Crankcases and PCV Valves

You're right - not always!

For example, as per the "Related Question" below, the pcv valve on a 3.0 DOHC is down below the egr / upper intake manifold area.

From the "Related Question" for the DOHC pcv valve, there are links to a variety of the model years and engine combinations covering a large number of Taurus / Sables.

If you are facing the car it is on the left (passenger) side of the valve cover. You won't be able to actually see it. You have to remove a plastic cover (it just unscrews) and then you can pull it right out.

On the right side of the engine, below the intake (in the area of the oil filter). It screws into the side of the block and is pretty hard to find.

It does not have a crank case sensor.

It does not have a crank case sensor.

Assuming a US engine, it's accessed from the passenger side just in front of the throttle body, screwed into the intake manifold with a 1" black hose running to it. It is considered a maintenance item so if it has never been replaced, you should probably just replace it. They are inexpensive, like ten bucks.

It's on the front valve cover. The trick is you have to first remove the "breather chamber" by removing the 2 bolts on top. With the breather chamber cover off, you'll see the PCV valve screwed into the valve cover.

on an SOCH 4 cyl its mounted in the oil separator on the left side of the engine on an DOCH you have to remove the drivers side inner fender well to get to it

Look on the left side of valve cover at rear of cover. One app. 1inch line with a 1/4 inch vacume line loop on it.

In the valve cover.

The pcv valve is located on the right side (passenger side) valve cover. Look towards the back top of the cover you will see the vacume hose going to it, they buried it good.

Air is pulled into the crankcase from the PCV (positive crankcase valve) the fresh air enters through this filter to keep dirt from being sucked into the crankcase. This filter is usually located inside the air filter housing.

recent problem found on a 97' Buick la Sabre 3800 ser II pcv valve was missing. the intake was replaced with a aftermarket upgarde. note a stuck pcv will also cause this problem as well as a vaccume leak in the lower intake gaskets (port to crank case) back to the pcv .. the pcv is located on the passanger side upper pletum (intake) in a twist lock cap with a manifold psi sensor on the top of it. to check the pcv valve remove it and shake it.. ir should rattle if not replace it for that matter for the price replace it any way note the o-ring on the bottom of the pcv valve it dose not come with a new valve match the size and diamiter any o ring will work.

this car came into my shop for what sounded like a serpentine belt squill. but infact what was happing was the engine was under serveir vaccume and was causing the rear main seal to go dry and suck vaccume past the lip seal. dry seal and engine rotation was the noise.. i you out and maby others also..

cowan31@msn.com no spam please only questions

The PCV valve on any Kia with the 1.8 liter DOHC 4 cylinder(Sephia or Spectra) is located in the aluminum valve cover on top of the engine, on the passenger side and facing the firewall. There is a 3/8" i.d. neoprene hose about 5" long connecting the valve to the intake manifold, with a "squeeze type" hose clamp on each end of the hose. Simply squeeze the clamps with a pair of pliers and move them toward the center of the hose, then work the hose off the fitting on the intake manifold and PCV valve. The valve will probably pull out of the engine valve cover along with the hose. Place the new valve in the valve cover, then reattach the hose and move the clamps back to their original position with pliers. CAUTION: The old hose, if it hasn't been replaced before, will be hard and brittle, and may break. Just get a 6" piece of 3/8" neoprene fuel hose at your parts store, cut it to length, and install it on the PCV valve and manifold fitting with the old clamps. You're done!

Behind the engine towards the top, it has two hoses connected, one on top and the other at bottom, I just replaced mine but want to get a metal one and replace the plastic one most auto parts stores sell for about $4.00

It should be under the intake manifold/under the large wiring loom and then under that is a large water hose. It's under there. Takes around 3-4 hours to replace. Nice design on those tune up parts Ford... BTW, while you're under there you might as well also replace the back 3 sparkplugs. On my 2001 Ford Taurus SEL, 24 valve, DOHC engine, the pcv valve is located not where you think it would be. The best way to tell you how to locate it is to follow one of the largest hoses (it's not big...probably 3/4 i.d.) coming out of the throttle body and follow that down to where it mates up to the pcv valve. To help locate the hose, it will be underneath the throttle body and will have a grey hose clamp. The hose will also form an "L". It also turns to a plastic hose too, if that helps. So... rubber "L" hose to plastic hose back to rubber fitting, then the pcv valve. Another description...The pcv valve is on the driver's side of the car, in the top-middle of the engine under a wiring harness and close to the fuel rail. Naturally, Ford put this next to a lower radiator hose entering the engine block too. In all, it's in the worst spot ever for a pcv valve, if you ask me. I hope the engineers saw a good reason for this, because this is definitely not an easy one to access like 95% of all vehicles (usually on top of the valve covers of most cars and you can change in like, 2 minutes at most). To access this, you really need to remove the whole plastic intake and throttle body. Maybe a professional mechanic could do it without doing this, but I'd have to see it to believe it. One more thing I forgot to add. The pcv valve for this is made by Motorcraft (part number EV-243 or part number EV-268) EV-268 has a metal hose wrapped around the part. I was told that on some Ford minivans, the metal tube is for coolant to run through.... I guess to keep the valve cool. Anyway, you won't need this for your Taurus. Simply bend it slightly and pull it off. The valve, you'll notice, has square-like sides. This is to allow you to put a pair of pliers on it to remove the old and insert the new. The part has to be turned about a quarter turn counter-clockwise to remove and the opposite to install. You'll also see that it has a rubber o-ring on it to seal it in the block. You won't be able to reach it well with just your fingers, unless you were to remove the wiring harness and fuel rail. So... simply use a pair of pliers to reach under the wiring harness and grasp the square-sides of the valve and twist it counter-clockwise to remove. I didn't need much pressure at all to remove it, although I read online where one guy's cracked when he did it. He claimed it was in there so long that the piece was seized in the opening. Mine simply twisted out and I twisted the new back in. It is below the egr valve close to the intake manifold below the intake air sensor, there is a tube running to it from the engine to recirculate exhaust air with fresh air, there is a clamp holding it to the air intake that you need pliers to remove, then you need to turn counter-clockwise 90 degrees to remove, do the reverse to install. to make it easier to access remove the upper intake. The pcv valve is not visible, however, you can identify it by the 3" inch rubber hose that connects to the steel line running into the bottom of the intake. I have the part and am going to replace it soon, although Ford really makes it difficult to remove it - I have a Ford Taurus 2000 with DOHC engine

I just changed the passenger headlight bulb on my 2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5. If I can do it, anyone can! First off, replacing the bulb on the passenger side is the easiest because on the driver's side, one must remove the battery first to get to the headlight, I'm told. There is only one bulb. My low beams were out but I still had high beams. This one bulb works for both low and high beams.

Here is how you do this:

1. Unplug the the existing connector (with wires coming out the back of it) from your old light. I marked the top so I could remember how it went back on.

2. Remove the black rubber (waterproof) boot. Super easy to do both of these first two steps.

3. There is a wire retaining spring that is now visible that holds the bulb tightly in place. At first, I had a lot of trouble figuring out how to get this off, so I called my brother who also had a Toyota and he figured it out for me.

(you will notice that one end of this retaining spring goes around a screw and the other end - closest to the passenger door - is caught under a small metal lip that surrounds the outside of where the light bulb piece goes)

You need to push down on the end that that is caught under the small metal lip. You need to push down and slide it out from under the small metal lip that holds it in place. It then swings up and out and is still held in place by that small screw on the other end.

I found this step the hardest of all. Don't give up. It didn't easily slide out from under the metal lip for me, either, but I finally got it to do so.

4. The bad headlight bulb easily comes out. You now see how necessary the spring retaining clip is to hold the bulb steadily in place.

Don't touch the new bulb of your replacement light. I read that oils from your fingers can damage the actual bulb. Put in the new bulb piece exactly how the burned out one was)

5. Swing back the spring retaining clip and push it back down under that metal lip.

6. Replace the Black Rubber boot

7. Plug in the connector plug with wires.

An easy fix! The replacement bulb unit cost me approximately $36 plus tax. I bought it from my local (California) Toyota dealer.

Look at the rubber boot that is behind the light. It says "TOP". That is how it will have to go when you put it back. After removing the boot, the spring clip holds the lamp in place. After replacing the lamp, guide the plug through the boot BEFORE REPLACING THE BOOT BACK ONTO THE HEADLIGHT. This is important as you would fight to get it through and possible bend the new lamp contacts. Also it is easier to put back together.

I just replaced the passenger headlight on a 1997 Toyota 4runner SR5. First caution is that when handling the bulb DO NOT TOUCH the glass part and DO NOT SCRATCH it. The bulb is sensitive to any chemical from the hands and a scratch would cause the glass to shatter when the bulb heats up. Also, there is gas in the bulb so be cautious not to drop it. When you first turn on the light be sure you are not looking over it in case it does shatter. That said the first step is to pull back the rubber boot (notice the "TOP"orientation) and this should loosen the 3 prong receptacle plug attached to the bulb. Once the boot and 3 prong receptacle plug is off the 3 prongs on the bulb are exposed. Next you have to loosen the wire spring and rotate it up off the bulb metal base. Notice the bulb metal base has 3 small prongs that fit into 3 notches on the base of the headlight housing. Once the spring is rotated off you can remove the burned out bulb. Next hold the new bulb by the metal base (caution: do not touch or scratch the glass) in the right orientation to fit the 3 small prongs into the 3 notches. After pushing the metal base of the new bulb into place, put the spring clip back in place. Next put the rubber boot back in place (caution: note proper orientation of the "TOP"). Once the boot is snapped back tightly to the base of the light you can push the 3 prong plug through the back of the rubber boot into the 3 prongs from the bulb. LAST test the new headlight bulb and you will be through. Since the old glass bulb has gas in it be sure dispose of properly.

The PCV valve on the KA24E 4-cylinder is located in front of the oil filter and above the alternator. It points to the rear of the engine. You will need only two tools; a stubby 19mm open end wrench and a pair of pliers to remove the hose clamp. I did it without removing anything else. Just reach around to the right of the oil filter. It took about 15 minutes. Here is a pic:

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/hawaiianhardbody/images/engine/PCVvalve.jpg

THE PCV VALVE FOR A 2001 DODGE DAKOTA IS LOCATED ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE OIL FILLER PORT IF FACING THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. YOU HAVE TO PULL OFF THE VENTILATION HOSE WHICH IS JUST SLID ON, AND THEN YOU HAVE TO TWIST AND PULL THE PCV VALVE TO REMOVE. AT THIS TIME YOU CAN ONLY PURCHASE THE PCV VALVE FROM THE DEALER ( FOR AROUND 7.00 ) DUE TO DODGE HAS NOT RELEASED THESE TO THE PARTS MARKET AS OF YET. ==General Answer== PCV valves generally are located on the valve covers. My MOPAR 3.9l has two PCV valves, one on each valve cover (so check both valve covers as you might indeed have two), which I found ammusing, as my old v8's only had one on the opposite valve cover than the oil fill was on.

Its on the rear of the passenger side valve cover if's it's a V8. Remove the doghouse and you will find the vacuum connection for the PCV on the very rear of the intake plenum. Follow the hose down to the PCV valve.

The PCV valve is attached to the intake by a hose and is located in the valve cover held by a plastic retainer on the passenger side of the engine near the power steering reservoir.

On GM trucks 05 and up with the DBW ( Drive by wire), there is no actual PCV valve. There is a baffle built into the drivers side cylinder head to "help" prevent the throttle body sucking oil into the intake. On pre '05 trucks with DBC (drive by cable) there is a pcv valve built into the rubber hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake.

Obviously 16v. The number in the name is the amount of cylinders, while the "v" is the engine configuration. So 16v is better because it has 2 times as many cylinders.

Usually when the "V" is after the number it refers to the number of valves not cylinders. So a V8 16v could mean an eight cylinder v configuration with 16 valves.

Under hood, center, upper engine area, mounted in intake manifold.I have the same truck. Follow the hose on the left hand side that is on the engine cap that goes to the back of the "carb" disconnect the hose and there it is.. I had the same problem