Electric Windows

duct tape visqueen

Auto-Zone or O-Riley's auto-shop.

My MB E430 had same issue with all four windows after battery was temporarily disconnected to resolve another issue. After checking fuses and determining none were blown, I investigated and learned that the power windows on a MB need to be re-sync'd after power interruption.

I would recomend getting a chiltons manual from your local auto parts store, so you will know the exact location of the door panel retainer clips, and screw locations, even the best mechanic will end up breaking a clip he didn't know was there. I would also highly recommened buying a (trim puller) from your parts store it should only cost a couple bucks and it will remove the plastic clips without breaking them as a screwdriver most likely would. In case the guy at the parts store is an idot, the trim puller or trim remover is usully found around where they sell screwdrivers and wrenches. It looks like a tiny spatula with a gove cut in the middle, the thin flat spatula slide under the door panel and the grove squeezes the two release tabs on the side of the door panel clips.

I have a 2000 and have the same issue. Could be a couple things:

1 - the window motor and regulator no longer function properly (good chance just replace them and you will be fine)

2 - it is off track and may just need a slight nudge and some wd40

3 - your "scissors" and gears are worn down and bent and need the whole things to be replaced (hopefully not it)

The first step involves removing compleletely the door panel. Running the lower half and bottom are screws covered by approximelty one inch plates that pop off. Also screws in the arm reset and plate of the door handle must be removed. After removing all the screws holding the panel and poping the panel loose, it is puched upward and toward the rear of the vehicle. The entire window regulator is replaced as a unit. as simple as this piece looks it will cost over $100.00 dolars. The existing regulator is held in place by three hexhead bolts/screws attacged to the door and two hexhead attached to the lower porpotion of the window. After removing the screws, work the regulator out through the upper rear hole just below the door lock. The new regulator is replaced through the same hole. Be aware that it takes some time and patience to get the regulatlors in and out of the opening. IPY in Fresno

If you go to the kia home page and log on to kia owners, gop to service inforamtion and then to the shop and put the info of what your looking for in the search box and it should pull up all kinds of inforamtion for you! hope this helps

Since there's not enough info for a specific answer, here's the first thing to check.

You say windows, meaning more than 1 not working - if none are working that would be the fuse for that whole window circuit. Check the fuse box in the driver area, and the fuse box in the engine compartment.

That's the first check - because you really don't just "fix" them without knowing what's wrong with them.

window motor

Your cheapest repair is to replace the entire antenna unit with a new one. There are many aftermarket units that will work on this car. An OEM unit will be very expensive. Check with your local Auto Parts Stores. You could also look in a Salvage Yard for a used unit.

Replace the regulator (most likely problem). Make sure you check the small plastic gear that moves to push the window up or even with a egulator change the window will go up crooked.

my Mazda 1996 b4000 power window relay is located in an auxiliary relay box under the instrument panel next to the steering wheel shaft. The size of the box is about 3x5x2 and it has 8 relays in it.

In Indian, the name Shubham means- auspicious or lucky.

I found a broken wire in the wire bundle that goes from the drivers door to the body of the car. Its covered by a rubber boot.

you can simply pull the fuses ,note your remote door lock will no longer work

Possible causes include failed switch, motor, regulator, broken wire, blown fuse,

I just did my 1995 E-150 passenger side window today. I may be the same as the 94. I first removed the door panel, unplugged the motor then I drilled out the three motor pop-rivets. I tried to remove the motor from the cable/regulator assembly but the cables all unwound and turned to spaghetti. I then removed the two nuts at top and drilled two more rivets from the bottom of the upright regulator. [I had to lower the window to the two access holes to drill out those bottom rivets I also used caution supporting the window because it is heavy and could come crashing down if not duct taped or propped up with wood or something. I then went to the junkyard and paid fifty-five bucks [2009 dollars] for the regulator/motor assembly. I reinstalled with 1/4" bolts that are one inch long and lock-washers and nuts instead of pop-rivets. I plugged it in and it works like a charm. The only thing I might add is that I read that a dimple in the inner door skin might need drilled to access a motor mount fasteners [the dimple is there just for that purpose and it should be easy to figure out]. And that if your motor doesn't come as an assembly with the regulator it should be a lot easier to replace.

Could be a fuse or a relay. I had this happen in my 89 camry. Best thing to do is get the owners manual, and find the right fuse listed or the relay and replace it to see. Go to Advance Auto. They helped me.

The first American car with electric power windows were introduced around 1946 by Lincoln. These are driven by a small electric motor inside the door and have come to be universal in the industry. Prior to that date, in the few vehicles offering this feature, the windows were driven by hydraulics or off the engine vacuum.

Change the breaker under rear seat next to battery. Also check to see if there are broken wires inside the boot between the driver door and car body. The boot can be pulled back off the door and slid a little into the body to see wires and repair if needed.

Hi my had the same problem the window went down and occasionally would go up, when the door panel came off water had corroded the door wiring harness but it was easily and cheaply repaired with a used part .

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Tim should check the repair manual section a little more carefully, they don't have manuals for Mercedes... All of the available manuals, including the Factory Service Manual from Mercedes (2 Cd's) are all but useless.

The factory service manual from Mercedes doesn't give you any information about how the cars come apart... I have worked as a mechanic (Not Mercedes) while I was getting my Mechanical Engineering degree... They are nice cars, but they are unique in many respects. They do not come apart like most other cars on the planet. The door panels do not snap in as every other car in the world does... You have to lift the door panel up to release it... What you have to do first in order to lift up the door panel varies...

Mercedes typically likes to have no visible fasteners if it is at all possible, so figuring out how to get the door panel off without damaging it may be no simple task.

I have seen responses on the net stating "Remove the two screws holding the armrest"

Please... I haven't ever seen a Mercedes with screws through the armrest... I've only owned a couple, but neither one had any visible screws in the interior of the car... Not one visible screw. The only fasteners visible from the inside of the car were the heads of the bolts holding the door to the frame.

Tim should stick to giving advice to people working on their Chevy or their Toyota... Those cars are simple to work on.

Pull off door panel. Roll window half way down. Un-bolt window. There should be four bolts on the door panel that hold the motor. Take the arm off the left on driver side or right on passenger. Then motor should just slide out of the hole.