Electric Windows

55h85I have the same problem on my 98 4dr accord. I have heard that it is the switch panel on the door. you can get one from the dealer or junkyard and switch out, or so i am told. not sure how much they cost

Very difficult if I remember, Did have same problem with my 72 Mark IV

Replaced motor assembly as I seem to recall it had the gear attached that drove window up and down. Very little finger room had to improvise bolt mounting. My repair lasted about 20 years (with very little use) now it is acting up again.. Finally going to try and sell the thing.

the fuse box, unlike many other cars, is located in the interior, under the drivers side dash, directly under the instrument column. theres a panel that needs to be removed. there are three torx screws, so you'll need a set of torx bits and a flat head screwdriver to remove the protective plastic screw protectors. the fuse panel is located slightly left of the steering wheel, and is mounted upside down relative to your eye.

If it's the same as a 1991 it's easy. Just take off the switch itself (it will pull out of the door with some effort) Try not to break it.. If you want to be a little more careful just pull off the entire plastic plate that contains the switch, door handle, and power lock buttons. Carefully pull from the bottom until the bottom latch comes off then keep going up with the part and insert your hand behind it so you don't break the plastic. Once you get the plate all the way off then you just unscrew the circular safety from the back of the switch take the switch out by putting pressure on the plastic piece (from behind the switch) on top of the switch and push from the back.. once you get it through the hole in the plastic (so it's inside the car) then just slide the plastic part with the wires out from the back of the switch then insert the new switch and put the pieces back on in which you took them off. I used 0 tools to do this on a 1991 so good luck. est time 5-10 mins

There is no rear window lock on the Yukon. The window only goes halfway down because that is all the room there is inside the door.

The reason is if you notice that the rear doors overlap the rear wheel housing considerably limiting the room inside the bottom part of the doors. Unlike an XL where the doors clear the rear wheels completely and are able to roll down the window all the way.

== ==

there is screw behind the door handle, remove it. slide the handle off. lift it like you are opening the door. Then slide the cover out. usually forward. remove the door pulls. Two bolts.. I think a 10mm remove them. Use a trim removal tool to pop the retainers. don't make the same mistake i did and use a screw driver. They can be gotten at most parts stores and are only $5-10. Well worth it. There is a rubber sealed plastic cover on the door. Remove it carefully. It is easy to rip. Set it off to side out of the way. Another mistake I made. That will give you access to the inside of the door. If you are not sure of why the window is having the problem most likely it is small plastic wheel that runs in the window track. It brakes. The repair is the complete assembly. Rover dose not make a repair kit to just replace the wheel. The cost of assembly is about $100.00. Other rover owner say they have seen a rebuild kit. I have not found one. Before you remove the assembly; tape the window in the up position. No tape means a good chance to break the window. If you have a digital camera, it is a good idea to take pictures of the removal process. Installation is the reverse of removal. It will take some wiggling of the assembly. to remove it. This take about two hours to complete if you have some experience. If not about 4. It is not difficult. the parts are less expensive online. do a search. several will come up. check for the best prices. Stay away from used parts, it is not worth it. This a common problem in the rover. I have done all four of mine. I have a 1996. I don't remend it but the shade tree fix is the same process. instead of replacing the tack assembly. take the plastic wheel off the metal one. Grease up both the wheel and the track. You will probably get a noise out of the mechanism, and this is only a temporary fix.By doing it yourself you can save about $3-400. Rover shops are not cheap. If you don't have one obtain the workshop manual. It comes in both the book form and a CD form. they can be found on e-bay, and at the parts supplier you choose..hope it helps. Gotta love a rover. duboff

97 JETTA GLS, Power Window, doesn't work? Hello there, greetings from California. I have had the same problem twice with my Jetta 97 GLS, on both doors, passenger and drivers side. first time was 3 years ago. I took it to the dealer and they said that the little motor that powers the lift and wire were broken, I had it change, it cost $750.00, luckily was covered by the extended warranty, funny thing a week later the opossite side window failed to work, took it back to the dealer, they said it was the same thing, had it replaced and not a problem. This Year, 2 months ago, the passenger side window started to make this grinding noise, and I thought the glass was broken, but I got the glass to go up and never went down again, so I decided not to fixt if for a while, I just tell my friends the window won't go down,if you're claustrophobic, open the sunroof... 1 month ago, the driver side window did exactly the same thing, but this one never went up so I decided to find out was was wrong. I opened the door panel, removed the speaker and gutted it all out, then I saw, the wire that goes in the plastic tube that lifts the glass was broken, all mangled and stuck on one end of the plastic tube reason why the wire wont move because is stuck to the tube. In order to bring the window up I had to cut the wire, and just as easy I could bring the glass up, now it's up and bandaged till I get it replaced. Now guess who's the claustrophobic. The motor works perfectly, so I order the parts Dorman #O3040-61579 with Application to: 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99 Jetta III GLS 4 CYL Engine: ABA Chassis: >1H-X-2 Description: Front - Left Electric W/O Motor Dorman #O3040-61580 Application: 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99 Jetta III GLS 4 CYL Engine: ABA Chassis: >1H-X-2 Description: Front - Right Electric W/O Motor Part cost $110.00 each and I'll just replace this part and I hope I'll have my problem solved . So from the experience with the door problems I've learned if the motor doesn't work you wont hear a noise at all and the motor will need to be replaced that will set you back $750 or so., if there's some noise the motor work but the window won't go up it's gotta be that the wire is damage and won't allow the lift to work. Hopefully is the latter issue so you won't have to pay such obsene amount of money just to make a window work. I'l repair mine and give you an update. Good luck Mondo

Involves removing the door car/moulding. Remove all visible screws. Three from the underside, bottom edge of the card, then one or two from the edge closest to the hinge. separate the door handle by first removing the inner dimpled section. This is done by coaxing it towards the fabric of the door card; gentle persuasion from a screwdriver may help here. Pull the door handle moulding containing the window switches up to remove. Remove the three largest screws behind the door handle that secure the card to the door pressing. Now carefully separate the card from the inner panel of the door. Lift the card to remove as the top edge sits in the window slot. Good idea here to have a tool box to sit the card on to avoid making any more disconections and lean the card against the door. The switch can now be removed. Another way, may be to use some feeler gauges by sliding them between the top and bottom edges of the switch and the outer moulding. This will save the removal of the door card but if not done carefully, may result in some unsightly witness marks on the plastic surround. Dave Brown

My manual suggests this:- First off make sure all doors and windows are shut. Lift the button (to close) and hold it for a few seconds Then release it. Next lift the button again for one second. Next Press button (to open) and keep it pressed until the window is fully open. Release. Next lift button and hold it until the window has completely closed. Now try your one-shot down then up. Just tried it on mine and it solved my problem. Mine is a focus cab but this process also worked on my 2005 5door

what about it?

possibly a rivet has come out of the window regulator mechanism. on mine there is a 10mm bolt on right hand lock side of the mechanism, which is a fine adjustment for the window travel this is accessed with the door pad removed the 10mm bolt is on an elongated hole and the bolt thread had stripped on mine. i replaced said bolt re-adjusted travel and bingo, hope this helps

See related links for complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel and complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring.

I'm not 100% sure with this model but I've had the inside door panels off several cars. + Then unscrew the armrest/handle (2 long screws). + Then run your fingers under the bottom of the panel (it is probably upholstered/padded hardboard) - this panel is usually held on by about 5 or 6 clips that pop out. + There may also be speaker wires etc if door-mounted speakers have been installed. + Then you should be able to gently slide the door panel up, so that the top ridge pops out from alonside the window glass.

Good Luck...

you have lost a main power or fusable link at the starter or near the battery Ford does not send power from the starter. First determine if the car has an accessory fuse (sometimes called power distributon box) under the hood. To find it follow the big red wires from the + battery terminal. Power can also be sent from the battery side of the solenoid. The fire plug looking thing about 2 inches tall with 3 or 4 posts (2 small and 2 large) wires on it. If you haev ANY power in the car, consider a blown ignition switch or bad switch rod in the steering column. As with any problem, start at the begining, and trace the rroute of the wires to find the fault. START at the battery and work to the box. RELENTLESS

you have to take of the door

If your Ford Focus electric window is not working, there may be an issue with the switch or the one touch down relay. If replacing the switch does not solve the problem, it could be an issue with the motor, fuses or a poor connection of the wiring between the motor and the switch. If this is something you cannot tackle yourself, it might be worth having a mechanic look at it for you.

one under the hood on right (passenger) side near to the strut support.
another one in the trunk near the battery or spare tire.
if you are looking for fuse for cigarette lighter, it is in the trunk !

Since a ground block is not well insulated, there's always the danger of a short.

The safety override switch is probably on. If not, then the motor or switch may be bad.

There are additional fuses under left side of dash near steering column

I keep the window down before I start but be careful not to break the ga=lass when drilling out the rivits. YOU NEED A LARGE RIVET TOOL FOR INSTALLATION. REMOVAL. remove door trim panel. remove the rear guide channel nuts so the assembly can be moved. with a 1/4 inch drill bit, drill out the center pins of the 4 rivets that hold the regulator to the dorr panel.unplug the electrical connector.move the regulator off the guide channels then remove from the rear access panel in the door. when removing the regulator from the motor, place a rivet in the regulator so the spring does not unwind and seriously injur you. there should be a pic of where to place it in the directions of the new motor. INSTALLATION. place the regulator in the door and engage the guides into the channels. secure the regulator to the door with rivets and a large rivet tool. plug in the electrical connector. tighten the channel nuts and install the door trim panel.

remove window handle by twisting ring on base of handle and pulling off.pop off cover plate on door handle and remove 2 outside screws on handle.remove 3 or 4 screws on the bottom of door panel,from bottom of panel push up and panel will become free.there are a few things connected to the panel that need to be removed,they all unplug from door but remember where they go and how they came apart.if you are just trying to put the window back in there are 2 holes with rubber covers,open those and roll window down until you see window clamps,put in window and do not overtighten.if you want to get to the track you need to remove window handle assembely,door latch assembely,and large plate on door.now everything is exposed,you will clearly see the track and how it comes off and on

I have a 2000 Jetta. The front passenger window fell off the tracks. I did have it repaired by the shop but later received a recall notice and was refunded my service costs.

While this information may not answer your direct question--just maybe, if your car was included in the recall--you could have it repaired with no cost.

I have a 1995 Jetta and I found the already posted answers to the above question helped me out with my problem: How do you get the window handle off from a door side panel that has manual roll up windows? The answer is that the window handle pops off by sliding the ring at the base of the window winder(handle). The mechanism is ingenious. It took a bit of finger strength, but no tools required. So don't do what I did at first, which was to try and pry the window winder off with a couple screwdrivers. I nearly broke the handle off. I was surprised at how easy the procedure was once I knew what to do.

i have a 2001 Nissan altima and the power window switch had a problem... only the drivers window had a problem. I took it to the dealor b/c there is a recall on the power window switches and they replaced all 4 for free. Not sure if the 2000 year has the same recall, but it's worth checking out.

All Toyota 4Runners back windows roll down. The first and second generation 4Runners are the only ones to have the drop down tailgate however. The last year run on the drop down tailgates was 1995. From 1996 to the present, they have liftgates.

Yes! One HP equals 749 watts. W = V . I 220 . 7 = 2.056 In reality, with 7 amps in 220 v you have more than 2 HP. By Nonô - BRAZIL Yes! One HP equals 749 watts. If you have 7 amps on 220 v, as watt = volts . amps, 220 . 7 = 1540 watts 1540 / 7498 = 2.056 HP. You have more than 2 hp. By Nonô - BRAZIL