree on the fan and thermostat was going to be hard.. actually I did not try to remove fan/thermostat from pump.. you must have the special tool or it real bear to get off.. I just remove the hoses from water pump, (there are three) remove the 4 bolts holding the pump and after doing all the above stuff, fan shroud etc and took the whole pump with fan to the local auto parts store that have a machine shop attached to it.. (call to make sure they can remove the fan before making the trip out, and forget auto zone tools they are not the correct ones.)

I was not there when they removed the fan assemble but could see torch marks on the large nut where it was heated up no doubt to help remove it.

Because i got the new pump at the auto supply shop they did not charge for removing the fan assembly. whole process took about 4.5 hrs that included time to get fan removed, buy new pump etc

I also replace the lower water hose, belt tensioner, and idler pulley at same time. The belt was recently replaces but could tell tensoiner and idler were original and with 147K miles thought it was as good idea to replace them. also replace dex cool with new.. actually did not see any buildup of slug etc in old pump, hoses or at engine block ports..

just my $144 dollars worth and 4 hrs.. at repair local shop the cost would have been close to 500+ bucks..

because of low battery voltage

Next to the headlight under the hood, there is a lever with a little button next to it. Press down the button and pull the lever toward the headlight. This is difficult to do, and you will feel like you are going to break something. After pushing the lever completely toward the headlight, the headlight will pop out the front of the car.

Take the lid off the very back of the headlight; it is attached by a plastic lip that will come off fairly easily by pressing down on the tab that comes off the lip. You will now see the bulbs; the one closest to the top is the main headlight (the one further down is the bright). Push the little wire off of the post, and you will release the bulb. Then you can change it.

I swear Volkswagen makes things difficult on purpose.

Just a little added information on the 2001 Beetle passanger headlight replacement. Don't give up! Because I live in the Northeast and it has been four years and never replaced this bulb, things were very dirty. I had to continually move the slide lock back aqn forth until I was able to get it in the complete unlock position. Although it took me about 10 minutes to do this after reading this article. It saved me $85.00 by doing it myself. I am amazed that VW would charge more than $90.00 to replace a $5.50 part.

Thank You for all the help.

Bob

Also - I've been helped greatly in this process by using a bit of WD-40 on the lever/slide mechanism. I'm with Bob in saying, "don't give up!"

One to repair an ignition switch on your Astro Van is buy a replacement steering column from a local salvage yard including the ignition key, and replace the whole steering column. RC Houston, TX

Remove the fuel tank. Mounted inside on the top of the tank.

I would guess the level sensor float-arm is stuck - try banging the bottom of the tank with a 2x4 piece of wood - not too hard, just seeing if the arm will come loose.

If not, essentially the only way of getting at the sensor is by dropping the gas tank.

See "Related Questions" below for more

1, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.

If I had to guess, the windshield wiper switch in the car is bad. It think it's located somewhere among the wire harnesses underneath the dash.

Sort of - depending on model .What motivated you to ask the question ? are you having delayed up-shift points in relation to speed ? or no kickdown from top gear ? etc .Does your trans(looking to rear) front center lower on bellhousing, just inside engine bay behind radiator , have a series of 4 solenoids stacked vertically ? (don't worry) this just helps identify the trans during a year model trans type cross-over ,depending on which market.Main influence is a correctly adjusted throttle to trans cable (for example on earlier series 2 prelude/accords '84- mid '87 cable adjusted one way will give "short-shifts" at lower revs up into the next gear,into top(4th) aiding economy, adjusted another way will delay part throttle upshifts at any given rev point in relation to road speed - giving a more sporty 'hold onto a lower gear' shift pattern,at full throttle from standing start.
Maladjusted can cause problems , is fixable,but, model depending , may not be only cause of 'non-standard' shifting (slipping/soft "flaring" shifts/worn trans aside) hope this helps.Don't fiddle with anything you don't understand your fiddling with.
There again,much to trans shop/dealer chargrin,don't accept a "full trans rebuild" when adjustment,broken vacuum hose etc or honest shop/learned mechanic ('ask Smokey') check would fix.Goodluck(if this was a genuine question) - that will be $200 inspection fee please :-P

There is not a lot of room to work in the door panels of Chevy Astros. You first need to remove the door panel. Start by removing the window crank (if manual window). then remove all visible screws to the panel. Check under any door light covers and any cover that pries off easily. Once all screws and window crank have been removed, pry the panel off. It is held on by door clips - these may break when pulling the panel (replacements are available at auto parts stores or even Lowe's in the specialty fastener drawers. Once panel is removed you will be able to access the door lock. If you are just replacing the cylinder then your job will be easier - if the whole lock needs replacing the job will be tougher. If you can practice on a wrecked van in a junk yard - I would suggest doing this. Maybe get your used part yourself. I have seen many a door panel damaged beyond repair by the novice repairer. If you feel as if you are using too much force to remove anything - you probably are and something you didn't see is still holding the panel on. Good Luck!

need to know normal gas mileage for 96 astro van

You can get a job as a website builder by going to http://www.synthasite.com/. It is a free website builder and you build it by just draging and droping. It's so easy! I have a job as a website builder and I love it! It's like... how can you not build a website with it? Gotta go, gonna build a new website on http://synthasite.com/! Once again, that's http://synthasite.com/

"TURNING OVER AN ENGINE" REFERS TO ROTATING THE CRANKSHAFT, USUALLY BY MEANS OF THE STARTER MOTOR AND THE RING GEAR, IF IT WAS AN OLDER ENGINE YOU COULD USE THE CRANK HANDLE THOUGH THESE WENT OUT OF FASHION DUE TO HIGHER CRANKING SPEED BEING REQUIRED TO START AN ENGINE. PUSHING THE VEHICLE (IF IT WAS MANUAL) WHILE IN GEAR WOULD ALSO TURN THE ENGINE OVER BUT MAKE SURE THE IGNITION WAS SWITCHED OFF UNLESS YOU WANT IT TO START.

Under the driver's seat.

Most trim is held on with double sided tape. Clean the old adhesive off the the back of the molding and the area of the car where the trim goes. Go to autoparts or paint supply place and get 3M double sided tape. It comes in several widths. Get the one that fits closest to the one you need. Clean the area of the car with some clean rubbing alcohol. Then reatach the molding to the car. Hope this helps.

intake gasket or head gasket

When the ABS light stays on it's telling you there is a problem with the ABS system and it is not functioning. There will be a code(s) set. You need to read the code(s) set in the system with the proper equipment in order to begin to make repairs.

Normally the wires and plug in can be purchased at the GM dealership. Will have to cut the wires back if they are melted and solder the wires together. Can also use a heat shrink butt connector to connect wires. Recommend the heater resistor be replaced and the heater blower motor be checked for wear or noisy bearings.

The Blower Motor Resistor is in the Heater/Air Conditioner Housing Under the hood. It is on the Passenger side near the front of the Engine Compartment. Remove the Windshield Washer Fluid Tank and the Radiator Overflow tank to make room to get at things. You can then follow the wires from the Blower Motor, which is over by the Passenger Side Fender in the front of the HVAC Housing. The Reistor is held into the housing with two screws. Un Plug the wires and the two screws to remove it. I had to enlarge the opening some to install the one I bought from Autozone. If you bought the Chevy part it would be a little quicker fix. It took me about 1 to 2 hrs to do on my 99. Good Luck, Mark look on the blower mtr housing under the hood a couple of screws very easy to do

Have someone support the door while you take a thin flat screwdriver and pry the metal clips off of the ends of the old support. Once the clips are off, the old support will pop off. The new one is just pressed into place with the clips on.

I go crazy everytime I have to open the hood on my 98 Chevy Astro. The guys just say "oh it's a Chevy" and they bang the hood. I have found that if I stick a butter knife unde the hood I can open it. What a pain!

Most Vauxhall bits will fit the 2.0 and are usually cheaper - Paula