Electric Windows

my Mazda 1996 b4000 power window relay is located in an auxiliary relay box under the instrument panel next to the steering wheel shaft. The size of the box is about 3x5x2 and it has 8 relays in it.

In Indian, the name Shubham means- auspicious or lucky.

I found a broken wire in the wire bundle that goes from the drivers door to the body of the car. Its covered by a rubber boot.

you can simply pull the fuses ,note your remote door lock will no longer work

Possible causes include failed switch, motor, regulator, broken wire, blown fuse,

I just did my 1995 E-150 passenger side window today. I may be the same as the 94. I first removed the door panel, unplugged the motor then I drilled out the three motor pop-rivets. I tried to remove the motor from the cable/regulator assembly but the cables all unwound and turned to spaghetti. I then removed the two nuts at top and drilled two more rivets from the bottom of the upright regulator. [I had to lower the window to the two access holes to drill out those bottom rivets I also used caution supporting the window because it is heavy and could come crashing down if not duct taped or propped up with wood or something. I then went to the junkyard and paid fifty-five bucks [2009 dollars] for the regulator/motor assembly. I reinstalled with 1/4" bolts that are one inch long and lock-washers and nuts instead of pop-rivets. I plugged it in and it works like a charm. The only thing I might add is that I read that a dimple in the inner door skin might need drilled to access a motor mount fasteners [the dimple is there just for that purpose and it should be easy to figure out]. And that if your motor doesn't come as an assembly with the regulator it should be a lot easier to replace.

Could be a fuse or a relay. I had this happen in my 89 camry. Best thing to do is get the owners manual, and find the right fuse listed or the relay and replace it to see. Go to Advance Auto. They helped me.

The first American car with electric power windows were introduced around 1946 by Lincoln. These are driven by a small electric motor inside the door and have come to be universal in the industry. Prior to that date, in the few vehicles offering this feature, the windows were driven by hydraulics or off the engine vacuum.

Change the breaker under rear seat next to battery. Also check to see if there are broken wires inside the boot between the driver door and car body. The boot can be pulled back off the door and slid a little into the body to see wires and repair if needed.

Hi my had the same problem the window went down and occasionally would go up, when the door panel came off water had corroded the door wiring harness but it was easily and cheaply repaired with a used part .

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Tim should check the repair manual section a little more carefully, they don't have manuals for Mercedes... All of the available manuals, including the Factory Service Manual from Mercedes (2 Cd's) are all but useless.

The factory service manual from Mercedes doesn't give you any information about how the cars come apart... I have worked as a mechanic (Not Mercedes) while I was getting my Mechanical Engineering degree... They are nice cars, but they are unique in many respects. They do not come apart like most other cars on the planet. The door panels do not snap in as every other car in the world does... You have to lift the door panel up to release it... What you have to do first in order to lift up the door panel varies...

Mercedes typically likes to have no visible fasteners if it is at all possible, so figuring out how to get the door panel off without damaging it may be no simple task.

I have seen responses on the net stating "Remove the two screws holding the armrest"

Please... I haven't ever seen a Mercedes with screws through the armrest... I've only owned a couple, but neither one had any visible screws in the interior of the car... Not one visible screw. The only fasteners visible from the inside of the car were the heads of the bolts holding the door to the frame.

Tim should stick to giving advice to people working on their Chevy or their Toyota... Those cars are simple to work on.

Pull off door panel. Roll window half way down. Un-bolt window. There should be four bolts on the door panel that hold the motor. Take the arm off the left on driver side or right on passenger. Then motor should just slide out of the hole.

it's a complete kit. You can get one at a Junk Yard or from auto parts.

That is on the inside of each door, behind the door panel and that is what makes the windows go up and down.

Call your local "You Pull It " junk yard. They will have two prices. One if you take it off the vehicle and one if they already have one that's been pulled off by their laborer.

check your users manual >> maintenace >> DIAGRAM of both under-driver Fuse Panel and under-hood power relay. Lists location and type needed. i bought a set (1 of each) and keep on hand in toolbox in back... hey its a jeep - always good to have the parts around

Power windows have circuit breakers. It is a rare case that one would go bad.

The cables cannot be replaced alone. There is a power window regulator, which is the center track, cables, and spool for the cables. This part can cost from $50 to $180. The best thing to do would be to pay some one to install it for you. Unless you are very patient and have small enough hands, it will be extremely difficult. The dealership will charge about $450 for the parts, labor, and taxes. Not a fun thing to go through :(

1. Remove the door Pull-handle cover, by inserting a screwdriver into the access hole on the bottom of the handle, and using the screwdriver as a lever, pop off the handle cover.

2. Remove the button covering a retaining screw in the interior door latch backing plate.

3. Remove the 8 Torx� retaining screws around the perimeter of the door panel, and the single Torx� retaining screw in the interior door latch.

4. Remove the 2 hex bolts in the door handle.

5. Gently lift the panel upwards, to disengage the window weather-strip molding.

6. Remove the Door Latch Trim Panel, be sure to unplug the Power Lock Switch, and remember how the wire was run.

7. Remove the interior door latch, by gently pulling out on the front corner, which is held in by a plastic compression spring.

autozone.com has online manuals that give step by step how to There are two screws hidden behind the removable rubber caps on interior pull strap. There is a screw hidden behind plastic guard behind interior handle (pry plastic guard out where the indentation is for small flathead screwdriver or pick). There are two more screws, one next to red reflector and one at the bottom of the trim panel. After all screws are removed gently pry the door lock/window control panel up and out. Pull door panel up and out. Disconnect remaining molex connectors. And reverse to reinstall. You may have to drill out rivets and replace with small bolts and nuts. Its a difficult enough repair to pay someone else to do it in my opinion.

I'm not sure if this will help but heres what I have on power windows. lower window to down position(if you can) remove door panel remove window weatherstripping remove black window surrond(should be a screw on top of surrond towards back edge) then stationary window should unbolt then remove pins that hold operator to track pick up and pull out the operating window

Check the lock switch on the driver door. Check all fuses. Otherwise refer to the service manual for troubleshooting an replacement procedures: http://www.torrentdownloads.net/torrent/367949 or search for Honda+S2000+(00-03)+Service+Manual+pdf

your heater coil is leaking.replace it