Electric Windows

The only way to do it it to either: 1. Go to a Junk Yard and try to find one --- or 2. Buy the complete Kit from a dealer (Cost About $65) The 95 Marquis uses cables where other models used a cross cross beam system. I had to replace all 4 window cables on my 95 marquis. Trying to rewind the spool is a complete waste of time. Oh, by the way. The cable system is Pop Riveted - so you're gonna need a Rivet Gun and very small hands. Hope this helps.

the window motor might be bad or there is not of power in your cords to power it

If all do not work - check fuse in power distribution block under hood

Harmonic balancer replace

... what about them..?

What's the problem with the window?

CURRENTLY I AMIN THE PROCESS OF PERFORMING THIS TASK. THE MOST DIFFICULT POORTION WAS TO ACTUALLY REMOVE THE DOOR PANEL WHICH HAS MULTIPLE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS. THERE ARE ALSO ANCHOR PANEL PLASTIC CLIPS AT EACH END OF THE PANEL ABOUT HALF WAY UP. OF COURSE THE LOCK KNOB AND INTERIOR DOOR OPENING MECHANISM SHOULD BE REMOVED. A LITTLE TRICK IS TO PROPERLY FIT THE PHILLIP HEAD TO THE SCREW AS MANY STYLES OF PHILLIPS HEADS ARE AVAILABLE . A LITTLE WD-40 AND A LIGHT TAP FROM A HAMMER HELPS TO SEAT THE SREW AND HEADS. THE PANEL IS PULLED OUT FROM THE BOTTOM ABOUT 3 INCHES TO REVEAL THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS BEHIND THE PANEL. THERE ARE KNOBS HOLDING THE CONNECTORS TO THE SWITCHES. TURN AND PULL AT THE SAME TIME. THEN GENTLY PRY THE CONNECTOR AT DIFFERENT ANGLES AWAY FROM THE SWITCHES. AFTER THAT TE PANEL NEEDS TO BE PULLED AND JIGGLED UP AT THE SAME TIME PAYING ATTENTION THAT NOTHIN IS STILL CONNECTED . THERE ARE ALSO TAR PAPER SHIELDS THAT NEED TO BE SAVED. ONCE YOU HAVE THWE PANEL AND INTERIOR DEW WIPE STRIP OFF A WEDGE NEEDS TO BE FASHIONED OF THE USE OF A RUBBER TYPE DOOR STOP AT EACH END OF THE WINDOW WILL HOLD IT IN WORKING POSITION. AT THIS TIME A SMALL MIRROR WILL HELP IN LOCATING THE REGULATOR ANCHORS AND INSIDE TRACK RAIL ANCHORS WHICH ALSO HAVE TO BE REMOVED. I TOOKE THE MOTOR OFF THE REGULATOR INSIDE THE DOOR WHICH INVOLVED THE REMOVAL OF JUST THE ANCHOR SCREWS AND HARNESS CONNECTOR. CAUTION; WINDOW REGULATORS ARE SPING LOADED . HINT WEAR LEATHER WORK GLOVES TO AVOID INJURY. AFTER REMOVING THE MOTOR THE REGULATOR SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CHECKED FOR FUNCTION AND WEAR. TO RMOVE THE REGULATOR SLIVE IT FORWARD AND BACK AT THE HALFWAY POSITION OF TRAVEL THIS CAN BE ESTABLISHED BY THE USE OF MINI-TYPE VISEGRIPS AND OR WIRE TIES (SIP STRIPS). INSTALLATION IS IN REVEARSE OF THIS ORDER. GOOD LUCK AND MAY YOU HAVE NO SKINED KNUCKLES. DOORS AND REGULATORS ARE STAMPED UNITS WITH SHARP EDGES. APEAIO12

something is jamming the track

This information applies to installing a window lift on a 1997 Toyota Camry XLE on th driver's side, left front. The information should be applicable to other window lifts on late 1990's Camrys. There is a shortcut that I used which allowed me to replace the window lift without having to remove the window glass and regulator, but it takes some patience but it is worth it because it will save you time and aggravation.First, remove the handle bezel. Using a small srew driver,,, pry open the screw cover. Remove the screw. Next, tape the end of a large screw driver and pry off the bezel first at the top left side, and then at the bottom left side. Have a helper hold the bezel under pressure while you gently pry both corners. The bezel will pop out. Next, using a screw driver, go around the door trim and remove the two or three screw caps, and then remove the screws and any uncovered screws around the side and bottom and on the arm rest. If you want to remove the switch panel, you can gently pry it out with a taped screwdriver. Next, take a plastic putty knife and work around the edges of the door trim and gently pry up around the edges, popping out the plastic fasteners. Once the trim is loose on the two sides and bottom, pull the trim upward and lift it free. Gently pull back the plastic cover without tearing the plastic. Now remove the metal service hole cover. Now, here is a tip to save some time. Intead of removing the glass and side frames,, you can save some time by reaching thru the access hole on the right side to reach the motor on the regulator. You will need a small ratchet style screwdriver with a size 8-10 straight screw driver edge. You can purchase one at Sears for $10. There are three screw holding the motor to its frame. You can use a small mirror to locate these screws. Remove these screws. Be patient. It goes easily with a little patience and a ratchet screwdriver. The motor will now feel loose, but do not force it out. Next, there are three bolts which you need to remove which are visible on the door which will allow you to get more free play to free the motor. A 10mm wrench will fit these bolts take them out. These bolts are easily visible and are used to attach the frame which holds the motor snug in its place. Take these three bolts out,,, and the motor will now be free and you can pivot it right out the access hole on the right. Disconnect the wire harness and the motor is free. A replacement motor will cost new between $55 and $80.

I had a similar problem with my 98 Voyager. My digital odometer, all guages and powere locks went out. It turned out in MY case it was one of the wonderfull computers. It controlled most of the driver comfort features. Again, im MY case it was in the process of failing and only a matter of time before I'd lose headlights and everything else excluding the engine running. It cost about $800 for replacement. I HOPE this isn't the cse for and I wish you luck. Dave I have lost all the display readings (speedometer, odometer, fuel, temperature, warning lamps) but NOT the power locks. A reset (unplug and reconnect) of the wiring harness to the instrument panel has solved the problem. I guessed that it is the ground connection which is located behind the instrument panel and the air ducts on the driver side and the movement of the wiring harness was enough to restore the connection. Additionally... Just like above, I also lost all the display readings (speedometer, odometer, fuel, temperature) on my 1989 Town and Country. The power locks were working, but the vehicle would not start. The wiring harness mentioned above is just behind the headlight switch (driver side, near the air duct) with a white connector. It took about 20 minutes to remove all the paneling and 2 seconds to unplug and plug the harness back in. You must approach the connector from the top and use the metal release clip. I have little to no mechanical skills and was able to accomplish this easy fix. Thanks for the help! Mike

First check to see that other items are not on the same curcuit as the window in question and that they are/are not working properly. Next open door panel and make sure window motor is still operational. Replace fuse with door panel open and see what's up when you try to lower/raise window. Is the motor in need of lube? Is window regulator and its components well greased? I have had this same problem and it was due to the motor stopping at a dead point in its tracks. Tapped motor slightly with the end of a screwdriver and motor worked. Greased all of the above and closed door panel. Problem has not resurfaced(1991 240DL wagon).

if anything isn't working like guages, dash lights etc... its probably the body control module

hello. are you sure that your window motor is bad? the reason i ask is because there have been a lot of problems with the window switches on the door panels esp the drivers side and for some reason these switches don't seem to last very long. if you don't know for a fact that the motor is bad please let me know and I'll tell you how to find out using a very simple procedure. also, not saying it can't happen, but for a 2004 model i find it hard to believe that your window motor has already gone out. so before you go to the trouble to replace that motor (it is mounted by rivets internally to your door frame) and you do know that it is the motor, just simply take a drill and drill out the two weld marks to the left of the screw you can see through the hole. they should be 8 mm (tape window up first with duct tape) then the motor will fall out. pull it to the left and out the big hole in the rear of door replace test switch before reassembly diffrent connectors do diffrent things.

on 072311

I have had to replace the window lift assemblies on BOTH doors of my 2004 F150. The lift assembly is a complex system of pulleys, cables, slide guides and of course a motor. In my case and probably very common, the pulley at the motor that winds up the cable is plastic and wears and then the cable gets jammed. This is much more likely than a motor problem. In any event, the assembly is not repairable and sold as a complete unit. The assemble is easy to replace, but only after you very carefully dissasemble the door. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS unless you have the Ford workshop manual, and you are very good at following directions. If you do not follow the exact order you will wind up taking the vehicle to the dealer. The most difficult part of the procedure is securing the (very heavy) window in the full closed position after loosening the holddown screws. Lots of duct tape required even though it takes a lot of paint thinner to remove the adhesive! Note to buy the assembly to match the VIN number.

The relay should be under the hood in the fuse box. Not sure which one turn the lid over it should have a diagram.

Replace the switch.

Both the rear windows on my 92 Caprice came off the tracks if you tried to lower them. This was apparently a design defect in this model as I know of many others that did the exact same thing. You have to remove the door panel to do this which is a royal pain in the butt. I practiced on a junkyard car to learn how but it is not something I can explain easily. MY rule with those model Caprice cars is NEVER to lower the rear windows. vbdenny

take it to a glass shop, it requires special glue.

If they are BOTH not working, it IS LIKELY A fuse, especially if they both quit at the same time, I do not know where the fuse is, But, look on both corners of the dash, on the edges where the door covers when it is shut, look under dash directly above your feet on drivers and passenger side, look inside glove box there could be A access panel inside, Wherever it is it will likely be covered by A semi-flat piece of plastic that pulls off, The fuse will be abreviated,pwr acc,seat,psw,psa,prst,pwst,pwrs, As you can tell it will likely have A (P) in it. Good luck, Jamison

Reading through my Haynes repair manual. It seems theres a circuit breaker (NO FUSE) for power windows/locks. My manual said its right next to the fuses, but I cant find it myself, thus im looking for a answer on this forum

to remove the window motor you have to drill out the rivets and replace them with a standard screw and nut and making sure that the screw is not to long.

Buy and replace it. depending on how bad it is i would just replace it, those motors are not trustworthy most of the time, so just buy a brand new one and install it, saves the worry of it not working agian.

Depending on the age of the Mountaineer, they all come with power windows now. The driver has control of all 4 windows and can also lock them so other passengers cannot roll up or down their window.

Yes, it has power windows, which go out repeatedly. I've spent $900 now repairing those stupid windows three times since I bought my car in 2000.

Some of the switches just pry out of the door and you simply plug on another switch. Good luck

Remove the door panel/handle/surround

Roll the window down if possible

Remove the trim strips - inside & out -CAREFULLY - they just pop off the top of the door but it is scary at first

Loosen the two screws inside the channel on the regulator holding the window to the regulator - they will probably be quite tight

Rotate the glass and remove it from the door square end - back - first

Reverse the procedure to re-install and be sure you pay attention to where everything goes.

Good luck