Ford Windstar LX

By killing the water pump and ignition switch. Basically the person who's trying to still it will see a bit of a shock...It would cost you about 1000.00 to have it repaired at the dealership.

WHAT?...That answer makes no sense...The keylock has a resistor on it, that communicates with the body control module intergrated into the Instrument Cluster(speed-o) through a little wire called a data wire. The steering wheel airbag also uses this same data wire to communicate with the body control module. Anyway, the body control mod. tells the computer that the resistance amount was not verified, which in turn, the computer shuts down the fuel injecton system... All that can be done now is the 10 min. waiting period with the key on, waiting for the theft system light to stop flashing and stay lit solid.....I still can't get over that 1st answer.....wow.

.044in here for now this is for all engines v6 and v8 for 1977 .You should buy a haynes manual they are great for all of your specs and it should only cost you about $20. the manual is great!!

on the cowl ... where else

Take the door panel off there are 2 screws one is located at the bottom of door panel the other is hidden behind the button panel which contains the up/down switch for the window use a flat head screwdriver to remove the button panel. After these 2 screws are removed take the panel off by lifting the panel in an upward direction it is hooked to the door. unattach wires and then everything should be relatively easy. remove regualtor by unscrewing two bolts on top and drilling 2 rivits that at the bottom of the door. the window is riveted to the the regulator so that will also have to be drilled. Do not drill the 3 rivets where the motor is located. the motor can be removed by unscrewing 3 star type screws. to put it back together you'll need to buy replacement nuts and bolts to replace the rivets you drilled.

Goto manualfox.com, they find you Hyundai Manuals.

Well, along the way I checked all the wiring, changed some of the switches, changed two relays. I discovered that the problem was the NEW actuator I installed. It did not work correctly with the original equipment. I put the junk yard one in and everything is working perfectly. Before that I the interior lights did not work unless you turned them on manually, the system was reading the door was open all the time. I hope this saves you some time and hair. I pulled a generous amount out. Good Luck!

Yeah It's F**KED JOCK BOSS OF THE GARAGE!!

There is none it is powered by a 8 amp fuse, It is #12 in the box

I have a 2001 and this happened several times. First be patient, sometimes you have to slowly push each button, even if you put the CD in track 4, you may have to push the others. They tried to tell me it was because of burnt cds, but I eventually had to have the company replace the CD, and they retrieved the last cds that got stuck.

The correct gap for these spark plugs is 1.1mm. When you buy new plugs they should already be adjusted to the right size. My car book says to look underneath the hood at the engine specifications.

Most likely you have a worn CV joint. It is usual to replace with a rebuilt assembly the entire affected driveaxle assembly which includes the CV joints. Auto parts stores sell rebuilt driveaxle assemblies with lifetime warranty (I cashed in on one once!) for about $90. Drew

call autoparts house

Correct Year of the Truck would have helped. 1996 FORD F-250 PICKUP, 4.9L 300 cubic inch L6 MFI(Y), Ignition Spark Plug Gap .044

Usually if a seat motor is causing the fuse to blow then the motor is going bad. It could be using more amperage than it is designed to use. This will cause the fuse to blow. DO NOT be tempted to put in a bigger fuse. This can cause a fire. Good luck.

http://www.kick-fix.com/find-parts.html

on the hood is a vacuum diagram. required by law.

open hood. look up .under hood ,not down.

I belive its .35 to make sure go to a library and look it up in a chilton's manual or call your local Chevrolet dealers service department. They should know the answer for sure.

You have a headlight out.

Trouble code P0301 means: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

According to my Haynes repair manual, the spark plug gap for a 1991 Ford Explorer , 4.0 L OHV engine is .054 inches. On my 1995 the sticker under the hood shows .052 to .056 range.

According to the Clymer service manual, the spark gap should be 0.7-0.8 mm, as with most of these bikes. Actually, the required plugs (NGK BP7ES or BPR7ES, depending on who do you trust - the difference is an incorporated series resistor in the "R" plug) seem to come factory-set to that gap, but it never hurts to check, I guess...

Front end alignments are not a do-it-yourself procedure.

It requires very specialized equipment/lifts/instruments/etc.

Ford kinda hid the flashers. Look behind the steering wheel. It's that little button that's on the column going into the dash. Can't miss it

I am going to sound like others but it depends on Climate. Mobil 1 0W-40 is a good overall oil, in the cold and heat. I used 20W-50 on a 20,000km trip and it was great but not when I hit the North West Territory in Canada (near there) it was too think. Go by the user manual and yes Synthetic is the way to go.

The number on a car fuse refers to the Ampage of that fuse , each electrical component on any car has its own or shared fuse with a certain Amp rating, they are normally colour coded too and are to be replaced with one of the same Amp rating for protection.