Ford Windstar LX

If it's the 2.2 litre engine like my girlfriend's 1995 L (In North America the 95-99 are the same generation II models) then Advance Auto parts computer indicates the correct gaping is .044

you need to change your plugs of change your plug wires reguarding bank 1 lean fuel mixture you will have to change your 02sencer

Check the rotors, brake drums and shoes or pads you need roters

60 for gasoline engine

On a front door You must replace the entire door latch. Part #3B1-837-015-AS it lists for $184.26. You will need a special 12 point male bit to remove two screws visible when door is open near latch. Window track rivets must be drilled out and re-bolted near latch. This needs to be done so the inner door panel will move far enough away to slip out the latch. This job requires some patience the first time you do it. I'm sure the same applies to the rear door. Probably a different part #. Check with your local dealer. By the way I don't know the answer because I love to work on VW. I hate them, but it pays the bills!

Deatrich Automotive

The 2002 Ford Ranger in NORTH AMERICA has a 2.3 L DOHC four cylinder engine and the spark plugs are gapped at .044 inch

Get under it and look at the exhaust pipes, you will spot them easily.

http://www.a1electric.com/grandam.htm here is an excellent how to with pictures

first you cut the power wire to the alarm which should be connected to the battery and then you disconnect the battery fo at least 10 minutes

It sounds like the linkage is out of adjustment, if it is a manual linkage. If it is a hydraulic actuator, you may be low on fluid. The actuator inside the transmission could also be worn. The first thing I would check is external linkages, and stuff. Have someone press the clutch pedal, while you are under the vehicle. Look to see the moving parts. You may get lucky, and be able to adjust it yourself.If the linkages are good, you may need to take it to a transmission shop for a check up. Good luck, Steve.

See if fuse #10 in the interior fuse box is blown. If this is the case you should also be having trouble with your odometer will have dashes in it instead of numbers and your ABS light will be on.

sesackett@earthlink.net

Well I seem to have a similar situation.. I would say your 'ping' is a bit of a 'sprong' on my 95 Windstar. Further the brake pedal seems to bind, makes the sound and not engage the brakes.. I can apply more pressure and pass through the bind to engage the brakes or with some pumping of the pedal the binding dissipates and the brakes engage properly.. I was wondering if this is similar to your situation? Unfortunately I do not have the answer; I am on the 'net today looking for information! Should I find any info pf value I will post here.. Regards, Styx

Passenger side fender skirt, black ball with a single line running to it. Mounts with two screws to the skirt, one only needs to be removed, while the other is loosened and the unit has a slot it slides out from, return in that order....

change oil, oil filter, plugs, wires . etc. getting the plugs may be difficult (the rear ones. ) what i do is i remove the windshield cowl and reach down from above. some people get them from underneath

Ever notice on a humid day how water drops form on the outside of a cold glass of beer? If you cool down humid air the water content turns to liquid. Cold refrigeration lines do the same thing. Water outside your AC system has no connection to the inside of your dryer/accumulator/tin can thingy.

recover the r-134, remove the driver's side panel inside the rear hatch. Remove the rear expansion valve flush any debris out of the a/c lines and install a new rear expansion valve. Add the appropriat amt of oil back into the system. If you don't know, after flushing about 3 or 4 oz. Recharge the system with 3lb 8oz r-134. Run the a/c, look for leaks, Re-install the panel

There isn't a fuse... Just the relay.

If you have kept regular oil changes, no prep is required. Just go and put the synthetic oil in.

i would try a can of ether pray all vacuum lines one a time. when it ides up then know where the leak is.

This almost sounds like two problems or something that is causing both problems. It sounds like you have a nuetral safety switch that prevents the car from starting in gear unless the clutch is depressed. The other problem sounds like a throw out bearing problem not allowing you to shift into gear. I would check first to make sure that the clutch is being engaged when you push the pedal down. Probably the easiest way is to put the car in gear, engine off and parking brake off. Depress the pedal and see if the truck will roll. If it won't roll the clutch is not properly engaging. You will then need to figure out why. Has it become disconnected at the pedal? Is the throw out arm broken or bent? Hope this helps.

Was that the only code that caused you to replace it? Do you have it close enough to sense again.

Hey Shannon==The torque convertor solonoid is probably bad. Take it to the trans shop and have it checked out. GoodluckJoe+

The Windstar transmission could have a seal that leaks worse as the transmission gets hot and the fluid is under pressure. Go to a car wash and clean the transmission good. Watch for several days to see where the fluid is leaking from so that you can find and fix the leak.

passenger side floor board, behind glovebox, above ECU. It's a small square box with a blue relay on the side, it is labeled CONT - ASSY THEFT WARNING, unplug the brain and the relay.

that mean the clock spring is bad and you need to replace it is behin the steering wheel is a round plastic box.