Electric Windows

Uh, with a screwdriver?

Get a chiltons repair manual from the library for your car.

a lot of work !, seriously you have to take all the parts off front of engine to get to timing belt,the timing marks are there once you get to them.the harmonic ballancer hides the lower marks,so guess what you have to remove it to aline them ALL up.

The base timing is autoamtic once you defeat the computer to go to base timing.But if you get the timing marks ALL right from the belt there is almost no adjustment needed. And you will need a computer to adjust base timing.Not mechanical.

P!S! when checking the timing on a kia sportage you should know that the sheer pin on the crankshaft pulley tends to go allowing the pulley to move so it 'looks' like its in time meaning the marks all line up and you can't tell without pulling off the lower(crankshaft) pulley, it is always a good idea to locate #1 spark plug take it out and drop a longgg screwdriver as you manually turn the timing belt whilst looking for the marks as that cylinder should be up as far as it can go with all the marks lined up for it to be in time if it starts going back down or doesn't quite get as far up as it should go with the marks lined up.. then its not in time and should definatley take off the crankshaft pulley to take a look at that sheer pin and the damamge it did...

I would suspect the switch. I had a 1992 Transport (little brother to Silhouette) with exactly the same problem, I have the Hayes repair manual with schematics, and was eventually able to trace it to a broken (open circuit) tan wire from the rhs switch back to the drivers door. I never did find the break or bad connection, but was able to drive the window up by touching a ground wire to the tan wire terminal on the back of rhs switch. You can NOT leave the ground on or the drivers switch will short the +12v to ground and blow it. If you want more info, email me rob@syn.ca

Plastic thing that attaches window glass to the window motor might be broken.

If you are moderately handy and careful, this is a reasonable DIY project.

The biggest challenge is removing the interior door panel without damage. It is fastened around the outside edge - sides and bottom - by plastic clips. It is fastened through the middle by various screws. Once these are all removed or undone, the panel lifts up, out of brackets that hold it at the top.

Remove the screws first. There is a little trim piece at the back of the door handle inset that you can pop out with a small screwdrive, and an Philips head screw behind that. There is another philps screw in the middle of the door below the armrest. This actually stays in the panel, but you need to unscrew it. There is also one in the middle of a round rubber bumper near the top outer corner of the door.

Definitely get a tool from your local auto parts store that is made for sliding under panels and gently removing clips. I happen to have an AmPro tool I purchased at a local auto parts store. Without this, it is very easy to have them pull through the door panel or break, both things you want to avoid. There are two clips along the bottom, and two on each side.

Once you think you have these all removed, the panel should lift straight up and off. If not, you probably missed something. Go back and check, do not force it.

A helper is handy here, since you now will need to remove the wires and cables holding the panel close to the door. The door handle and cable is one. There is a flat aluminum clip at one end of the latch assembly on the back of the panel. Remove the single screw in the middle and voila, the handle assembly is now detached. There is a wire harness plug into the bottom of the window power switch, and into the door light at the outer end of the panel. Each of these need squeezing from the sides of the connectors to pull them out. The ash tray also needs to be removed. Open it, and use a screwdriver to press down on the rod that goes from side to side at the top. It should be obvious once you see it, it is what holds the tray in place. This then lets that assembly come out.

Now remove the speaker (4 screws and a squeeze connector for the wires), and the speaker enclosure (4 screws).

Now you will be faced with wires - held to the panel by clips, some trim pieces on the upper corners of the door (each with a small white clip). Use that tool again and gently remove any clips that are still into the door.

Call your helper again, to assist in removing the plastic barrier that is no longer held in by any clips, but on really gooey stuf along the edge of the door. I used a razor knife as I pulled it away, to keep it from stretching in long strings and really making a mess. Definitely helps to have someone who can hold this up as you are removing it.

Now you should have reasonable access - albeit tight - to the regulator and motor. Still that gooey stuff around the door, try to keep it off of you, wires, and other parts.

The motor and cable coil assembly is held in place by 4 bolts (metrics) that are in keyhole sockets. This is very obvious, it is to the upper inside of the door. You can loosen the bolts, and slide it up and out. The other part - the track and slide for the windor - is straight up and down, smack in the middle of the door. As I recall, it has two bolts at the top and two at the bottom. Also a bracket that the bottom of the window sits in. Before you remove this, attached the window in some way so it does not slide down and in your way. An old rag or paper towels over the top of the door frame, and duct tape around that and on each side of the window should do the trick.

Oh, and there is a squeeze connector where this is wired in the center of the door, too.

Assembly is just the reverse of all this.

You can get a new regulator assembly and motor from Auto Parts Warehouse for about $90.

I have not been able to locate a source for replacement clips. Very easy to damage the ones that hold the wires in place, so if these do not snug up during reassembly, consider some silicone caulk to hold them in place to prevent rattles. Make sure this caulk fastens them to the door and not just the flexible plastic sheeting.

Definitely a lot of labor involved, give yourself plenty of time and don't rush.

Oh, and if you need to drive the car before you get it fixed and want to keep the window up, you can use a wire tie around the slide mechanism and through existing holes in the door to keep the window in place. This is at the upper part of the door, so you need to remove the panel completely but might be able to cheat and not remove all the plastic sheet. This is also something to consider if you don't want to invest in a new regulator, but just want to make sure the window doesn't come down by itself.

Ive been looking for a fuse number for a peugeot 406 year 2000, Its the driver side window, but the book gives me one that isn't in the car. Also every site Ive looked at they all seem to be differant. Please can you help. Yours Hopefully Yan Gauld.

What type of battery for bmw 525 tds m51 e34?

Before trying any repair on the window, check the fuse and make sure it is not blown. If it is, replace it. Make sure the wires leading to the fuse box and all tightly in place. If this doesn't fix the problem, check the window control switch. If it is dirty, clean it and see if the window works. If not, remove the switch and set aside. Remove the access panels on the door. Use an automotive test light to check all of the electrical wiring in the door. Tape the window in place to prevent it slipping. Replace the window motor and the window regulator. Remove tape and make sure window works.

It could be the motor, but it also could be the switch, or the wiring. Start buy taking the switch panal out of the door with the wires connected. Test the wires to see if the switch is supplying power out the back, and into the wires, when the switch is pressed. If it isnt, then its the switch, if it is, then you can narrow it down even further by testing the connection at the motor. If power is making it to the motor, than the wiring is good, and the motor could be bad.

Dont forget to always check your fuses for anything electricly related.

This happened in my 98 Riviera. My friend took the switch apart, and cleaned the tiny contacts. Over time, they get a black dust on them and it doesn't work. He said it would last 3 or 4 months, and when it did it again, to replace the switch. I have since replaced the switch.

remove the door panel then remove the switch which is secured at one closest to the front end by a Philips screw into a gold retainer

My 94 Accord drivers side window has done pretty much the same the thing - altho' mine completely dropped out of the cradle and I almost lost it inside the door. What has probably happened to your window is the same as mine - over time and use the cradle supporting the glass loses its grip on the glass. The glass becomes progressively more loose until it traps against the door. I temporarily fixed mine by pulling the glass out completely, taking the motor down to a low setting - one where the window would be perhaps a third of the way up. I then slid the window back into its cradle and the window wound up again. However, the glass is still rocking about a little and not fitting snugly and I know that I'll have to replace the motor / cradle for a more permanent solution. This is what you'll have to do too. But I recommend removing the door trim to have a look insde to see what exactly is going on before you spend the money on a new window motor.

C.

My '97 two door had a similar problem. It turns out the issue is that in the two door there is a cable system that is attached to a runner that goes along the middle of the door. for me the cable that would otherwise lift the window was starting to come apart. The fragments of the cable became stuck in a plastic runner that the cable slides through. At that point the cable was completely jammed and I had to replace the entire mechanism which wasn't very difficult. Just make sure that if you do relplace the system you center it properly or you may find that the window will still have a difficult time going up.

If you put the switch in the up position and you do not hear the motor, then your switch is bad... I had the same problem in my 94 honda.. I solved my problem by cleaning out the switch controller and rocking it from side to side, so far it still working. In your case REPLACE THE SWITCH CONTROLLER or unless for the time being hold to switch either to the right or left while pushing up on the switch or pushing down or pulling up on the switch while pushing up on the switch. On the other hand if you hear the motor, chances are the cable that pulls the window up does not work all the way, so then you will have to replace the whole window regulator enjoy...

This is a common Honda Accord issue (my 91 and 96 both needed new window motors). I've since prevented it by regularly lubing the window grooves with WD40 (use the little red straw, squirt it in, move up and down--do this especially with your driver side window which you use the most). I do it every few months, have never had any more problems. This was at my Honda mechanic's urging, he's seen a lot of this. Things get a little tight or strained there, and it makes the window motor work too hard. Hondas last forever; little parts like window motors do not!

I had the same issue. And motor was not clicking or making any sound. So the switch had some issue I figured after reading this blog. I opened the switch and found that the contact points were burned out and lot of carbon had accumulated. Plus due to the heat of the sparks the plastic around the contact points had melted and raised up, so it would prevent the contact points to get in touch. So I had to brush off the burned plastic too. Thanks. Its fixed and working now.

There is no circuit breaker. CHeck your fuse box relay (passenger side next to glve compartment)make sure no fuses are blown. Each window has its own relay circuit module. If one of the windows will not roll down or up, simply remove the relay (switch) and replace it. for starters, remove the door panel from driver side and passenger side. remove one of the (switches) that rolls the window up and down, and swap them out. that will test to see it its faulty or not. best thing to do is go to autozone or parts house and order it..they are cheap

You don't.

whats it do. if it blows out cold on the passenger side and HEAT not just warm but f*cking hot its probly the vent door arm has fallen off or the motor is not moving. pull the lover black cover off on the passanger side. a about 3 or4 feet long and quit a few screws but easy to do. look on the right side of the vent ducts you will see an arm and rod. see if its still hooked on and it moves when you change the temp from 60 to 90. sometimes it take 30 sec or so befor it starts moving. if it wont move then its not good. a new climate control programer. aka big computer box under the dash that contols the entier thing with driver comands from the dash display . is not cheap just take the rod from the vent and put it where you need it. in sumer time push it all the way in. in winter though your gona need heat on your side to so you will have to pull it back out.

Well, after removing the door panel and disconnecting all of the necessary parts(please be careful in doing this, some of the parts will break quite easily), look toward the inside front of the door (near the hinged area) - there's a track located there that extends all the way up to the top of the door and this is probably the reason your window keeps coming off track( this was the case with mine) - There's a bolt that holds the track in place. Loosen it a little to get the window back into the track. Put the window back into the track but make sure that the rubber guide on the upper and lower part of the door remains around the windows edge, re-tighten the bolt and then reconnect the window controls to test it. It should flow up and down as if new. .

After seeing this question asked a dozen times, and halfway answered a few times, I decided to put together a comprehensive 'how-to' for this common defect.

I have replaced every window regulator in my 1996 grand marquis at least once, the driver door 3 times. I can do it in the dark. Don't do any of this until you are sure you need a new regulator assembly. If you can slide the glass up and down a good bit by hand, you probably need this. If the window works OK but gets jammed or cock-eyed during up/down motion, you have a different problem. If the window motor doesn't do anything at all, check that first.

New replacement regulators can be found for about $30 delivered on eBay, they are superior to the OEM part.

First you need to understand that it could be either the regulator OR the motor causing your problem ...even if you hear the motor turning and trying to raise the glass it could still be a bad motor (actually bad nylon gears within the motor assembly.)

Step one is to remove the door panel and speaker:

-Pry out the 'cup' behind your door opening handle.

-Gently remove the window switch panel. It should pop up and out, then disconnect all those wires.

-Remove the screw you just revealed that goes into the door frame.

-Remove screws on both ends of the pull handle (behind molded rubber plugs)

-Remove the screw hidden in a tunnel at the bottom of the door.

-Lift the door panel straight up (slide it up along the door.) It should pop up about an inch or so without much effort, if not look for hidden screws.

-Pivot the bottom of the door panel out a few inches, then lift up a little more to remove it. Disconnect any remaining wire harnesses.

-Carefully set door panel aside.

-Door speaker is mounted to a molded plastic housing, like a spacer. There should be three screws securing the housing to the door, remove these screws and remove the speaker (don't forget to disconnect it.)

-Carefully (and I mean carefully) start at the bottom and peel back the plastic sheet covering the door. You'll glue or tape this back into place so don't tear it up. Don't completely remove it, leave the top glued to the door, you'll thank me later. I just roll it up and tape it back.

After you get the door panel and speaker mounting off take a good look at what's going on in there. The regulator is basically a metal track that runs from top to bottom with a cross plate that slides up and down on cables and holds the glass. The motor itself is remotely mounted and connected by cables.

The motor is attached to the regulator by nothing more than cables. The motor is mounted to the inner door skin (three Torx screws that go through the door skin, through the motor assembly, and thread into the nylon cable housing.) These screws not only hold the motor assembly to the door, they also hold the motor assembly to the regulator. Don't grind off the rivets in that vicinity, you don't need to. Just pull the three Torx screws and have a hand ready to catch the motor assembly inside the door. Carefully slide the motor assembly from the regulator housing and take it out. Before going any further, test your motor. If you can twist it by hand, it's bad. Reconnect it's wires and press the window button. If it seems to work and sound good then you can reuse the motor. If you question it at all, replace it. The $ spent is worth avoiding this hassle a second time.

There are two rivets (yes, rivets) that secure the glass to the regulator, perhaps the most idiotic thing Ford has ever done. There is only a very small window of opportunity to get access to these, the window has to be in just the right place to line both of these rivets up with their access holes (for removal AND installation.) You may have to manually pull the window to the right position. If the regulator is adequately screwed up, the cables could be bound and make moving the window impossible. May have to cut the cables. Whatever you have to do, get the holes lined up for access. Pop the heads off these rivets without breaking the glass, this is a trick. I use a large high-speed metal drill bit to get the head off, just drill dead center until it comes off. If the drill even kisses the glass, it shatters. Good luck with that. Once the glass is detached from the regulator, lift it out by pivoting it forward, then sliding it out from outside the door. I don't know how better to describe that, just figure it out. Set it safely aside.

The regulator assembly is held on by two rivets at the bottom and two nuts at the top. At the top of the door is a metal bar, like a grab handle but sharp and ugly. Behind it are two holes and in each hole is a nut that holds the top of the regulator in place. Remove those two nuts and set them aside. Remove the two rivets holding the bottom of the regulator in place, then you should be able to wiggle the regulator assembly out through the large access hole.

Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal.

-*Advised* lubricate the window channels while the glass is out. WD-40 doesn't work, grease doesn't either. I found that stuff like Pledge or Orange Oil works good if you can get enough in the channel.

-Remove all debris (rivet pieces and whatever) from the door cavity or rattles will drive you nuts later.

-Put the regulator in, loosely attach top nuts.

-Pop new rivets into lower mounting points, use bolt/nut if you don't have a rivet gun (about $9 you tightwad.)

-Install motor assembly (those three torx screws) and connect it's power source. Make sure it goes up/down as expected by plugging the switch panel back in and testing. Run the regulator to it's lowest position for installing the glass.

-Carefully slide glass back into door frame. Make sure glass is in track both front and rear. Notice the angle cut in the glass at the back bottom? That's to help pivot it into place... Slide glass to fully raised position and tape it in place or have someone strong enough hold it up. Then carefully move regulator into proper position that gives you access to mount the window.

-Reattach glass to regulator (I always use bolts with nylock nuts and thick nylon washers instead of more rivets.)

-Tighten top two nuts, make sure regulator assembly is very secure.

-Run window up and down, make sure it moves freely ...adjust if not.

-Reattach the plastic sheet that was rolled up earlier, use spray adhesive or duct tape. Looks don't matter, you won't see it but you WILL feel the hot/cold air if you don't get this plastic sheet back on good.

-Replace the speaker housing, reconnect wires.

-When putting the door panel back on the tricky part is the lock that sticks up and out the top. It's tough to line up. I found it easiest to unscrew the pretty chrome cap and shove a length of small I.D. scrap hose over the threaded stud. Then I can use the hose to pull the lock up through the hole as I set the door panel on.

-Start with the top of the door panel, make sure it is in it's groove at the top and the lock is through it's hole, then let it pivot down against the door. Once this looks good, gently lift up on the bottom of the door (sliding it up against the door) until you can engage the other 'hooks' and settle the door panel back to the right place. Make sure it all looks right, may have a hook not engaged.

-Reconnect wiring, test again. If you connected the wrong connectors together, some things won't work. Color coordinated?

-Replace removed screws & trim panels

...now go spend that $150 you just saved on something more fun.

remove the trim that holds the window in, on the side of window frame there should be a plate, behind this is the counter weight,

To reset electric windows on a Peugeot 307, just disconnect the battery for a while. Following the battery disconnect, neither of the electric windows will operate.

Press and hold the button to put the window the whole way down. Release then hold down for 5 seconds. Pull and hold the button to bring the window the whole way up. Release then pull up for 5 seconds. Your windows should now be reset and can be controlled from the drivers window controls.

Fuses for the 2002 Taurus are located under the driver's side instrument panel, and also in a box under the hood near the battery. There will be a diagram on the underside of each cover. Otherwise, buy a multi-pac of fuses for three or four dollars and replace each one with the correct amperage rating (they are color-coded) until the problem is corrected.

If only a rear window is not functioning, check the wiring that runs under the front door sill on that side (above the rocker panel). Older Taurus's (80's/90's)were known for this problem.

I don't know if there is one. If the wipers aren't working, you might have a problem with the multifunction switch, or the wiper motor may be gone.

how to take the door panel off of a 1997 mercury marquis

remove panelling of the door. look at the bottom for the screws attached to the glass and put them back in the holes on the metal track on the bottom. fix the rubber guides on the side so that nothing blocks the way of the glass. keep the screws on the glass, that you put in the whole, sort of loose to adjust for centering. careful, it might pop out sometimes. you might have to unscrew the bolts that hold the rubber guides up, in order to put the glass in. this depends on how messed up your window/door/galss is. once everything is on track, tighten screws on the bottom of the track were you put into the wholes, and tighten. test the window before you put everything back. adjust if neccessary, then put everything back. this was on a 99 civic hatchback dx. might be different for other cars, but this is the back idea.