Chevy Astro

Normally the wires and plug in can be purchased at the GM dealership. Will have to cut the wires back if they are melted and solder the wires together. Can also use a heat shrink butt connector to connect wires. Recommend the heater resistor be replaced and the heater blower motor be checked for wear or noisy bearings.

The Blower Motor Resistor is in the Heater/Air Conditioner Housing Under the hood. It is on the Passenger side near the front of the Engine Compartment. Remove the Windshield Washer Fluid Tank and the Radiator Overflow tank to make room to get at things. You can then follow the wires from the Blower Motor, which is over by the Passenger Side Fender in the front of the HVAC Housing. The Reistor is held into the housing with two screws. Un Plug the wires and the two screws to remove it. I had to enlarge the opening some to install the one I bought from Autozone. If you bought the Chevy part it would be a little quicker fix. It took me about 1 to 2 hrs to do on my 99. Good Luck, Mark look on the blower mtr housing under the hood a couple of screws very easy to do

Have someone support the door while you take a thin flat screwdriver and pry the metal clips off of the ends of the old support. Once the clips are off, the old support will pop off. The new one is just pressed into place with the clips on.

I go crazy everytime I have to open the hood on my 98 Chevy Astro. The guys just say "oh it's a Chevy" and they bang the hood. I have found that if I stick a butter knife unde the hood I can open it. What a pain!

Most Vauxhall bits will fit the 2.0 and are usually cheaper - Paula

There is a black-red wire from the battery to a junction block. From there a brown fuse wire ties to three red wires that feeds the headlight switch, tail light fuse and fog lamp fuse. One of the two black fuse wire leads feeds also joins to a red wire feed to the ignition switch. The grey fuse lead feeds the AC hi speed blower. check that junction block connection for being loose. Fuse, fusable link, connector, keyswitch, fuse panel... Unfortunately, you'll need to track this one down the old fashioned way, one connector at a time.

You might try eBay or post in the Want to Buy sections of some of the firearms related websites.

There is a valve located on the rear of the intake plenum attached directly to the incoming fuel line. (Looks like a tire valve stem) Remove the engine cover inside the van and you will see both (in/out) the lines on the left center of the plenum. There should be a plastic dust cap on valve.

This gate uses two solenoids to pull the latches open, one per side. GM uses a really cheezy little clip to make sure the rod that unlatches the hatch stays attached to the solenoid. Take the screws out of the trim on the inside of the hatch and pull it as far out on the bottom as you can without breaking something. There should be an opening on either side that you can get your fingers in and grab the rod. Pull it toward the center and the latch will open. After the hatch is open you can finish taking the plastic trim off and replace that miserable little clip. Then it's just a matter of getting the trim back on and you are done.

EDIT: If you prefer an easier method, push the side that will partially open, locking it back completely. Then retry opening.

Exactly what I needed to tackle this problem; thanks! I should point out that to get the trim off the upper door requires removal of the inside door handle. The handle has clips that cover to 10mm bolts. After removal of the handle and the above mentioned screws,

prior that baby up as described. Note that in addition to screws, there are approximately four spring clips along the bottom of the trim, one up each side and three at the top.

Slide a putty knife between the trim and vehicle to pinch the springs and help release the trim.

The culprit clip was previously described as "cheezy'; well stated! I chose not to replace the clip, but instead purchased a small 'hitch clip' that simply snapped onto the end of the rod and keeps it in position. Cost: 39 cents plus tax. I did take some photos of the opening and replacement for future reference. If I can figure out how to post to this question, the photos will appear shortly. Hope you already have door conquered, but

thanks for helping me with mine.

Photos, I hope:

http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1828557799#!/album.php?aid=22484&id=1828557799&ref=mf

you dont only a certified repair shop can

the distributer cap is located in the back of the engine and to get to is is relatively painless but you have to remove the engine cover on the inside of the vehicle which is under the dash in the middle of the vehicle which there is 2 big standard screws holding it to the firewall and 2 clamps holding the back side to the floor towards the seat. once you gain access to the engine compartment from the inside of the vehicle you will see the distributor cap right there looking at you. it is usually held on to the distributor by 2 small Phillips screws and will tell you first hand if the cap has not been changed in a while you might want to use a nut driver to break them loose and re-install in just reverse.

Sound is the periodic compression and rarefaction of a medium, this change being produced by a vibrating object or other medium mass. If something vibrates, it starts vibrating the air around at the same speed. These vibrations are transmitted through the medium and sound is produced. Basically, something shakes the air (or water or whatever) back and forth. The shaking gets passed on to all of the air (or whatever) around it, which causes times of higher and lower pressure with a regular rhythm.

2WD Astro Van�s have load problems with their rear differentials. The �Grinding Noise� is a bearing of some type. Axle bearings can be replaced with a moderate to advanced skill set. However any other bearing, pinion, or carrier, require professional tools and a shop press; such an operation is beyond the normal means of almost any auto shop and require a shop with a good machinist or straight gear specialist.

Bearings that go un-repaired for too long result in misalignment of the pinion � carrier set and warping of the axles. None of these operations are easy, or cheap.

I am finding that astro vans are very likely to bend the rear end housing. I am fixing mine for the second time now. The axle housing bends and then puts the carier bearings in a bind. also check the outer ends of the axle shafts for bearing wear. Replace the shafts if you see any pitting or galling. Good luck.

Astro Camp is way up high in the mountains.

well it depends on which parts!

you need to be a little bit more specific here..

15 mm

How much does it fluctuate? It is normal for oil pressure to rise maybe 20 pounds when you rev the engine. My SUV goes from 40 pounds to 60 pounds and then back down to 40 at idle. this is normal. The faster the engine rotates the more oil pressure is needed to keep everything lubricated properly.

it could be a exhaust leak.

On my Astro, the firing order is located on the distributor cap- Where each plug wire goes into the cap, there is a number on the cap-find#1 go clockwise for the next number etc. That's your firing order

It is on the lift support shocks on the rear window hatch. Each side has one.

What does IAT stand for

I also want to know how it comes free from the engine after all bolts are removed? If anyone knows how, please share your experience or knowledge. I tried to pound it free; also used a sharp flat bar with heavy hammer to split it free from the engine, but it does NOT begin to break apart. thanks so much for anyone's help. Please send info' to: art.zimmer@gmail.com

The prefix astro means the Greek word 'star'.